During the cold winter months, most of us swap salads for warm and nourishing fare – Joanna Leggett takes us on a tour of some of France’s finest comfort foods…
As the days become shorter and A temperatures drop -even here in France we yearn for rich, warming, unctuous food; at least, I do. Walking into a restaurant or coming home to the scent of simmering casseroles or luscious baking is one of the best things about winter, like a big hug And when it comes to ‘comfort food’, does any other country do it better? That said, the notion of ‘comfort’ is not a term commonly used for food in France-after all, every meal is an occasion full of seasonal interest and made using the freshest of ingredients available.
Of course, it’s customary to start every meal with soup here in restaurants, a bowl is often placed on the table so customers can serve themselves. Soup is just the prelude to the plat du jour. One of my favourite memories of Paris was walking along the banks of the Seine on a winter’s day. The sky was blue, the river looked amazing while we remained in a sunny sheltered spot, then we turned a corner into the wind and realised warmth and suitable sustenance were needed.
Off a narrow street, leading up towards St-Germain-des-Prés, we spotted a billboard outside a pretty bistro promoting plats du jour headed by soupe à l’oignon, A couple of minutes later, we were seated by the window and had ordered. Enormous steaming bowls of soup arrived laden with bubbling cheese and croutons-divine. Our waiter assured us the soup was the chef’s own recipe and included copious quantities of white wine. Delicious, memorable, true comfort food!
Other seasonal ‘comfort’ soups include Garbure from Gascony made with beans, cabbage and ham hock; full of seasonal vegetables and intentionally thick, it’s said to be ready when the ladle stands upright in the pot! Classic French lentil soup is hearty, filling and ideal for supper, but it’s soupe paysanne that takes centre stage on many French family tables in winter. Laden with cabbage, leek, carrots and smoked port sausage in broth, it warms the cockles of your heart. Another favourite is watercress soupe de cresson. I’ve fond memories of consuming this when visiting Champagne, its peppery flavour really warms the soul. Watercress is best grown in freshwater streams over limestone, so perhaps it’s small wonder it is grown around here.
An honourable mention has to go to Provençal garlic soup (aïgo boulido). Widely consumed in the south of France to aid digestion or ward off winter ills, it’s also believed to cure hangovers. The broth is made of garlic and sage with eggs. Powerful stuff-just duck when you talk to anyone!
Dining and Cooking