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Jacopo Degli Esposti grew up in Venice, where watching his Nonna cook with just a handful of ingredients laid the foundation for an ingredient-first philosophy. In this Crumb Wire profile, the La Madonna Executive Chef shares how years in Paris, combined with his Italian roots, shape the approach he brings to his kitchen.
What first sparked your love for food, and how did you get your start in the industry?
It started back home in Venice. Being Italian, food was a core part of my life from the start. Some of my earliest memories were seeing my Nonna create the most delicious dishes out of just a few ingredients – often just eggs, flour, parmesan and tomatoes picked from the garden.
As a teenager, I started working summer shifts in Venetian kitchens while I was still studying at the U.Follador – A.De Rossi institute.
Those early days taught me the ingredient-first philosophy that I still carry with me today and showcase at La Madonna.
What’s been your journey so far – from your first job to where you are now?
It’s been a bit of a whirlwind. I left Italy at 19 for Australia, then spent time travelling through Japan and India to see how other cultures handle flavour.
But the real schooling happened in Paris at Joël Robuchon’s Étoile and Restaurant Guy Savoy. After a stint reopening Robuchon in St. Barth, I felt drawn back to Australia.
Now, I’m heading up the kitchen at La Madonna in Melbourne, and it feels like the perfect place to bring all those pieces together.
What have been some of your greatest achievements and challenges along the way?
Working in some of the most disciplined kitchens in the world has been my biggest challenge. Paris taught me how demanding excellence really is, both mentally and physically.
My single proudest moment was Restaurant Guy Savoy being named the best restaurant in the world by La Liste in 2023.
Today, shaping my own culinary identity at La Madonna feels like a particularly rewarding chapter in my life and I’m proud of what I’ve achieved and where it’s going.
Outside your property/properties, what are your current favourite food joints?
The Italian restaurant Osteria Ilaria on Little Bourke Street in Melbourne is one of my favourite lunch spots. The food has a simple yet refined flavour, which is just the way I like it.
For dinner, Philippe on Collins Street has great traditional French cuisine. It reminds me of the Bouchon Lyonnais restaurants in Lyon, France, with their hearty and rustic vibe.
Which chefs and cuisines inspire you most – past or present?
Joël Robuchon has been my biggest culinary inspiration. I am still guided by his famous mantra: “simple cooking is the most complicated thing there is”.
I always approach high-quality ingredients in a very technical yet simple way to unlock the best flavours.
In terms of cuisines, because of its professional impact on my life and techniques as a chef, French cuisine is my favourite. But my Italian roots still own my heart.
How do you think Australia’s food culture has evolved in recent years?
It’s become much more structured but also more adventurous. There is a massive appreciation for produce here that rivals Europe. For instance, the quality of the tuna and beef in Australia is something you can only dream about in Europe.
Australia gives me the perfect canvas to use advanced techniques on incredibly diverse ingredients, which is where the magic happens.
Any exciting food trends you’ve tried at home – or sneaked onto the menu?
While it can initially raise eyebrows, tongue is becoming increasingly popular on the dining scene, and our Tongue Assoluto with Mayura Station Wagyu has been delighting our guests.
Figs are increasingly taking centre stage, and they will be woven into the Autumn menu at La Madonna. The delicate sweetness of figs is incredibly versatile, working just as well with rich meat and jus as it does with a beautiful piece of fish.
I also take every opportunity to integrate my French training into Italian classics. For example, our Ravioli à la Bordelaise. Traditionally, Bordelaise is this deep, complex French sauce for beef. We’ve put that inside the ravioli. It’s a fusion of my two worlds, one bite that’s pure French technique wrapped in an Italian hug.
And finally, what do you love doing when you’re not in the kitchen/at the venue?
I love anything adrenaline-packed. Specifically, I enjoy skiing and am also going for my skydiving licence.
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