Cookbook author Mimi Thorisson has spent years refining Christmas recipes for her family, blending the influences of her international background with the local traditions of the places she has lived. In an exclusive extract from her latest book, A kitchen in Italy, she shares the go-to dishes that have become part of her festive traditions.

Mimi bringing her signature Torta di Natale to the candle-lit dining table.
Mark Anthony FoxChristmas Eve with the Thorissons
The Christmas holiday period and all the feasts that go with it stretch out over several days in our house, as I’m sure they do in many other households. We are a multicultural family: I grew up in Hong Kong, which in those days followed British traditions, but my mother is French, so we always maintained a strong bond with the French ways of doing things. My husband is Icelandic and celebrates a bit differently, and we now live in Italy, where they have their own way of celebrating.

A Kitchen in Italy by Mimi Thorisson. Buy the hardback here.
In Iceland, Christmas Eve is the night of the biggest celebrations. That’s when they open the presents and have the most important meal of the holidays, while the 25th is a day for meeting the extended family. In our family, we keep this preference for the 24th. Italian tradition dictates that there should be no meat on that night. We try to stick to that rule because we like to adapt to local traditions and we love seafood.
Then we have a lineup of menus that follow in the days to come. On Christmas Day, we might stick to northern Italian traditions and have tortellini in broth and then a roast. Or we might go a little British, and I’ll make a beef Wellington. And usually, on Boxing Day, we do a Russian menu – but that’s another story.

A mix of fresh vegetables on Mimi’s kitchen table, waiting to be prepared.
Mark Antony FoxA bright start to the evening
A festive celebration cannot begin without a toast, and at the Thorissons’ it comes with a citrusy twist. As Mimi says, ‘The Bergamot Vodka Swirl is all about the fruit. Fresh, bright bergamot juice unfolds over smooth vodka, ice gently clinking, with just a hint of soda. It’s a simple cocktail, but the taste is radiant – zesty and pure.’
Ingredients (per glass)
50 ml vodkaJuice of half a fresh bergamotSparkling or still soda water (unflavoured)Ice cubesA strip of bergamot peel
Preparation
Fill a glass with iceAdd the vodkaSqueeze in the bergamot juiceTop with soda waterStir gently onceGarnish with the peel
A non-alcoholic option is de rigueur for teetotallers. Mimi’s bergamot spritz takes its cue from her favourite winter fruit and feels just as refreshing, even without the vodka.
Ingredients (per glass)
Juice of half a fresh bergamot50 ml lightly brewed chamomile or verbena tea, chilledSparkling water, unflavouredIce cubesA strip of bergamot peel or a sprig of thyme
Preparation
Fill a glass with iceAdd the chilled herbal teaStir in the bergamot juiceTop with sparkling waterSwirl once, gentlyGarnish with peel or thyme

Dining and Cooking