From Salerno it ferries us to the Turkish port of Kusadasi, where we journey into hills weighted with fruit trees: peaches, pomegranates, cherries, black mulberries. In the village of Sirince, Kemal Gurbuz of Artemis Wine House sells the wine he’s made from this bounty. Peach is most popular – the region is famed for this summer fruit. But the cherry has a value-for-money kick.

Dining and Cooking