Credit: Rebecca Angel Baer
Even though I’ve lived in Birmingham for about 8 years now, I still consider myself a Memphian first. I was raised in the Bluff City, and its personality and culture still resonate with me in my adult life. My parents moved away from Memphis when I was in college, so my visits home these days are less often than I’d like. But when I do manage a trip, there’s one restaurant I always have to stop at—and it’s not a barbecue joint.
A Hidden Gem
Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana is a classic hidden gem. Its original location sits at the end of a small strip mall right on the border between two suburbs, Germantown and Cordova (where I grew up). Opened in 2003, the spot offers a different style of Mexican cuisine than any other place in town. Owner Pepe Magallanes says on their website that his food was the first to “show Memphians what Mexican food was really about.”
You won’t find chile con carne or fajitas on the menu here. The fare is styled after that of Pepe’s hometown, Mexico City. There are offerings like tacos, flautas, and quesadillas to choose from, as well as fresh salsa and delicious elote. But the star of the show here, for me, has always been the signature Tortugas. You might be familiar with the torta, a Mexican sandwich with varying fillings, and these are the Magallanes family’s take on that classic. If you ask any diehard fan of this eatery for a recommendation, 9 times out of 10 they’ll tell you to go for a Tortuga.
The Best Of The Best
Credit: Rebecca Angel Baer
These delicacies start with the platonic ideal of sandwich bread: crisp and substantial on the outside but with a fluffy, soft interior. This dreamy homemade bun is spread with beans for added deliciousness, and the sandwich is packed to the gills with avocado, queso fresco, lettuce, tomato, peppers, onion, and your choice of their spectacular protein options. Go classic with slow-roasted chicken or braised pork, or splash out with Gulf shrimp or sea scallops. My personal favorite, recommended to me when I was a teenager by Pepe’s son and co-owner Jonathan, is the Tortuga De Oreja de Elefante (aka Elephant Ear), made not of our pachyderm pals but top sirloin.
The house-made chips on the side of your Tortuga give you the perfect crunchy accompaniment to your tender sandwich, and the salsa kicks it all up another level. And if you’re interested in tasting the most simple but fabulous guacamole you’ve ever had, I recommend ordering some to share with your table—or to keep all to yourself. I won’t judge either way.
When I’m 245 miles away and dreaming of a meal from this icon, it’s incomplete without my other favorite thing on the menu: Tesote. This iced tea drink is legendary in my family; my mom and I have tried to replicate it at home from memory for years, but perfection has eluded us. What makes it special is its perfect balance of tea, citrus, mint, and honey. On a sweltering day here in Alabama, I yearn for this beverage’s cool, refreshing taste. If tea’s not your thing, I suggest one of their fresh juices, which are also delicious.
Why It’s So Beloved
Deli Mexicana, as I have always referred to it, is dedicated to sourcing prime ingredients. They use local produce and high-quality meat from area farmers and grocers. This commitment to excellence is reflected in the taste of their food—and has led to passionate support from Bluff City diners. A second location, in East Memphis, opened up in the mid 2010s to satisfy Memphians’ desire for this fresh, flavorful food.
All along the walls of the original location are pithy signs, some expressing adages, some answering frequently asked questions (with a bit of sass), and some touting Pepe’s adrenaline-seeker exploits. They might pique a first-time visitor’s interest, but the thing that will keep them coming back is the cuisine. From-scratch tastes and intentional preparation elevate the menu here far beyond your expectations of what you can find in a strip mall. The next time you’re passing through Memphis, tread beyond the beaten barbecue path and take a detour to Deli Mexicana. You might find yourself, like me, heading there first the next time you’re in town.
Read the original article on Southern Living
Dining and Cooking