B. Clair Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes 2023

Today I made it home from the Norwegian state wine monopoly’s Burgundy release. That meant two nights sleeping in the car and spending the daytime hours queued outside the store. Naturally, I wanted to open something right away, and Bruno Clair felt like the right choice.

I’ve heard a lot of mixed opinions about the 2023 vintage. Some say it’s a warm year, with lower acidity and a risk of imbalance. Others say it’s very approachable and fruit-forward, and that the reds benefited more than the whites. I was curious to see where this would land.

Tasting notes:

Deep and a little dark red with a little purple.

On the nose: lots of red fruit with a touch of oak. Sweet cherry, strawberries, some minerality, and maybe a hint of reduction. With air, the fruit gets sweeter and the oak shifts slightly toward vanilla.

On the palate: cherry takes the lead, followed by strawberry and a note of slåpe (sloe). The tannins are smooth but present, and together with the acidity that’s there, the wine still has a nice sense of structure and shape. The acidity is medium, and in my opinion feels fresh.

Overall, I absolutely love this. Very drinkable, lots of fruit, and just plain enjoyable but still with some structure. It may not have razor-sharp acidity, but even so, it’s really good.