I
n Vila Medeiros, a far-flung district on the northern edge of São Paulo, Rodrigo Oliveira built a restaurant that has become a pilgrimage site for chefs and industry professionals looking to experience sertaneja cuisine, originating in Brazil’s northeast. The fact that it sits beside the international airport is a logistical blessing.
In half a century, Mocotó has evolved from a dive bar opened by Oliveira’s father, José, into one of the city’s most sought-after tables for several reasons: its warm, democratic atmosphere; its deep ties to the surrounding community; and, most importantly, its food. Think sharply executed caipirinhas; gelatinous, restorative caldo de mocotó; baião de dois layered with rice, beans, and dried meat; and the popular dadinhos de tapioca, bite-size cubes of tapioca starch and fresh cheese that are crisp outside but elastic within (Chef Diego Rossi called them “absolutely fantastic” when recommending Mocotó in our conversation last week).
Dining and Cooking