

Hosted a Chateau Meyney vertical at my place recently, to introduce my friends to good affordable Bordeaux and how aging and airing out a wine can change its characteristics. As one of my favorite Bordeaux wines at my price point, I ended up deciding to do this when I tracked down the 1988 and 2003 for less than $50/ea, giving me the idea to do a vertical tasting. Paired with charcuterie meats, cheeses, roasted potatoes, meatballs. All stored at 55, but I opened and presented them as follows. Quick notes from me –
Up first, popped and poured a bit of the 2018 for everyone. Still very young, as expected – strong tannic and acid backbone here, this will age wonderfully. Black fruit – plum and blackcurrant, baking spice – vanilla, nutmeg. The remaining half of the bottle I put in a decanter to save for later.
Second, the 2003. Also popped and poured (although if I was doing this myself, I wouldβve aired it out for two hours, but alas). This is my ideal window for the Bordeaux in my price point – that 15-25 year range I find just SINGS. Even without decanting, the elements were in harmony – neither the alcohol, tannins or acidity were yelling out for my attention. Still plenty of blackberries and blackcurrant, faint herbs, that wonderful sous bois note I chase, a forest-after-a-fresh-rainfall note. Wonderful stuff, and the group agreed. Intact cork, no notable bricking at all at the rim. My favorite.
Onto the 1988. Popped and poured. Hello, pyrazines! First whiff was a punch of jalapeΓ±o, Cajun seasoning, bell pepper. That caught my people off guard, had to explain that. After a few minutes, that scent blew off. Notable copper hue to the rim, plenty of sediment in the bottle, but I tell you what, whatever provenance this had before getting to me – it was excellent! Still had plenty of fruit, but far more earth, cigar, tobacco, smoke to it – really mellow tannins with a definite spine of acid. Still quite enjoyable!
Lastly, I poured the remaining half of the 2018, maybe 75-90 minutes later. Tannins had relatively balanced out, more herb notes emerged, faint leather couch and cocoa – but still not close to the wonderfully balanced 2003. This 2018 is going to be wonderful for me come 2030 or so.
Bonus quick notes – 1986 Nairac barsac! Still surprisingly lively, caramel/copper colored, not browning too badly just yet! The acidity was middling, but still had a bit of stone fruit and honey to it for a few moments before progressing fully into caramel/burnt sugar/nuts. Relatively light, not too cloying – but as a $25 find of a 750mL of 40 year old Barsac, it exceeded all expectations!
by JJxiv15

4 Comments
Thanks for posting! Not that I needed more convincing but going to hold onto the couple of 2019s I have for awhile yet!
Thanks for the reviews, really great to read the side by side comparisons. Where on earth did you find an β88 and β03 for $50? I would jump all over older Meyney for that price.
Thanks for the notes. I have an ’88 and good to know it’s still got life. I think I paid < $15 for it at release. I had a ’69 that I’d gotten in a mixed Bordeaux case at auction years ago. I expected the worst when I tried it last year but it still had lots of color and was really very good.
Love seeing this. I just put my case of 2020 intern storage. Will check back in 15 years.