There’s always a moment in early March when winter loosens its grip just enough to make you hopeful. The light lingers a little longer in the evenings, the air softens and suddenly the idea of cooking something bright, punchy and colourful feels far more appealing than another heavy stew.
Chicken is often the first thing to follow suit. Not the slow, Sunday-roast kind that belongs firmly to colder months, but dishes that feel lighter, sharper and a little more playful, leaning into citrus, herbs, spice and char.
In this collection, chicken takes on all sorts of spring-leaning personalities. There’s John Torode’s “brick chicken”, pressed flat in the pan until the skin turns properly crisp, then served with smoky chipotle-braised cabbage. Yotam Ottolenghi and Noor Murad go bold with blackened chicken thighs and a caramel-clementine dressing that cuts through the char with sweetness and zing. Sabrina Ghayour keeps things brilliantly simple with harissa and lemon-roasted chicken that works just as well piled into flatbreads as it does alongside rice.
Elsewhere, the flavours wander further afield. Julie Lin’s curry leaf chicken is drenched in a rich salted egg yolk sauce inspired by Singapore, while Ixta Belfrage pairs chicken with pineapple, ’nduja and tangerine for something sweet, spicy and unapologetically lively.
None of it feels wintry, and that’s the point. These are the sort of dishes that bridge the seasons – hearty enough for cool evenings, but bright enough to hint that spring is finally on its way.
Brick roast chicken and braised chipotle cabbage
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Pressed flat under a weight so the skin turns deeply crisp, with smoky chipotle cabbage soaking up the juices (Dan Jones)
“Chicken and just five other ingredients equals a crowd pleaser with little fuss,” says former MasterChef judge John Torode.
“You don’t have to use a brick, any heavy weight will do (the brick keeps the chicken flat so the skin stays crisp), but what a great story to tell around the family table – ‘oh yes, I got a brick and cooked you a chook!’”
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients:
1 whole chicken (2-2.5kg)
Juice of 2 limes
100g chipotle paste
Olive oil, for cooking
For the chipotle cabbage:
A little oil, for frying
1 hispi cabbage, cut into 8 wedges
1 tsp chipotle paste
200-300ml water
To serve (optional):
Oven fries
Mayonnaise
Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 220C (200C fan). If using a brick, wrap it in foil and heat in the oven.
2. Place the chicken on a board, breast-side down with the parson’s nose towards you. Use a sharp knife, or poultry shears, to spatchcock, by cutting down each side of the parson’s nose. Remove the backbone. Flatten the chicken a bit, turn it over and push it down against the board. Use a sharp knife to make small slashes in the skin. Pierce all over the skin with a fork.
3. Make a marinade with the lime juice and chipotle paste and rub all over the chicken, back and front.
4. Heat a large ovenproof frying pan and add a little olive oil. Place the chicken skin-side down and let it sizzle. Drizzle with oil once a little coloured, then turn the chicken over. Weigh the chicken down with the heated brick wrapped in foil (thus brick chicken) or use a cast-iron lid. Leave to cook over a medium heat for five minutes then turn and cook the other side for five minutes with the weight on. Transfer to the oven and bake for 40-45 minutes, still weighed down by the brick.
5. Meanwhile, for the cabbage, heat a large frying pan that has a lid, add a splash of oil and place the cabbage wedges in the pan. Cook for three minutes to get some good colour, then turn them. Mix the chipotle paste and water, pour over the cabbage and cook for five minutes, then turn the cabbage and cook until it is soft and the liquid reduces to make a sauce.
6. Remove the chicken from the oven and leave to rest. Place the cabbage on a large platter. Chop the chicken by removing the thighs and chopping the breast in half. Place the chicken on top of the cabbage, swirl the cooking juices in the pan and pour over. If liked, serve with fries and mayonnaise.
Tip: You can use a fire brick in the oven as they are better at withstanding higher temperatures. They can be purchased from DIY stores and online. If you do not have a suitable brick, a cast-iron lid will work.
‘John & Lisa’s Kitchen’ by John Torode and Lisa Faulkner (Quadrille, £25).
