Australia first hit the headlines with unique fruit-filled wines that didn’t hold back.
The labels were written in a language that was easy to understand, and the wines were easy to enjoy. We loved the bold flavours of rich buttery chardonnay and big powerful ripe shiraz. The prices were usually very competitive too.
But there was always more to Australia than mass-produced big wines. There were plenty of cooler regions that produced lighter more subtle wines. Over the last decade, a new generation of artisan winemakers has begun producing more balanced, less alcoholic wines often made from very different grape varieties. We don’t always see many of them over here as many are made in small quantities and are snapped up closer to home, but it is worth looking in specialist wine shops. As temperatures increase due to climate change, some producers are planting varieties that can retain acidity in the heat. The fiano and greco below are two such examples.
Australian chardonnay and shiraz have undergone a makeover too. The chardonnay on your supermarket shelf is likely to be lighter in style, with less if any oak-ageing, and most shiraz is medium-bodied and restrained. As well as being more elegant, they will be usually be lower in alcohol too. I feature two such examples below. The shiraz is from the cooler Grampian Hills in Western Victoria, one of the oldest vineyards in Australia, and also home to some of the finest elegant shiraz.
Specially Selected Kooliburra Chardonnay 2024 Specially Selected Kooliburra Chardonnay 2024, Limestone Coast, Australia13.5%, €8.99
An unoaked medium-bodied chardonnay with fresh lightly textured tropical fruits. Drink it alongside creamy white fish, chicken or mushroom dishes.
From Aldi
Pikes Luccio Fiano Clare Valley Pikes Luccio Fiano Clare Valley, South Australia 202412%, €19.50
Light in alcohol but full of textured pineapple, melon fruits and refreshing lime zest. Enjoy with salmon, chicken and seafood pasta.
From: JNWine.com; The Counter, Letterkenny, Co Donegal
Ben Haines Everyday Series Syrah Ben Haines Everyday Series Syrah, Grampians 202213%, €24.50
A medium-bodied, perfumed syrah with smooth dark fruits, black pepper, a touch of woodsmoke and nicely integrated tannins. Try it with roast red meats or Mediterranean vegetables.
From: Neighbourhood Wines, Leeson Street, Dublin 4 and Baggot Street, Dublin 2; Sweeney’s, Dublin 3; Barossa, Dublin 4; The Wine Grove, Castlebar, Co Mayo; Magee’s Wine Lodge, Crossgar, Co Down
John Wilson 0703 Hither Hither & Yon Greco 2023, McLaren Vale13%, €26-28
Fresh pear and apple fruits with ginger and a savoury dry finish. This would go nicely with grilled white fish; sea bass sounds perfect.
From Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin; The Drinkstore, Dublin 7
Dining and Cooking