As one of the more understated restaurants receiving their first MICHELIN Star in 2026, it would be tempting to overlook Forest Avenue in favour of flashier, more eye-catching venues. But if you were to ask me to return to a restaurant again and again, somewhere I could have at the end of my road, Forest Avenue would be near the top of my list. John and Sandy Wyer have created a very likeable, well-run restaurant with cooking that never shows off but simply excels in its quiet quality. Having also received a Bib Gourmand award for the good value cooking at their sister operation, Forêt, the Wyers are doing great things for the Dublin dining scene.
A Well-Oiled Machine As I arrived at the restaurant, I had high expectations having previously enjoyed dining at their loveable French bistro, Forêt. Situated in a quieter part of the city, Forest Avenue feels like a particularly excellent version of your usual neighbourhood restaurant, and this relaxed quality instantly puts you at ease.
I was warmly welcomed and given a table by the semi-open kitchen. The light, airy restaurant is divided into multiple spaces (the mezzanine is perfect for private parties) and I loved this spot, as I always enjoy the buzz of watching chefs at work. The restaurant has a minimalistic, almost industrial feel, with these tables nearest the kitchen being the most intimate.
The mezzanine at Forest Avenue, ideal for private parties. © RyanandRobert/Forest Avenue
The super-efficient service is led by Sandy, who ensures everything runs like clockwork. She takes time to engage with her guests and brings a personal touch to proceedings. She has a calming influence over the team and I could see the same calmness in John as he worked in the kitchen. For one course, he came out and served it to diners himself. The pair have fostered a wonderfully relaxed environment here.
The Power of ‘Less is More’ Just as there is a lack of showiness to the dining room, John Wyer’s cooking is similarly understated. What struck me most was the confidence his dishes conveyed. The restraint involved in serving a high-quality piece of fish, for instance, cooked to perfection and aided by minimal garnish, is a great skill – and it’s something Wyer has mastered. Put simply, he has total trust in the quality of his ingredients.
Just because there was a clean unfussiness to the dishes did not mean there was not great ability involved in their construction. When there are fewer components in a dish, each one has to be executed superbly, and they have to work in total harmony. Wyer’s classical techniques underpinned every dish, while his balancing of flavours was particularly impressive. Each element on the plate was distinct and identifiable, whilst also working together to create a stronger whole.
John Wyer’s excellently balanced scallop and cod dishes, which showcased superb natural flavours. © Sandy Wyer/Forest Avenue
Stand-Out Dishes I opted for the tasting menu, which began with a series of well-crafted snacks, followed by an excellent bread course, consisting of fresh sourdough with whipped butter and a deeply flavoured onion, pine nut and truffle soup. After this were four dishes that maintained the high level and that I would happily have eaten all over again. Hand-Dived Scallop Crudo, Organic Green Tomato, Pear, Horseradish The finely sliced scallop was plump, fresh and had a nice buttery quality. It sat in a light green tomato and pear sauce which didn’t overpower the scallop and provided a great example of Wyer’s skill at balancing flavours, walking a tightrope of fruity and acidic tones. Iced horseradish ‘snow’ was delicate and creamy, with just the right amount of heat. Cod, Celeriac Beurre Blanc, Organic Leeks, Hazelnut This highlight came in two parts. First up was a beautifully cooked piece of lightly flaky cod loin with a fine julienne of celeriac and finely chopped mushroom duxelles. A slice of slow-cooked leek blended wonderfully with the classic beurre blanc sauce, which was the perfect consistency and contained finely chopped hazelnuts for a nutty finish. This was followed by the cod belly, which had been given the tempura treatment with a light, crisp batter. This was served with sushi rice, crab meat and an exemplary sauce made with vadouvan spices.
The suckling pig and brown sugar pudding dishes that our Inspector enjoyed. © Sandy Wyer/Forest Avenue
Suckling Pig, Trompette, Beetroot The high quality of the suckling pig shone through in its delicious meaty flavour. It was served with two sauces, one cream-based and the other a rich, glossy jus. To add depth and balance to the dish, pickled elderberries were included for a hint of acidity, while trompette mushrooms offered earthiness. On the side was a golden puff pastry ‘pie’ filled with finely chopped pork shoulder and black pudding, which proved a great accompaniment for the dish. Milk Ice Cream, Brown Sugar Pudding, Shiitake & Buckwheat Custard At the base of this triumphant dessert was the brown sugar pudding – a sponge flecked with dates that was perfect for the sweet toothed. On top was a quenelle of milk ice cream that again showed the kitchen’s fine craft: it was superbly smooth in texture and delicate in flavour, tempering the overt sweetness of the sponge. A lightly frothed shiitake and buckwheat custard added subtle umami notes, bringing further depth to the dish.
Inspector’s TipsWhile the tasting menu I enjoyed is the only option for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays, if you want a lighter and slightly more affordable meal, then come on Wednesday or Thursday evenings for the three-course menu. However, the full tasting experience is the best way to sample John Wyer’s full talents.If you’re given a choice of tables, go for one in front of the semi-open kitchen. There’s a cosier feel to this part of the room, tucked under the mezzanine, and it’s always fun to watch the chefs in action.Make the most of your trip to Dublin by staying for a few nights and soaking up the buzz of the city. For accommodation, we’d recommend a room at The Wilder Townhouse. This MICHELIN-Key hotel is just a short walk from Forest Avenue and seamlessly blends Victorian period details with modern design.
Hero Image: John Wyer, chef-owner of Forest Avenue, Dublin’s new MICHELIN-Star restaurant. © David McClelland/Forest Avenue
Dining and Cooking