Its chaotic rhythm, infamous traffic, and equally infamous drivers might make Palermo feel a little overwhelming for first-time visitors, but it’s all part of the charm. Sicily’s capital city is home to a wide range of casual homestyle trattorias, seafood spots, fine dining restaurants, wine bars, and places to grab a quick bite after midnight.

Outdoor markets overflow with heaps of spiny artichokes and eggplants, wild fennel fronds, blood oranges, and the occasional offal hanging dramatically on butcher shop hooks. And beyond proper restaurants and pubs, there’s a fantastic street food scene that’s best sampled with an expert cicerone by your side. Use this guide of the best restaurants, bars, sweet shops, pizza spots, and more to map it all out.

Dining and Cooking