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At the Paris end of Melbourne’s CBD, between theatres and wine bars, a new French spot has seamlessly settled into its abode.
Almost French Epicure opened late last year beneath the Sheraton, bringing croissants in the morning, wine in the evening and a distinctly fuss-free take on French dining to the city.
Why ‘Almost’?
We wondered the same and it turns out the name isn’t some grand statement. Almost French was already the name of the Richmond patisserie when Alex Charasse bought in years ago.
“We couldn’t find a name we liked and so we said ‘eh’ – Almost French is quite a funny name to have. And we just kept it going from there. First, we had the Almost French Patisserie in Richmond and in the city now, we’ve got Almost French Epicure,” said Charasse.
Now, with Epicure, the brand has stretched beyond pastries into something broader, but the tone hasn’t shifted.
Almost traditional
According to Charasse, Almost French Epicure is neither a traditional bakery nor a formal wine bar. It toes the line between the two and moves through the day, serving up fresh baguettes, croissants and quiches by day, followed by evenings laced with French wines, pre-theatre meals and elegant cheese and charcuterie platters.
The focus is straightforward: keep the quality high, price things sensibly and grow at a pace that doesn’t compromise the experience. Charasse’s emphasis remains on local customers rather than volume.
“We always try to use the freshest, best-quality products we can, especially when it comes to the wine. At the same time, we want it to stay affordable. We’re not interested in big price tags. The philosophy is simple: extremely good quality, but at a normal price,” he said.
The approach makes more sense when you look at Charasse’s background.
Long hours, big learning
Charasse started baking at six years old in his mother’s kitchen before earning the titles of Maître Pâtissier and Maître Chocolatier in France.
His training took him through Le Clos d’Or and the three-Michelin-starred Le TroisGros, followed by roles across luxury hotels and cruise lines, baking cakes for U.S. Presidents and Saudi Arabian royalty.
His traditional French training, while a point of great pride for Charasse, was an intense experience.
“The hours were long,” said Charasse. “Sixteen and seventeen-hour days weren’t unusual because at five o’clock in the morning, you’d wake up to go to the mountain and pick flowers and learn about which of those flowers are best suited for making a dish.
“It was amazing to learn, but physically, I won’t lie, it was really hard. When you finish work at one o’clock or four o’clock in the morning and have to be ready to go again in a few hours, it’s great, but you do need a bit of sleep,” he snickered.
French kitchens get romanticised in movies for their pace and discipline, but in reality, chefs who make it through and ultimately master the inimitable culinary technique deserve more than just a tip of the hat. Perhaps a warm blanket and some melatonin.
Moving to Melbourne
When Charasse arrived in Melbourne in 2009, the city’s food scene was strong but still evolving.
“The food was good, but nothing compared to what we have now. At this point, Melbourne food is very easily comparable to what we can get in Europe.”
He went on to shape pastry programs at Vue de Monde, The Windsor and Grossi Florentino and worked major events including the Australian Open. Over time, he watched the city grow into the level of competition and creativity it has today.
Almost French Epicure reflects that evolution. While the ambience is more rounded and wholesome, the French technique still shines through – all corners intact. What lands instead is something easy and polished without feeling showy.
At the Paris end of the city, it fits naturally. French precision filtered through Melbourne’s pace, built for locals who just want some good food and a great glass of wine.
Charasse confirms a desire to expand the Almost French brand to new locations when the time is right.
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