By Ann Martini
It is my experience that nothing bad ever happens when you start your Sunday with a basket of warm, freshly baked mini blueberry muffins. Add a flight of espresso martinis – original, peanut butter cup, and mocha raspberry, presented fancifully in a “tree” of mini martini glasses (mimosas, too, if that’s your vibe). And so it was on a recent visit to Trattoria Romana’s Johnston location to experience their
new brunch menu.
The vibe here is more sophisticated than many other Sunday brunch settings – it’s not brightly lit or loud, as fun as those experiences can be. Trattoria Romana’s décor strikes a balance between refined and relaxed: neutral tones, dark woods, white tablecloths, and muted lighting. The restaurant name itself translates to mean a traditional Italian eatery serving hearty, authentic food from the Rome region, in a welcoming, unpretentious atmosphere, less formal than a ristorante but more
established than a simple osteria.
At its heart is the story of Chef Luciano Canova, a native Roman whose childhood on a small farm shaped his culinary ethos: impeccable ingredients treated with simple techniques and cooking methods. After refining his craft at the Culinary Institute of Italy and kitchens across Europe, Canova brought his vision to New England. Across locations in North Attleboro and Mansfield, MA, and here in Lincoln, South County, and Johnston, that narrative unfolds plate by plate.
Perusing the menu is no easy task as are there many brunch options: pancakes, waffles, French toast, benedicts, hash, and omelets. Over those scrumptious muffins and martinis, we take 30 minutes to make our choices: A bagel and lox – a classic plain bagel topped with cream cheese, strips of salt-cured salmon filet, and chopped hard-boiled eggs, garnished with red onions, tomatoes, and capers, arrives with homefries, and fruit – a telling barometer of a kitchen’s ability to elevate simple components. Plus, the chicken and waffles – a homemade Belgian-style waffle topped with fried buttermilk chicken, real maple syrup, butter, and fresh fruit. The bagel and lox is fresh as could be, balanced in creaminess and acidity, and easily could feed two people. The chicken is equally large, with buttermilk chicken that was impossibly tender and juicy. These dishes show a kitchen that understands comforting brunch fundamentals but isn’t afraid to lend them some TLC.
The bonus to the brunch menu is that you can also order off their dinner menu, chockablock with dozens of classic dishes: apps, salads, pizzas, and mains showcasing pastas, chicken, beef, veal, fish, and even a few vegetarian options. We order the bucatini alla carbonara, one of the four classic Roman pastas (the others being amatriciana, cacio e pepe, and gricia; these aren’t on the menu here, though), comprised of homemade bucatini pasta in a traditional carbonara sauce made with pancetta, extra virgin olive oil, and egg yolks, finished with pecorino Romano and cracked black pepper. It took me back to the first time I’d ever tried the real thing at a little trattoria, La Carbonara, in Rome. Silky and cheesy, punctuated by the salty depth of the pancetta, it was divine. We added a crispy chicken cutlet (because why ever pass up the opportunity to eat one?), classically fried with seasoned breadcrumbs. I noted that it was completely different from the chicken I had from the brunch selections, a detail I appreciated. A lesser restaurant might have used the same chicken for both dishes.
We lingered well into the afternoon, as did most of the diners around us, clinking glasses and contemplating dessert. It’s a perfect European café vibe: a little boozy, very convivial, and perfect for celebrations or slow Sundays alike.
Trattoria Romana
1571 Atwood Avenue, Johnston
519-9100
Trattoria-Johnston.com
Dining and Cooking