Deliz
You can’t throw a pork chop without hitting a steakhouse in Chicago.
Most of the newer and future establishments have a global twist (like the forthcoming Susu, which will be a steakhouse through a Middle Eastern lens). However, Dēliz Italian Steakhouse (in Wicker Park) has some old-school style—but it also offers some stunning contemporary takes, resulting in one of the top spots I’ve visited in this relatively new year.
Now, I have to start by saying that Dēliz is very much an adult establishment. It’s not as if there are burlesque shows, but everything from the music to the lush, dark decor pretty much says, “No kiddies!” (However, the leopard-print chairs at the booths might have been the only mishit of the evening.)
But everything else was a hit. Regarding the starters, the pan brioche might be the best bread I’ve tasted in a long time—it tasted like butter and love. (You know a place is great when you would return just for the bread. However, that’s the point: There’s no “just” at Dēliz; everything is prepared with care.) The wagyu tartare (with wagyu tallow aioli, truffle vinaigrette and grilled ciabatta) was also delicious, as were the wedge salad and caviar bites. In addition, the yellowtail crudo was sublimely acidic.
By the way, Dēliz is one of only 16 restaurants across the country to use chocolate-fed wagyu from the Mayura Station program. I initially thought this meant the meat might have hints of Hershey’s; however, the chocolate that’s mixed in the meal of the cow in the last stages of its life actually affects the meat’s texture and marbling.
Steak frites at Deliz. Photo by Andrew Davis
The entrees were similarly amazing. The chicken parm practically entranced my dinner guest, the halibut was tasty and flaky, and the steak frites provided new life to what is a standard restaurant dish. And even the desserts impressed: My friend actually took the tiramisu home because he said he rarely encounters a well-made version of the dessert. There are also cookies and sorbet, but the tiramisu was clearly the darling of the sweets.
Dēliz may expand to brunch down the road. However, for now, enjoy what it has to offer at dinnertime. You will not be disappointed.
Grade: A-
DeNucci’s
Weather conditions are currently tolerable. However, it was recently so cold that I swore I saw a polar bear with a space heater.
I mention those frigid conditions because, despite the omnipresence of icy sidewalks and very low temperatures, the Lincoln Park location of DeNucci’s was still packed. This not only attests to its reputation as a neighborhood spot—it’s also a testament to its food. (BTW, DeNucci’s is also in Highland Park and Hinsdale, with the latter site just opening recently.)
DeNucci’s is refreshingly no-frills, down to its enticing menu offerings. Apps include warm garlic knots, grilled and fried calamari, and cacio e pepe arancini—and the calamari was wonderful. I could’ve eaten a bowl of it.
Pasta options include the spicy crab campanelle, tagliatelle bolognese and a tantalizing orecchiette pugliese that wasn’t as spicy as I feared. And my friend absolutely loved the eggplant parm that’s just one of the mains at DeNucci’s alongside selections such as broiled chicken and peppers, branzino piccata and shrimp scampi oreganata.
Margherita tavern-style pizza at DeNucci’s. Photo by Andrew Davis
And then, of course, DeNucci’s has pizza, pizza and more pizza. On Mondays, the spot offers Chicago tavern-style pies so we opted for a margherita version that was tasty and crisp—a solid performer, as some would say. But there are white and red pizzas that are served throughout the week and there is even a gluten-free Sicilian-style pie.
Finish your meal with one of several delectable desserts, including a pistachio blondie sundae, amaretto tiramisu, sorbet or a (Sicilian) cannolo (the singular of cannoli, of course).
As for the drink, the Moscow Mule was … okay. Maybe it needed to be served in a copper vessel. However, there’s an impressive wine list as well as cocktails such as the Staten Island Iced Tea (quattro amari, luxardo amaretto, lemon, prosecco and Coke) and the Italian Lemonade (vodka, orangecello and fresh-squeezed lemonade).
Called a “red-sauce joint,” DeNucci’s is one of those places you’ll find yourself visiting again and again, thanks to friendly service and inviting menu options. I just hope that the next time I visit, it will at least be in the 30s outside.
Grade: B+
The Dawson’s CRW menu
Burrata and Brussels sprouts at The Dawson. Photo by Andrew Davis
—As you probably know, hundreds of dining spots are taking part in Chicago Restaurant Week (CRW), which runs through Feb. 8.
So I checked out the CRW menu at the River West spot The Dawson. While the outdoor conditions were frigid—and the restaurant’s first floor wasn’t exactly warm—the CRW menu made braving both a worthwhile endeavor.
The CRW dinner (three courses for $60) includes appetizer choices such as wood-fired Chistorra sausages with potatoes and spicy aioli; hamachi ceviche; and an absolutely delightful burrata and Brussels tartine. Entree options include a sizzling wagyu served on a salt block as well as mushroom pappardelle and wood-fired trout that came with much-needed mint-orange chimichurri. Desserts are a decadent Lisbon cake (dark chocolate cake with chocolate mousse) and a light tropical fruit meringue.
Grade: B+
(Note: There’s also a $30 three-course brunch with items like jalapeno cheddar biscuits, duck enchiladas and a chocolate croissant donut.)
Note: SAVOR with Andrew visits are pre-arranged, unless otherwise indicated.
Note: No reproduction of this column is permitted under any circumstances without the express prior written permission of the columnist.
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