Blackened chicken with caramel and clementine dressing
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Charred chicken balanced with sweet caramel, citrus and chilli for a punchy, vibrant finish (Elena Heatherwick)
“Don’t be afraid to really char your chicken thighs here (making sure to ventilate your kitchen well!) – this’ll add an intense flavour alongside the vibrant dressing and make for a very punchy eating experience,” say chefs Yotam Ottolenghi and Noor Murad.
“That said, you can also grill your chicken thighs in the oven, or swap them out for chicken breasts, if you prefer.”
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
6 large chicken thighs (1kg), boneless and skin on (850g)
1½ tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp chilli flakes
1 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp olive oil
12 spring onions, trimmed, washed well and dried
Salt
For the caramel and clementine dressing:
85g caster sugar
30g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
2 red chillies, deseeded, halved widthways and julienned
3 tbsp rice wine vinegar
3-4 limes: 1 halved, to serve, and the rest juiced to get 3 tbsp
2 tbsp fish sauce
2-3 clementines, peeled
5g fresh coriander, roughly chopped, to serve
Method:
1. Put the chicken thighs, turmeric, chilli flakes, fish sauce, oil and one teaspoon of salt into a large bowl and mix well to combine. Leave to marinate for an hour, or cover and refrigerate for longer (up to overnight). If the latter, remove the chicken thighs from the fridge about 45 minutes before cooking.
2. Place a large cast-iron sauté pan on a medium-high heat and ventilate your kitchen well. Once hot, add half the chicken thighs, skin side down. Weigh down the thighs with a large saucepan around the same size, so they are well pressed into the pan. Cook for six to eight minutes, or until the skin is charred and blackened. Remove the top pan and set the chicken thighs aside, then repeat with the remaining thighs. The second batch might blacken faster, so check them at the five-minute mark. Remove all the chicken, setting it aside, and let the pan cool for five to 10 minutes.
3. If needed, drain off all but one-and-a-half tablespoons of the fat collected in the pan and return to a medium-high heat. Add the spring onions, using a pair of tongs to coat them in the fat, then put back the chicken thighs, skin side up, and any of their juices, nestling them into the spring onions, along with 90ml water. Cook for eight minutes, or until the chicken is tender and cooked through. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and leave to rest for five minutes before slicing each thigh into two-centimetre-wide strips.
4. While the chicken is cooking, make the caramel and clementine dressing. Heat a medium saucepan on a medium-high heat. Once hot, turn the heat down to medium and sprinkle in the sugar to coat the base – it should immediately start to melt and colour around the sides. Swirl the pan, without stirring, so that all the sugar melts and turns deeply golden, about one-and-a-half to two minutes. Add the ginger and chillies, and stir continuously for 45 seconds, just to take off the spicy edge. Quickly add the vinegar, lime juice and fish sauce, stirring to combine. Cook for 30 seconds, then remove from the heat. Leave to cool for 10 minutes.
5. Use a small serrated knife to slice the clementines into one-centimetre-thick rounds, then pull at them gently to halve them (don’t worry if they break apart further). Stir these into the cooled sauce.
6. To serve, transfer the spring onions to a large platter and top with the chicken and any pan juices, using a spatula to keep each thigh together. Pour the dressing all over, then sprinkle with the coriander. Lastly, squeeze over the lime halves.
‘Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Extra Good Things’ by Noor Murad and Yotam Ottolenghi (Ebury Press, £25).
Pilaf cu Pui – chicken pilaf with potatoes and garlic courgettes
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Chicken, rice and potatoes slowly cooked in stock until soft, savoury and comforting (Issy Croker)
“A pilaf is one of the most popular dishes in Romania, a fantastic combination of any ingredients we have at hand, cooked together with rice: chicken pilaf, vegetable pilaf and even fruit pilaf,” explains Irina Georgescu.
“The rice is cooked in plenty of stock, and stewed gently in a covered pot until it reaches a creamy yet runny consistency.”
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients:
35ml (generous 2 tbsp) sunflower oil
4 medium bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 large brown onion, finely sliced
300g potatoes, cut into thick chunks
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
250g long-grain white rice
1L vegetable or chicken stock
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 medium courgette
2 large garlic cloves
1 tsp chopped marjoram, fresh or dried
Salt
To serve:
Good olive oil
Lemon wedges
Tomato salad
Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 170C fan (325F/gas 3).
