Seasoned businessman and restaurateur Johnlu Koa elevates the art of dining and baking bread, the French way, with the opening of the newest branch of Lartizan at S Maison. Only the finest ingredients will do for this businessman-restaurateur who one day dreams of earning a Michelin star for his efforts.
BY RUTH L. NAVARRA
Johnlu Koa tears into a sourdough loaf with gusto. His eyes light up with a scientist’s focus as he explains the 36-hour fermentation behind it to family and friends who attended the grand launch of Lartizan at S Maison in Pasay City.
All his love for bread is on full display as he proudly talks about the process that transforms simple ingredients such as flour, salt and yeast into something magical and delicious. Later, he would describe it to PeopleAsia as alchemy — a process of turning dust (flour) into gold.
In many ways, that is what he has done with all the ideas and opportunities that come to him. Lartizan, for example, came to him as an unexpected challenge. One day in the early 2000s, while standing outside a branch of French Baker at SM Megamall, he overheard the conversation of three women.
“One was saying, ‘this is French Baker.’ The other one said, ‘No, it’s not French enough,’” he shared with PeopleAsia. Instead of getting offended, Johnlu thought that this was an opportunity to create a brand that would resonate with people who have actually experienced French bakeries — offering something distinct from French Baker, which he also owns.
People magnet
It’s easy to see why his friends include him in their business ventures. Johnlu naturally attracts people. His approachable personality makes him instantly likable. He arrives at the venue in full Emporio Armani, wearing a handmade boutonnière crafted by a local artisan and available at Moressi, a high-end fashion boutique also in S Maison, owned by his beautiful wife, Alou. He proudly explains how the piece is fashioned from repurposed textile, adding a thoughtful and fun touch to his look.
Throughout the event, he mingles with guests effortlessly, moving from one table to another and keeping the mood lively. He would get up from his seat at the presidential table to scan the room, making sure everyone was being served properly. He greets everyone in his speech — family, friends and every guest present. He even dances with influencers and joins them in their TikTok videos.
Full French fine-dining concept
(FROM LEFT) A total feast for the senses: truffle caesar salad, tenderloin roast with roasted vegetable slides in peppercorn sauce, seafood bisque
Most Filipinos encounter their first croissant, pain au chocolat, or Danish pastry at French Baker; but at Lartizan, they discover madeleines, chocolate tarts and artisanal bread that define a more traditional French boulangerie experience. Lartizan appeals to expatriates as well as to Filipinos familiar with—and in search of—authentic French dining experiences.
“Thirteen years ago, almost 90 percent of my clients were foreigners. They kind of owned the place. They feel an affinity with the brand. Until now, they ask us to expand our Serendra branch,” he said.
The S Maison Lartizan is the fourth branch to offer a full French fine-dining concept and his ninth overall as a boulangerie. Located on the ground floor of S Maison in Pasay City, the branch sits in an open space designed to evoke a Parisian café.
Plants, glass and wrought-iron accents outline the perimeter, creating a pocket of intimacy, while tables stationed along the edge offer prime spots for people-watching or to simply be seen. The restroom is ingeniously tucked inside what appears to be a brick post.
The goal is to transport diners to Paris, thanks to the meticulous details woven into the space. The refinement shows in the pristine white tablecloth, napkins embroidered with the Lartizan in S Maison name and precise fold held in place by a square napkin ring. A waiter unfolds it on your lap as your order is brought to the table.
Food arrives on Kütahya Porselen plates featuring a dimpled texture, while the salt-and-pepper shakers come in a silver polished finish. Even the folded paper napkin comes tucked in a small box that looks like a jewelry box.
“I have champagne, I have Renoir, I have Dom Pérignon, I have Moët Chandon within the mall, and they’re not priced very expensive. I don’t believe in one-shot dinners,” he said. He likes it when people discover Lartizan, and he makes sure that their experience is memorable enough for them to come back.
His son, Jonard, also takes pride in the care and intention behind every element of the space. The S Maison branch is where he actively helps with designing.
“We want to put that personal touch into every aspect of the store. Whether it’s from the service, to the silverware, to the pictures that we hang on our walls,” he said.
Lartizan founder and CEO Johnlu Koa
Jonard’s photos of Paris are framed and hung on the brick walls of the restaurant. They are in black and white, revealing the underbelly of the Eiffel Tower, the rhythm of Parisian streets and the people who move through them. He also helps select the other pieces of décor on the walls, including the inlaid serving trays and the vintage coffee pots.
His mom, Alou, adds that Jonard’s input extended to the restaurant’s mood lighting, creating an ambiance that resonates strongly with Gen Z diners.
The difference in their latest branch compared to the existing ones is the addition of a bar. Johnlu has a genius for segmenting his target market with precision. The bar is a way to elevate the brand to its next level.
Johnlu chose S Maison as the location for the next branch in preparation for the future. Vice chair of SM Investments Corp. Tessie Sy-Coson shared the vision with him for how the area would evolve into a more cosmopolitan destination. He wanted Lartizan to be part of that rising energy.
During the grand launch, the restaurant showcased several dishes from the menu, including the chicken vol-au-vent — made with chicken, mushrooms, and a rich, creamy sauce — which is a father-and-son favorite. Another family favorite is the seafood bisque, which consists of an indulgent mix of lobster and shrimp. Johnlu is equally proud to offer fresh oysters, insisting they be served only at their highest quality.
Guests are treated to chicken liver pâté and foie gras, along with salmon mousse topped with caviar, all served with unlimited freshly baked bread for the appetizers. The truffle caesar salad arrives inside a bread bowl, its earthy aroma mingling perfectly with the crusty shell of the bread. The turbot in garlic cream served with vegetable risoni is a standout.
The fish is apparently prized in French cuisine. It is known for its mild flavor and firm yet silky texture. It flakes marvelously at the touch of our fork.
In between the mains, a palate cleanser is served in the form of Limoncello Sorbet, presented inside a frozen lemon shell. It is bright, refreshing and charming.
The tenderloin roast makes an appearance. It is easy to slice and is complemented by peppercorn sauce and roasted vegetables. The meal ends with several offerings, starting with the classic French dessert, crêpe suzette, its warm orange sauce balanced by a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
In France, meals traditionally end not with dessert but with a cheese course, and that evening’s selection includes camembert, comté and roquefort. Of course, bread is in abundance that night, along with slices of beurre d’isigny.
Looking ahead, Johnlu makes no secret of the fact that he dreams of earning a Michelin nod someday. He believes Lartizan is already operating at a standard worthy of that recognition, especially since his brands use local flour instead of importing it.
The name Lartizan is a play on the word L’artisan, but Johnlu also revealed that each letter represents luck in numerology. Perhaps good fortune plays a part in the chain’s success, but one cannot discount the mastery and dedication its creator has poured into creating the exceptional bread that defines his brand.
Photography by RENJIE TOLENTINO
Art direction by DEXTER FRANCIS DE VERA
Dining and Cooking