Nikhil Agarwal laments the fact that Indian wine drinkers are missing out on Chile’s top-tier wines when so much more than entry-level bottles is now available
We all love Chilean wine, what’s not to love. Purity of fruit, dependable quality, and fair prices make them an easy choice. Wine enthusiasts and newbies, alike are familiar with wines from Chile, which is why Chilean labels are often poured by the glass at hotels and restaurants. The trouble is that for the most part only the entry-level range of Chilean wines has been widely available in India. It’s not surprising that we tend to think of Chile simply as a source of easy-drinking, value-for-money wines.
We need to change that perception and look at the upper end of the spectrum. Chile also produces wines of the very highest calibre — bottles that can stand shoulder to shoulder with the best in the world. More of these are now making their way into India and they deserve our attention. What frustrates me is that when people are offered two wines — one from the old world and one from the new — at the same price, they automatically assume that the old-world wine is superior.
Before we look at some of Chile’s premium wines, let’s consider a few facts. This long, narrow country in the southern hemisphere is blessed by geography: the Pacific to the west, the Andes to the east, the Antarctic to the south, and the desert to the north. The fact that it is fairly isolated has worked to its advantage. It was spared phylloxera which devastated vineyards elsewhere, which means vines still grow on their original rootstock. With its varied soils and microclimates, Chile’s many regions have near perfect conditions for winegrowing.
Chile has been producing wines for over 400 years. The Spanish conquistadors brought with them their vine cuttings followed by the introduction of French grape varieties many years later. But it was only in the late 1990s that Chilean winemakers started using steel tanks, French oak and other modern viticultural and winemaking practices to increase the quality of their wine. This ushered in a new era and gave rise to a distinctive fruity line that is very recognizable. At the Berlin Tasting of 2004, much like Steven Spurrier’s Judgement of Paris Tasting in 1976 for Napa Valley wines, top Chilean wines were tasted blind against first growths from Bordeaux and the top Super Tuscans. The results surprised many, as the scores for Chilean wines outshone the scores of famous estates from France, Italy and others.
All this should give us reason to treat Chile’s premium wines with the respect they deserve and give them their due. They deliver exceptional quality and, even at the upper end, still represent remarkable value. To overlook them when planning wine events and tastings or passing them over in favour of more familiar Bordeaux or Tuscan labels is a mistake.
There are some Chilean stunners that have been in India for some time, while others are relatively recent. Thankfully, Indian importers are beginning to expand their portfolios, and adventurous drinkers are starting to look beyond the old world. The result: some outstanding Chilean bottles are now available here.
On the right are some of my top recommendations of wines from Chile that are worth seeking out.
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