2. Use a 23-24 centimetre, 12-centimetre-deep casserole dish with a lid (otherwise, cooking times may differ).
3. Cover the base with the oil and heat well. Sprinkle the chicken with salt generously, and fry the thighs in one layer for 15 minutes, turning often. Keep the heat on medium so they don’t burn, then transfer the cooked chicken to a plate.
4. Fry the onion with a good pinch of salt in the remaining oil over a medium heat for eight minutes. Add the potatoes, combine well and fry for another three minutes, then add the vinegar and scrape the base of the pan with a spatula to remove all those caramelised bits.
5. Place the chicken thighs on top of the potatoes in one layer, then scatter the rice on top and add the stock. Taste the stock to make sure it’s salty enough; if not, add more to the dish. The secret to a good pilaf is using a generous amount of salt. Add the black pepper, then cover and cook in the oven for 25 minutes. It will make a rather loose pilaf. Alternatively, cook it until the stock is completely absorbed.
6. Meanwhile, grate the courgette and garlic together and mix with the marjoram. When the rice is cooked, spread this mixture on top, put the lid back on and leave the pan to sit for five minutes out of the oven.
7. Serve immediately with a drizzle of your best olive oil, wedges of lemon to squeeze on top and a tomato salad.
‘Danube’ by Irina Georgescu (Hardie Grant, £28).
Curry leaf chicken legs with salted egg yolk sauce
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Fried chicken legs coated in a rich, buttery sauce made from salted egg yolks and fragrant curry leaves (Liz Seabrook)
“I became obsessed with salted egg yolk sauce after trying it at a restaurant in Singapore. It has an incredible, full-bodied flavour, a rich and velvety texture,” says cookery writer Julie Lin.
“There’s something so satisfying about salting your own egg yolks. The transformation of the yolk, as it solidifies, reminds me of an orange fruit pastille. Combined with evaporated milk – an ingredient used a lot in Malaysia due to the lack of fresh dairy farms – the richness is irresistible.”
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
2 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp chilli powder
4 chicken legs, skin on
Vegetable oil, for frying
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the salted egg yolk sauce:
2 tbsp butter
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
3-4cm piece of root ginger, peeled and minced
4 baked salted egg yolks
10 fresh curry leaves, plus extra (optional) to garnish
2 fresh red or green bird’s eye chillies, chopped (optional)
3 tbsp evaporated milk
1 tsp white sugar
¼ tsp ground white pepper
Method:
1. If salting your own egg yolks: cover the base of a shallow plastic container with fine salt, 2-3cm deep. Use a spoon to make dents, then add a yolk to each. Cover them with more salt, then refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight. The yolks should now have a sticky, gummy texture, perfect for layering on rice. They keep for 3 days in an airtight container in the fridge.
2. Preheat the oven to its lowest setting (about 60C/40C fan), place the yolks on an oiled wire rack and bake for 3 hours until dry and hard. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 months.
3. Combine the turmeric and chilli powder in a small bowl, then season with salt and black pepper. Rub this spice mixture into the chicken legs and let them marinate in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, or ideally overnight.
4. Heat a generous amount of vegetable oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Carefully lower the chicken legs into the hot oil and fry until golden and fully cooked. This should take about 10-15 minutes on each side, depending on their size. Once cooked, set the chicken aside on kitchen paper to drain any excess oil.
5. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the garlic and ginger, then fry until fragrant. Add the salted egg yolks and cook, stirring continuously, until it becomes a creamy, emulsified sauce.
6. Add the curry leaves and chillies (if using), then stir for a further minute. Pour in the evaporated milk, then mix in the sugar and white pepper. Stir until the sauce becomes thick and creamy.
7. Once the sauce is ready, add the fried chicken and toss in the sauce until each piece is well coated. Serve hot, garnished with additional curry leaves, if desired.
‘Sama Sama’ by Julie Lin (Ebury Press, £28).
