Carpe Wine: The 1855 Classification

Wine can be confusing, especially when it comes to the laws and classifications around it. In the United States, they’re relatively straightforward — we have the American Viticultural Area (AVA) classification, federally designated wine regions defined by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). Our system requires at least 85 percent of a wine to come from its designated AVA. Individual states might add extra requirements (Oregon, for example, has stricter percentage mandates), but compared to France’s labyrinth of wine laws and classifications, American regulations are a breeze. It’s every wine student’s favorite chapter — the easiest one to study. Trust me on this; I’m currently neck-deep in prep for my next wine certification.

I’m not going to attempt summarizing French wine law here. It would be impossible to do it justice, and frankly, it wouldn’t be very interesting. Instead, I want to share a wine history story about Napoleon III and how he created the most famous wine classification system in Bordeaux — one that, surprisingly, had little to do with actual quality and still impacts the wine industry to this day.

The 1855 classification

The year was 1855, and Paris was preparing to host the Universal Exposition — the World’s Fair of its day. Emperor Napoleon III wanted France’s greatest treasure showcased on the global stage: wine. He tasked Bordeaux’s Chamber of Commerce, more of an organization of wine merchants at the time, with creating a classification of the region’s finest.

Their list featured red wine châteaux from the Left Bank’s Médoc appellation, plus châteaux in Sauternes and Barsac in Bordeaux’s southern reaches that were producing white wines. The concept of wine classifications had officially been born.

Here’s the surprising part: the list/rankings were based entirely on market price. That’s it. No tasting panels, no blind evaluations, no sommelier committees debating flavor profiles. The Chamber simply assumed that price equaled quality — the more expensive the wine, the better it must be.

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The 1855 Classification divides wines into five quality tiers, known as “crus” or growths. First growth wines are considered the pinnacle — the most prestigious and sought-after — while fifth growth wines occupy the bottom rung. But here’s the reality: these rankings simply listed wines from most expensive to least expensive, with first growths commanding the highest prices and fifth growths the lowest.

The first growths read like a who’s who of wine royalty: Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Haut-Brion and Château Mouton Rothschild. These aren’t just wines — they’re now legends in liquid form, the bottles that collectors obsess over and enthusiasts dream about sipping. (You have to wonder if they really are that good or is it the 1855 Classification that makes you think that.)

Out of all the estates in Bordeaux, only 58 made the cut for the 1855 Classification. “Peeved” doesn’t even begin to cover the reaction. The snub was glaring: only châteaux from appellations of the Médoc, Sauternes and Barsac were included. What about the renowned estates in Graves and Saint-Émilion?

The excluded châteaux later created their own classification systems. The Médoc developed the Cru Bourgeois system with three ascending tiers: Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. Unlike the 1855 Classification, this one is reviewed every five years to keep estates on their toes. Graves and Saint-Émilion followed suit with their own individual classifications, proving that if you can’t join the club, you might as well start your own.

Again, thank you Napoleon III — as if understanding French wine wasn’t complicated enough.

Since the 1855 Classification there have been a lot of changes to the châteaux on the list — names, owners, vineyards, quality of the wine — but there has only been one change to the list in the 171 years it has been in existence. In 1973 Château Mouton Rothschild moved from 2nd Growth to 1st Growth. While the list started with 58 châteaux, today it’s at 61. Owners have changed and vineyards have been divided up but if an owner can show their vineyards where part of the original list, they can use the 1855 Classification.

The controversy that was that of the original 1855 list remains to this day. I heard all about it the last time I was in Bordeaux by multiple wineries and tour guides. They were of course ones that did not make the list … So, are the 1855 Classification wines actually better?

I have sipped a few that dub the 1855 Classification, Château CANTEMERLE is one of my favorites and Château Lafite Rothschild really is all that. But, so is Château Beaumont, a Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and several Saint-Émilion estates I get excited about when I see them at the local wine shops. Here’s the thing: wines in the 1855 Classification can run anywhere from $50 to thousands of dollars, while wines in the Cru Bourgeois system and Saint-Émilion tend to be far more wallet-friendly.

The truth? The 1855 Classification opened doors for incredible wines, but it also left plenty of excellence on the outside looking in. After 171 years, the list still carries prestige — and still sparks debate. Which is perhaps the most French thing about it. Whether you’re popping a first growth or a Cru Bourgeois, you’re tasting a piece of history. The real question isn’t which classification is “better,” but rather: what’s in your glass tonight?

Elaine Schoch is an award-winning travel writer and wine judge, certified by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 2, and a certified American Wine Expert. She is also the editor at Carpe Travel, a content site focused on wine travel. You can follow her wine 101 and sipping adventures on Carpe Travel or Instagram.