Kyoudai Zushi (2*, Tabelog 4.44)

Had a wonderful ‘Niigata-mae’ omakase at Kyodai Zushi in Niigata. All ingredients are exclusively sourced from Sado Island and waters along Niigata coastline except sea urchin which is procured from Hokkaido.

Great cost performance at 25,000 yen (USD160) all-in for 20 items of otsumami and nigiri. Almost all guests during my visit were from Tokyo who made the 2-hour bullet train ride to indulge in an omakase with different sourced seafood compared to Tokyo ones.

Distinctive offering from my visit included: super sweet namban shrimps local to Niigata, unctuous blackthroat sea perch passed directly hand-to-palm to preserve its almost fall-apart texture, jukusei yellowtail, whelk kushiyaki, jukusei chutoro marinated in glistening squid paste, and futomaki containing walnut.

The shari are made using local rice called emi no kizuna and seasoned with a blend of shirozu and mild akazu from Niigata.

Least liked was the crab handroll, which was over-generously filled with snow crab meat and its miso. Preferred to have more amount of rice in the mixture to cushion the overpowering richness of the miso.

Overall atmosphere was relaxed and hospitable, made possible by enthusiastic kitchen crew (Kyoudai means brothers in Japanese). The 8-seat counter located in a sukiya was elegant and spacious. Great selection of nihonshu and beer produced in Niigata.

I also had a reservation at Tokiwa Sushi for comparison of Niigata-mae but had to forfeit it as Sapporo snowstorm delayed our travel by a day. But glad that I still made it to Kyodai Zushi to enjoy the sea bounty of Niigata and Sado Island.

*Menu:

1. Shirauo Tempura (icefish)

2. Madai (Sado)

3. Warayaki Tsuri-Sawara (Niigata)

4. Meiji maguro .

5. Nanban ebi

6. Nodoguro Aburi, with shrimp miso

7. Aosa nori ume chawan (sea lettuce & plum)

8. Kou-ika (Niigata)

9. 90kg otoro 15 days aged

10. Ankimo

11. Buri 13.5kg

12. Hokkaido Bafun Uni

13. Baikai kushiyaki

14. Chutoro Zuke

15. Aji

16. Nagamo Akamoku (red algae)

17. Zuwai Gani Maki

18. Arajiru

19. Kurumii futomaki

20. Tamago with nanban shrimp sauce