Harissa and lemon roasted chicken thighs
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Sticky, charred chicken scented with harissa and lemon that works just as well in flatbreads as on a plate (Kris Kirkham)
This is such a simple recipe that I confess I have been making it for years and never thought to put it in one of my books,” says Sabrina Ghayour.
“It’s so handy and versatile, as it can be sliced and stuffed into pitta bread or wraps and sandwiches for lunchboxes, shredded and added to salads, or used in stir-fries or rice noodle dishes. But it also pairs perfectly with steamed rice or naan in the same way tandoori chicken does. You can also marinate the chicken up to 48 hours in advance, or freeze the marinated raw chicken for use at a later date or for batch cooking.”
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients:
1kg boneless, skinless chicken thighs
2 heaped tbsp rose harissa
150g Greek yoghurt
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon
Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
To serve (optional):
Flatbreads
Coriander leaves
Thinly sliced spring onions
Lemon wedges
Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 240C (220C fan), gas mark 9. Line a baking tray with baking paper.
2. Put the chicken thighs into a mixing bowl, add the other ingredients with a generous amount of salt and pepper and turn the chicken to coat well in the mixture, preferably using your hands.
3. Lay the chicken thighs on the lined tray and roast for 40 minutes or until sticky and charred around the edges and cooked through.
4. To serve, slice the chicken and serve in warmed flatbreads with Greek yoghurt, coriander leaves, sliced spring onions and alongside lemon wedges for squeezing over.
‘Persiana Everyday’ by Sabrina Ghayour (published by Aster, £26).
Herby chicken, leek and mushroom casserole
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A simple one-pot chicken dish with herbs, mushrooms and leeks that comes together with minimal effort (Andrew Hayes-Watkins)
“This delicious meal is perfect for a Sunday dinner, served alongside some buttery mash and seasonal veggies. It’s a super-easy one-pot dish that is great at any time of the year,” says The Batch Lady, aka Suzanne Mulholland, whose new book is designed to have nutritious meals on your plate super quick, with minimum effort involved. “This is fresh, packed full of goodness and totally delicious!”
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
6 skinless, boneless chicken thighs
100g unsmoked diced pancetta
100g sliced mushrooms
120g frozen chopped leeks
3 tsp frozen chopped garlic
Handful fresh parsley, finely chopped
Handful fresh tarragon, finely chopped
1 chicken stock cube, crumbled
100g cream cheese
Salt and pepper
1 tbsp olive oil
Method:
If making ahead for the fridge or freezer:
1. Place the chicken and pancetta in a large labelled freezer bag.
2. Put the rest of the ingredients into a medium freezer bag and seal.
3. Slide the smaller bag inside the large bag and seal. Freeze flat.
Hob instructions: Remove the bags from the freezer and leave to fully defrost. Place a large, deep-sided casserole dish on a medium heat and add the olive oil. Once hot, add the chicken and pancetta and brown all over. Add the rest of the ingredients and 240ml of water and mix well. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 25 minutes, stirring regularly, until the chicken is cooked through.
Slow cooker instructions: Remove the bags from the freezer and leave to fully defrost. Turn the slow cooker to the sauté setting and add the olive oil. Once hot, add the chicken and pancetta and cook until browned all over. Tip in the rest of the ingredients, pour in 120ml of water and mix well. Pop on the lid and cook for three hours on high, or six hours on low, until the chicken is cooked through.
If cooking now:
Hob instructions: Place a large, deep-sided casserole dish over a medium heat and add the olive oil. Once hot, add the chicken and pancetta and brown all over. Add the rest of the ingredients and 240ml of water and mix well. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 25 minutes, stirring regularly, until the chicken is cooked through.
Slow cooker instructions: Turn the slow cooker to the sauté setting and add the olive oil. Once hot, add the chicken and pancetta and cook until browned all over. Tip in the rest of the ingredients, pour over half a cup 120ml of water and mix well. Pop on the lid and cook for three hours on high, or six hours on low, until the chicken is cooked through.
‘The Batch Lady: Rapid Dinners’ by Suzanne Mulholland (Ebury Press, £22).
