When it comes to filling the wine rack for February, there should be a balance of nurturing bottles that lean into the dreary and the cold, and vibrant ones that contrast the weather outside and speak of spring. What better way to toast the gradual lengthening of daylight while coping with the persistent cold?
A mix of recommendations also comes in handy for anyone shopping for a wine-loving valentine.
There are six distinctive and delightful reds featured this week that are ideal companions for wintry meals, including a favourite Chianti Classico label from Isole e Olena.
When it comes refreshment, sparkling wine is always welcome. The current release of Gold Label Brut maintains Blue Mountain’s position as one of Canada’s best value bubbly producers, while another Okanagan cellar has introduced a new low alcohol rosé sparkler that makes a tremendous first impression.
Banfi Chianti Classico 2022 (Italy), $22.95
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Rating: 88
Banfi offers a more rustic take on Tuscany, which might mean traditional for anyone with a taste for old-school-style savoury flavours and gripping tannins. Sangiovese character shines through and through in a wine that is best enjoyed at a table with meat on the menu. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Bell’Aja Bolgheri 2022 (Italy), $39.95
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Rating: 91
One of the properties controlled by San Felice, Bell’Aja comes from a 15-hectare property in Bolgheri near the Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s a merlot-based red (with 5 per cent cabernet sauvignon) with sweet liqueur-like fruit flavours that are focused and fresh. Time in the glass brings out more spicy character. A modern take on Italian wine with plenty of depth and power. This has 14 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2033. Available at the above price in Ontario, $47.45 in British Columbia (Tag Liquor Stores).
Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut (Canada), $28
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Rating: 91
Sparkling wine has been a major focus at family-owned Blue Mountain since its inception in 1991. The Gold Label is one of four bubblies in the portfolio and is based on pinot noir and chardonnay from the winery’s vineyards in Okanagan Falls. The style is richly textured and complex, with bright citrus and apple flavours layered with toast and nutty notes. This has 12 per cent ABV and 8 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price direct, bluemountainwinery.com, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $36.99 in Saskatchewan (Co-op Liquor), $38.99 in Manitoba (Kensington Wine Market).
Cap Royal Rouge Bordeaux Supérieur 2022 (France), $19.95
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Rating: 89
Made by Pierre Matignon, technical director of Château Pichon Baron, Cap Royal is a ripe and savoury red wine that offers classic Bordeaux character. Mostly merlot with 30 per cent cabernet sauvignon, this offers black currant, spice and leafy notes as part of its expressive character. This has 12.6 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Vegan. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, $28.98 in British Columbia (Everything Wine).
Evolve Light Sparkles 2025 (Canada), $24.99
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Rating: 88
Part of a new range of no- and low-alcohol products from Evolve, this convincing rosé blends chardonnay and pinot noir for a fizzy wine with pure red fruit flavours tempered by citrussy acidity. Perhaps fermentation in concrete is part of the secret to unlocking such delightful flavours at a lower alcohol level? I’m interested to see how this program develops as this is an extremely useful and versatile bottle to have on hand. This has 7 per cent ABV and 8 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available direct, timewines.ca.
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2022 (Italy), $51.95
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Rating: 93
Collectors know Isole e Olena as a consistent producer of Chianti Classico with modern-meets-traditional character. The current vintage of its classic label offers a mix of ripe strawberry and plummy flavours with peppery spice and savoury notes adding complexity. This balanced and flavourful red wine shows some warmth on the finish owing to the ripeness of the vintage but maintains its structure and freshness. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2035. Available at the above price in Ontario, $56.99 in British Columbia ($51.99 until Feb. 23), various prices in Alberta, $49.75 in Quebec, $52.09 in Nova Scotia.
Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Selection Non-Alcoholic Sauvignon Blanc (Canada), $11.49
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Rating: 86
The aromatic character of sauvignon blanc makes it the best contender for convincing low- and no-alcohol wines. Made from a blend of international and domestic grapes, this offers convincing tropical, citrus and honeyed flavours with a rounded texture that appeals. This has 0.5 per cent ABV. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various price in British Columbia and Alberta, $12.99 in New Brunswick, $13.99 in Prince Edward Island, $14.75 in Newfoundland.
JoieFarm En Famille Pinot Noir 2022 (Canada), $36.43
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Rating: 90
This expressive pinot noir is a blend of grapes grown in Okanagan Falls and Naramata Bench. The finished wine offers a personality that’s fruity, spicy and floral in turns, resulting in an appealing mid-weight red with an attractive core of cherry/berry fruit and smooth texture. Ripe tannins and bright acidity contribute structure and length to the proceedings, with some stony notes on the lingering finish that maintain your interest. This has 12.6 per cent ABV and 1.69 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, joiefarm.com.
Marqués de la Concordia Lagunilla Reserva 2018 (Spain), $18.95
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Rating: 90
Marqués de la Concordia was founded in 1885 in the high-altitude Rioja Alta region but is clearly keeping up with the times. This tempranillo and garnacha blend presents a core of ripe berry fruit that’s enhanced by floral and oak-derived spice and leather notes. This medium-bodied red is showing beautiful balance and integration as part of its enticing and approachable character. Serious value at this price. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Dining and Cooking