2018 Hospices de Beaune (Coche-Dury) Volnay 1er Cru ‘General Muteau’
Notes in post below.
by DontLookBack_88
4 Comments
DontLookBack_88
This is a fun one… for those unfamiliar, Hospices de Beaune is a storied Burgundy institution, first established as charitable housing and hospital in the 1400s. The hospital has moved on to more modern facilities, while the historical buildings are now a museum. Over the centuries, the Hospices has received many donations, including several prestigious vineyard parcels. Since 1859, a yearly charity wine auction (where just-made wine barrels are sold) has been held at the Hospices and is one of the cornerstone events in Burgundy.
Interestingly, though wines are sold under the Hospices de Beaune label and proceeds go to its charity, different winemakers can buy barrels or be contracted to handle the elevage, which is why you’ll see “Elevé par [producer]” on labels.
This specific cuvee was named after an old benefactor of the hospital. Its Pinot Noir grapes come from select limestone and marl Premier Cru parcels from Volnay, one of the rare Côte de Beaune areas more known for red than white wine. Throughout the years, ‘General Muteau’ has been known for intense aromatics and finesse, though specific style varies depending on producer.
Elevage for this 2018 ‘General Muteau’ was done by Coche-Dury, one of the most respected and collectible Burgundy producers (though they’re more known for white wines). Accordingly, it is eye-wateringly expensive ($800+ retail in the U.S.), though versions from other producers are much less — for example, the 2014 ‘General Muteau’ by Matrot (good winemaker, but not Coche-level) is closer to $200. Confusingly, multiple winemakers can make Hospices wine from the same site and vintage (there is *also* a 2018 by Bichot), so paying attention to the label is critical when buying Hospices de Beaune bottles.
**Tasting Notes:** Bright ruby. Intense nose of ripe red berries and dark florals. Palate is denser and more tannic than I expected (high for Burgundy, but maybe medium+ in the grand scheme), balanced nicely by acidity, with notes of ripe cherry and some earthiness. Finish is medium+ length and tannic. This wine is good now but still a baby — there’s so much structure and fruit density that I think it’ll be truly outstanding in 5-10 years.
Great_Success_2396
Loved our visit to Hospice. When we visited I bought a bottle from the gift shop. I placed it in the wardrobe in our hotel room during our stay. I didn’t notice until several days later that I had forgotten to grab the bottle when we checked out of the hotel 🤦 Guess I have to return
segujer
warm thoughts to your wallet, but thanks for tasting this otherwise another CdB range of *inaccessible bottles 🍷
duxpdx
A few of your notes are inaccurate or confusing.
The auction event is for barrels, not bottles. The bottles are sold by the producers who purchase the barrels at auction. In order to do so one must be authorized and is only available to wineries in Burgundy.
Individuals and groups can and do contract with these authorized established producers to procure barrels at auction who will then handle the aging and bottling of the wine per the Hospice rules, the time isn’t donated. If a producer acquires a barrel and is not acting on behalf of a 3rd party they may sell it as they see fit.
It isn’t confusing that multiple wine makers can make a wine with the same name, multiple barrels from each go up for auction and thus may not go to the same bidder, as only one barrel is auctioned at a time.
4 Comments
This is a fun one… for those unfamiliar, Hospices de Beaune is a storied Burgundy institution, first established as charitable housing and hospital in the 1400s. The hospital has moved on to more modern facilities, while the historical buildings are now a museum. Over the centuries, the Hospices has received many donations, including several prestigious vineyard parcels. Since 1859, a yearly charity wine auction (where just-made wine barrels are sold) has been held at the Hospices and is one of the cornerstone events in Burgundy.
Interestingly, though wines are sold under the Hospices de Beaune label and proceeds go to its charity, different winemakers can buy barrels or be contracted to handle the elevage, which is why you’ll see “Elevé par [producer]” on labels.
This specific cuvee was named after an old benefactor of the hospital. Its Pinot Noir grapes come from select limestone and marl Premier Cru parcels from Volnay, one of the rare Côte de Beaune areas more known for red than white wine. Throughout the years, ‘General Muteau’ has been known for intense aromatics and finesse, though specific style varies depending on producer.
Elevage for this 2018 ‘General Muteau’ was done by Coche-Dury, one of the most respected and collectible Burgundy producers (though they’re more known for white wines). Accordingly, it is eye-wateringly expensive ($800+ retail in the U.S.), though versions from other producers are much less — for example, the 2014 ‘General Muteau’ by Matrot (good winemaker, but not Coche-level) is closer to $200. Confusingly, multiple winemakers can make Hospices wine from the same site and vintage (there is *also* a 2018 by Bichot), so paying attention to the label is critical when buying Hospices de Beaune bottles.
**Tasting Notes:** Bright ruby. Intense nose of ripe red berries and dark florals. Palate is denser and more tannic than I expected (high for Burgundy, but maybe medium+ in the grand scheme), balanced nicely by acidity, with notes of ripe cherry and some earthiness. Finish is medium+ length and tannic. This wine is good now but still a baby — there’s so much structure and fruit density that I think it’ll be truly outstanding in 5-10 years.
Loved our visit to Hospice. When we visited I bought a bottle from the gift shop. I placed it in the wardrobe in our hotel room during our stay. I didn’t notice until several days later that I had forgotten to grab the bottle when we checked out of the hotel 🤦
Guess I have to return
warm thoughts to your wallet, but thanks for tasting this otherwise another CdB range of *inaccessible bottles 🍷
A few of your notes are inaccurate or confusing.
The auction event is for barrels, not bottles. The bottles are sold by the producers who purchase the barrels at auction. In order to do so one must be authorized and is only available to wineries in Burgundy.
Individuals and groups can and do contract with these authorized established producers to procure barrels at auction who will then handle the aging and bottling of the wine per the Hospice rules, the time isn’t donated. If a producer acquires a barrel and is not acting on behalf of a 3rd party they may sell it as they see fit.
It isn’t confusing that multiple wine makers can make a wine with the same name, multiple barrels from each go up for auction and thus may not go to the same bidder, as only one barrel is auctioned at a time.