Crunchy chicken Caesar dip
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All the flavours of a Caesar salad – chicken, anchovy, garlic and bacon – turned into a scoopable dip (Cara Cormack)
“I like to go fully loaded with this dip, but you can tailor it to suit your tastes,” says trained chef and food stylist Sonali Shah. “Don’t like anchovies? Leave them out. Fancy extra bacon? Go for it!”
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients:
For the dip:
8 tbsp mayonnaise
4 anchovies, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed or finely chopped
2 tbsp lemon juice
200g shredded cooked chicken
2 celery sticks, finely chopped
2 tbsp capers, roughly chopped
4 tbsp ready-made crispy fried onions
50g cooked crispy bacon rashers, roughly chopped
Handful of chives, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the croutons:
1 slice of sourdough bread, torn into small bite-sized chunks
2 tbsp olive oil
Method:
Method:
1. First make the croutons. Line a baking sheet with nonstick baking paper. Add the torn bread and drizzle over the olive oil, tossing to coat. Bake in a preheated oven, 200C/180C fan (400F), gas mark 6, for eight to 10 minutes, or until crispy, stirring the croutons halfway through. Set aside to cool.
2. Combine the mayonnaise, anchovies and garlic in a bowl, then stir in half the lemon juice. Once combined, add the chicken, celery and capers. Stir and taste for seasoning, adding a good grind of black pepper and more lemon juice if needed.
3. Just before serving, stir through the croutons and top the dip with the crispy fried onions, crispy bacon and chives.
Dipping suggestion: Little gem lettuce cups.
‘Dip In: 80 Delicious Dip Recipes For Entertaining, Snacking & Beyond’ by Sonali Shah (Hamlyn, £16.99).
Chicken with pineapple and ‘nduja
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Sweet pineapple and spicy ’nduja melt into the sauce for a bold, sticky chicken dish with real kick (Yuki Sugiura)
“There is no greater union than that of pork and pineapple,” says Ixta Belfrage.
“The pork here comes in the form of ’nduja, a spreadable chilli-spiked sausage from Calabria. Add chicken, pineapple, chipotle and tangerine to the mix and you’ve got yourself a party.”
In this recipe, Belfrage uses tangerines instead of oranges but says you can use whichever is available – as long as you use fresh fruit juice, not from a carton. If your fruit isn’t that sweet, she recommends adding some maple syrup or honey when you add the stock or water.
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs, at room temperature
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed with the side of a knife
1 medium onion, halved and very thinly sliced on a mandolin
½ large, extra-ripe pineapple, peeled (300g)
4 sweet tangerines (or 2 oranges), squeezed to get 100g juice
100g chicken bone broth, stock or water
2 tbsp double cream
5g fresh coriander
1 lime, cut into wedges
For the ’Nduja and chipotle paste:
50g ’nduja paste/spread
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp tomato puree/paste
½ tsp chipotle flakes
½ tsp paprika
¾ tsp fine salt
About 20 twists of freshly ground black pepper
Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 180C fan/200C.
2. Put all the ingredients for the paste into a large bowl and mix together. Add the chicken, garlic and three-quarters of the sliced onion and mix well so everything is coated evenly. Tip the onions and garlic into a 28cm ovenproof cast-iron skillet or similar-sized baking dish and spread out. Place the chicken thighs on top, skin side up and spaced apart.
3. Cut the pineapple into four rounds, then cut each round into quarters, removing the hard core (you should have about 300g). Add the pineapple to the bowl with the remnants of the paste, mix to coat with whatever’s left there, then arrange the pineapple around the chicken.
4. Pour the tangerine juice around the chicken (don’t get the skin wet), then bake for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and pour the stock or water into the pan around the chicken (again, don’t get the skin wet). Return to the oven for another 20–25 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the skin is browned and crispy. If you have a blowtorch, use it to char the pineapple a little.
5. Drizzle the cream into the sauce. Toss the coriander and the remaining sliced onions together with a tiny bit of oil and salt, and arrange on top. Serve from the pan, with the lime wedges alongside.
‘Mezcla: Recipes To Excite’ by Ixta Belfrage (Ebury Press, £26).
Dining and Cooking