I’ve been to Modena, Italy. Two times, in fact. Each time I spent hours at small, family-ownedacetaias, airy attics whereAceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena(Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena) is made.
I ate with the families and downed my share of thick, syrupy balsamic, as dark and glossy as a hand-polished mahogany piano.
Aged for a minimum of 12 years, real-deal balsamic takes on complex flavors aging in successively smaller and smaller wooden barrels. The casks are made of different types of wood, such as cherry, chestnut, oak, mulberry and ash. It reduces in volume during the process, enhancing the flavor and enriching the texture.
The taste is so delectable, a drop or two ofvecchio(old) balsamic (aged at least 12 years) orextravecchio(aged at least 25 years) on a fresh strawberry transforms it into a dish that dazzles the senses. And it does the same on a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, or a pan-seared scallop.
But it wasn’t the consortium-sealed tradizionale balsamic vinegar that was the subject of a recent taste test. No, we didn’t open any 3 1/2-ounce 12-year-old beauties with a price tag of $75 to $90 a bottle, or 25-year-old treasures that demand about twice as much dough.
The Subject: Balsamic on the Cheap
The subject of the test was the inexpensive balsamic vinegars that line the shelves at grocery stores and warehouse markets. The world outside the authentic, where faux balsamic is cheap and the product is thin; where “aging” means less than 12 years.
I was curious about how different brands stack up. I watch shoppers. They buy lots of it. They generally don’t drizzle it atop fruit, but use it in salad dressings and marinades. They add it to soup or pasta to add sweet-tart flavor-bling, or combine it with olive oil to dip chunks of crusty bread.
With vinegars ranging in a price from 21 cents to $1.79 an ounce, none of the eight vinegars were purchased at posh specialty shops (although some came packaged in impressive bottles with pretty labels).
The test wasn’t going to be a pleasant task. Acidity levels would be high and any subtle differences difficult to ascertain.
Brave Panelists
With water and bread on hand, the six panelists gathered at the tables. They included Ryan Adams (executive chef at Sorrento Grille, Laguna Beach), Massimo Navarretta (executive chef-owner of Onotria Wine Country Cuisine Restaurant, Costa Mesa), Phyllis Ann Marshall (president of Food Power Inc, a national restaurant consultancy business), Scott Raczek (executive chef at Mr. Stox Restaurant, Anaheim), Ania Sullivan (retired business executive and enthusiastic home cook), and Becky Trowbridge (caterer and personal chef).
The Test
Yes, I was asking a lot. Some said their noses burned when they tested for aroma. And Italian-born Massimo Navarretta found the whole process disheartening.
“This is not balsamic … Balsamic is made for a dowry, not made for a salad,” he said, referring to the Modena tradition of sending off a bride with a gift barrel of balsamic that was started on the day of her birth. For one of the lowest priced balsamics, he said that the vinegar’s producer should do jail time – five years at least. Another, he said, gave the word “bad” a bad name.
But the panelists agreed that three of the eight were better, adding that all the rest were pretty much the same. Here are the top three:
FIRST PLACE: Kirkland Signature Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (Costo, 33 cents per ounce)
Several judges concurred that the aroma was the most interesting, with a hint of wood. It had the most viscosity, with the best sweet-to-sour balance. One panelist said it was “brighter on the palate.” Another said it they could detect hints of cherries on the nose. Several said that it had the most pleasing finish.
SECOND PLACE: Trader Joe’s Aceto Balsamico di Modena I.G.P. – Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, aged 10 years in oak barrels (Trader Joe’s, 46 cents per ounce)
One judge thought this vinegar had the best balance of flavors, the high acidity buffered and mellowed out. One judge said it reminded him of sweet onion. Another remarked on the finish, saying that it was the only one that didn’t burn the back of the throat. Another noted the texture, commenting that it was still watery, but thicker than many of the other vinegars.
THIRD PLACE: Fini Modena (Sold at many supermarkets and Cost Plus World Market, $1.41 per ounce)
One judge said that he could pick up a hint of vanilla, another noted the pleasant scent of figs. Another said that the finish was pleasingly spicy.
Here are some recipes that use inexpensive, aged-less-than-12-years balsamic:
Recipe: Strawberry Preserves with Black Pepper and Balsamic Vinegar
Recipe: Pork Medallions with Port, Balsamic and Dried Cranberry Sauce
Recipe: Balsamic Salad Dressing
Dining and Cooking