(Updated 16/08/2025)
As a travel writer with a penchant for slow food and local traditions, I’ve found myself in many peculiar situations. I went to discover pasta in the province of Venice. But nothing could have prepared me for the day I nearly died by pasta in the Venetian countryside.
TL;DR: Embark on an unforgettable pasta journey through Venice as you discover the art of local pasta making and indulge in multiple courses of innovative and traditional dishes at Tenuta Cartirago.
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Eat as locals do when eating pasta in Venice
It all began innocently enough. I was invited, along with three Instagram influencers (a species I’m still trying to understand), to explore the culinary artisans of the Venice province. Our first stop: the Tenuta Cartirago in Lama Pezzoli, a picturesque estate that promised a showcase of local pasta makers. Now, I’ve always believed that to truly understand a culture, you must eat as the locals do. But as I sat down to lunch, I realized I might have taken this philosophy a step too far. Our host, the enigmatic Raffaele Dammicco of Borella Pasta, had a glint in his eye that should have been my first warning.
Tenuta Cartirago – Schiesari Eventi – Via San Francesco d’Assisi, 412 Località, 45010 Ceregnano RO – https://www.schiesarieventi.com
“Today,” he announced with a flourish, “we celebrate the glory of Venetian pasta!” Little did I know, this “celebration” would involve not one, not two, but four pasta courses. As a starter. Before the main course. And dessert.
The first two courses featured fresh tortellone from Il Tortellaio Matto, a small workshop in Boara Pisano. These plump pillows of pasta, filled with light ricotta and local datterini tomatoes, were a revelation. Each bite was a testament to the skill of Sara, the pasta wizard I would meet later, whose hands could transform simple ingredients into edible art.
Then came Raffaele’s pride and joy: two courses showcasing Borella Pasta of Venice dried varieties. The bigoli, a thick spaghetti-like pasta native to the Veneto region, had a satisfying chew that spoke of its egg-rich dough. The subioti, a ridged short pasta, clung to its sauce with a tenacity I was beginning to envy as I eyed my rapidly filling plate.
As my fellow diners – all French, all seemingly immune to carbohydrates – delicately twirled their forks, I found myself in a silent battle. On one side: my upbringing, which strictly forbade wasting food. On the other: the very real fear that I might explode if I consumed one more bite. It was then that I noticed Raffaele watching us, that glint in his eye now unmistakable. Was this a test? A bizarre plot to incapacitate a group of unsuspecting influencers (and one increasingly suspicious travel writer) through sheer volume of pasta in Venice?
Cooking pasta in Venice for 20
Just as I was contemplating a discrete exit to unbutton my trousers, salvation arrived in the form of the main course: Pork Cheeks Braised in Tomato Wine Sauce. As the tender meat melted on my tongue, I forgot my carb-induced panic. This, I thought, was worth any discomfort. Unable to resist, I slipped away from the table and found my way to the kitchen. There, I met the mastermind behind this culinary symphony: Cook Bernadini. As she shared her secrets of braising, I realized that here, in this kitchen, was the real story. Not in the polished Instagram posts or carefully curated experiences, but in the generations of knowledge passed down through families, in the patient tending of a sauce over seven hours, in the careful selection of local wines to complement the dish.
As we were herded back into the shuttle, our next destination awaited: Il Tortellaio Matto in Boara Pisano. Despite my pasta-induced stupor, I found myself eagerly anticipating this visit. After all, I’d tasted the results of their craftsmanship; now I would see the magic in action.
Il Tortellaio Matto in Boara Pisano
The workshop was a hive of activity, centered around Sara, the aforementioned pasta wizard. Her hands moved with a speed and precision that left us all in awe. In mere minutes, she transformed a mound of dough into a pound of perfectly formed tortellini. Her brother, Sam, proudly informed us of their mission: to bring the taste of homemade pasta to tables across Venice and beyond.
As Sara demonstrated the art of pasta making, I couldn’t help but think of the contrast between this small, family-run operation and the sleek efficiency of larger producers like Borella. Yet both were united in their commitment to quality and tradition. Il Tortellaio Matto’s philosophy is simple: bring the fragrance and flavor of homemade pasta to both home and restaurant tables. Their laboratory is a testament to this commitment. Here, soft wheat flour, durum wheat semolina, and fresh eggs are mixed by skilled hands and simple machinery. The pasta is always worked fresh, without preservatives or heat treatments, maintaining the quality of the raw materials.
Their range of products is impressive: from the local bigoli to more common varieties like linguine and spaghetti alla chitarra. They even offer variations like squid ink pasta, cocoa pasta, and vibrant green spinach pasta. Each type is a canvas for the flavors of the Veneto region. As we watched Sara work, Sam shared their vision of expanding their reach, already supplying many restaurants in Venice. I couldn’t help but wonder: in this age of mass production, how long could such artisanal methods survive?
Il Tortellaio Matto – Via I Maggio, 57, 35040 Boara Pisani PD – Tel. 345 106 0541 – Website: http://iltortellaiomatto.it/
Packaging in Italy looks like it was made 100 years ago and that’s the point
With its retro packaging unchanged since 1937 (though thankfully not the same physical wrappers), it’s a brand that seems to exist in a time capsule. Based in Camponogara, not far from the birthplace of bigoli in Bassano del Grappa, Borella has been crafting pasta since 1935. As we sampled their various shapes – the thick bigoli, the ridged penne, the unique subioti – Raffaele regaled us with the history of his family’s business. Since 1935, they’ve been driven by a love for good, genuine food and a curiosity for rediscovering old, traditional recipes.
But it was Raffaele’s sauces that truly stole the show. His anchovy sauce, a Venetian favorite, was a revelation. The promise of wild boar and duck ragouts had me planning a return trip before I’d even left. As the sun began to set over the Venetian countryside, casting a golden glow over the fields that had produced the very grains in our pasta, I found myself reflecting on the day’s adventures. From the small, family-run Il Tortellaio Matto to the historically rich Borella Pasta, I had witnessed firsthand the dedication and passion that goes into preserving culinary traditions.
Borella & C. srl – Via Industria n. 49 30010 Camponogara Venezia – Tel. +39 041 4174391 – Email: [email protected] – Website: https://www.pastaborella.it/
Heroes of Venetian cuisine
These artisans, whether crafting fresh tortelloni by hand or perfecting centuries-old dried pasta recipes, are the unsung heroes of Italian cuisine. They are the keepers of flavors that have satisfied generations, the guardians of techniques passed down through families. Yes, I may have nearly died by pasta that day. But what a glorious way to go it would have been. And as I packed my bags, already planning my next visit to explore more of the region’s culinary treasures, I couldn’t help but smile at the thought of the stories I would tell.
After all, isn’t that what travel is all about? The stories we collect, the flavors we savor, and the traditions we help preserve by sharing them with the world. So come to the Venice province, dear readers. Come for the pasta, stay for the stories, and leave with a deeper appreciation for the artisans who keep culinary traditions alive, one perfectly crafted noodle at a time.
Just remember to pack your stretchy pants. Trust me on this one.
Video Tenuta Cartirago near Venice
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Venezia Unica
Tourist Information
P.za San Marco, 71B,
30100
Venice
VE
Veneto
Italy
Dining and Cooking