By NICOLE NOECHEL
I’d consider myself something of a burger connoisseur, having grown up a picky eater who craved red meat and cheese above all else. Last year, I reviewed my favorite in the area, the Deluxe at Bangos. But just because I have a preference doesn’t mean I’m not excited when I hear of another burger spot opening in town.
Case in point, RJ’s Burgers & Ice Cream Co. As I was editing my colleague Leo’s New in Town article on the subject, I knew a love affair was burgeoning. Not only does the menu include scrumptious-looking smash burgers but also seasoned fries, edible cookie dough and 32 flavors of ice cream? It’s like this concept was created with me and only me in mind.
My first trip of what I know will be many, many more began with a realization: Co-owner Robert Wilkie wasn’t lying when he told City Pulse about the “experience” RJ’s offers. On a cold, gray day, I stepped out of the gravelly snow mound-laden parking lot and into one of the most vibrant, colorful, inviting spaces I’ve had the pleasure of visiting. From the neon pink and aqua color scheme to the ‘50s diner-style seating and eccentric light fixtures, plus “The Great British Bake Off” playing on the TVs and early 2010s power ballads blasting over the PA system, I was charmed before I even tasted a bite of the food.
The burger-ordering process is similar to a certain chain known for its fresh-cut fries and free peanuts. (It’s a process I’m very familiar with since I worked at that chain during the pandemic.) You choose the number of patties and whether you want bacon, then select your cheese, toppings and sauce(s). But my double bacon burger with American cheese, grilled onions and Moo Moo sauce (RJ’s signature chipotle mayo) was above and beyond its corporate counterpart.
The patties were pressed insanely thin, allowing a crust to form over the entirety of the meat. I can see why there’s no single-patty option on the menu. The melty cheese melded into the tangy, rich sauce, providing a burst of creaminess with every bite. The bacon was nice and crunchy, and the generous helping of onions was a bomb of savory flavor. Though it may not have been great for my post-holiday waistline, this burger impressed me — I only wished I’d gotten a third patty, but there’s always next time.
And then there was the main reason RJ’s intrigued me so much: the salt and vinegar fries. You could put salt and vinegar seasoning on just about anything, and I’d eat it. Potato chips, popcorn, almonds, rice cakes … the list goes on. Once I popped the first fry into my mouth, I didn’t put the cup down until I was finished and rarely came up for air.
I’d compare the base potato to a Wendy’s fry — thin but not too thin, crispy and delectably savory. But being coated in salt and vinegar seasoning brought them up about 10 notches. I didn’t even think about using any of the ketchup packets that were given to me. These were addictive and then some.
As I walked out of the restaurant and prepared to drive back to the office to pen my review, I found myself grinning. My faith in the local food scene had been restored after a decadent December of delectable meals in faraway places. When I got back to the office, I greeted my general manager, Steve, by stating, “That was an incredible experience. I can’t wait to write about it.” When I saw Leo, I hit him with a quick “RJ’s is fire” as he walked out the door. If that doesn’t perfectly sum up what I thought about my meal, and why I’m so ecstatic to recommend RJ’s to our readers, I don’t know what would.
Dining and Cooking