Inside French Broad Pastry’s bakery in West Asheville
French Broad Pastry’s owner and staff prepare baked goods at West Asheville commisary kitchen.
Asheville’s French Broad Pastry is expanding its business to include French baguettes and other breads.The bakery is also launching a custom cake program for events like birthdays and weddings.The new bread and cake services will be available at farmers markets and through wholesale to local businesses.
ASHEVILLE – Of all the buttery, sweet and savory baked goods French Broad Pastry makes ― Kouign-amann, frittatas, apple tarts and crumbles and almond twists to start ― assistant pastry chef Kat Willards can’t get enough of the chocolate croissant.
“I love having the sweet chocolate, and the way I eat it, I eat that part last. It’s nice to have the flaky croissant and at the end, savor all that yummy chocolate,” Willards said.
Marie Collecchia, the bakery manager, enjoys taking plain croissants home and using them as vessels for different fillings. And the almond financier is a favorite of assistant pastry chef Wendy Dycus.
“It’s a little gluten-free cake, and especially the chocolate ones are really good. I’m into the chocolate,” Dycus said.
Dune Pierre Michel, a pastry chef and owner of French Broad Pastry, is torn between the fresh-out-of-the-oven plain croissant and the “nourishing” quiches. However, it’s a beloved treat from his adolescence that fuels his recent motivation to acquire a second commissary kitchen in West Asheville to expand the bakery and boost its bread business.
“I’ve been looking for a good baguette in town, and they are good, but they’re not what I remember from childhood, so I want to bring the authentic French baguette,” Michel said.
French Broad Pastry customers have long requested French baguettes, and this will allow the bakery to meet that demand while making other assorted breads made with organic flour, such as French sourdough (or country loaf) and hamburger buns, that will be sold at farmers markets and to restaurants and breweries in Western North Carolina.
French Broad Pastry is also in the midst of a soft launch of its custom cake program, accepting orders for occasions ranging from birthdays to weddings. Flavor options include coconut cake with Italian meringue buttercream, carrot cake with cream cheese frosting, white cake with lemon meringue buttercream, and chocolate with Italian meringue buttercream.
“Since the beginning, customers ask for baguettes at almost every farmers market, so now we’ve got to do it,” Michel said.
French Broad Pastry expands with bread, custom cake services
French Broad Pastry keeps customers lined up for a taste of its assorted fresh-baked products at local farmers markets. French Broad Pastry is a regular vendor at several WNC markets, including the North Asheville Tailgate Market, Asheville City Market and Black Mountain Tailgate Market.
The baking company’s popularity has called for greater community presence, resulting in the bakery hosting pop-ups at local businesses and events, like Highland Brewing, and widening distribution to fill display cases at more coffee shops, including Dripolator, Farewell, Rowan and Antidote Coffee and Cocktail Bar.
Still, customers want more, and Michel and his team are ready to deliver.
“We’re ready for volume. The goal is to have slow fermentation overnight; make the bread in the afternoon, and let it rise in the cooler overnight. This is going to allow us to have fresh bread at the market,” Michel said.
In January 2022, Michel established French Broad Pastry ― then, French Broad Pantry ― focused on French-style pastry techniques. The business operated out of Food Experience Catering Co.’s commissary kitchen on Patton Avenue. The following August, Michel acquired a storefront suite across the street, in the 1500 block of Patton Avenue, which had previously been occupied by Malvern Hills Bakery, and soon expanded into the suite next door, which has also hit full capacity.
The new second commissary kitchen, also in the neighborhood, tucked away off Patton Avenue, was formerly used by the bakery, Simple Bread. It’s outfitted with industrial-sized mixers, tables, and a walk-in cooler to support French Broad Pastry’s new bread production.
“We’ve been practicing, but nothing full speed yet. In a couple of months, we will be fully operating with the bread,” Michel said.
The rise of French Broad Pastry
French Broad Pastry doesn’t have a public-facing brick-and-mortar store. Yet with every step, every operation, and every menu expansion, Michel is getting closer to opening a bakery that customers can visit regularly.
Michel, a native of southern France, said he began baking bread about 20 years ago. Yet it wasn’t until he was living in the San Francisco Bay Area in California that he received formal training in pastry and breadmaking.
“During COVID, when everything shut down, the only businesses open were farmers markets where I went and learned from a French couple, called Adorable French Bakery. They were doing pretty much what we are doing now, in terms of offering croissants at farmers markets,” he said.
This winter, Michel also became the co-operator of the new North Carolina Arboretum’s Arbor Eatery, supplying sweet and savory treats and dishes in partnership with Food Experience Catering Company owner Tony Franco.
Michel has steadily developed his long-term business plan, practicing the same patience and care that he applies to baking. And as others took him into their fold, he’s doing the same, teaching the next generation of bakers.
“We have quality control, because there’s so many ways to fail during the steps of making croissants. It takes three days to make croissants ― the first day is the dough, second day the lamination, the third day is the shaping and baking,” Michel said.
With the addition of French Broad Pastry’s bread and cake services, Michel will soon welcome three new staff members, including a head baker, to his team of six full-time and 12 part-time employees, to manage the business expansion.
French Broad Pastry employees are often taught on the job and promoted from within.
“It’s hard, and I think they appreciate being given the space to learn and fail and grow with us. They learn to manage and teach new hires and grow with the company,” Michel said.
Collecchia, who is from Brittany, France, said she learned to bake when she began working at French Broad Pastry three years ago, and is looking forward to the regular bread service for retail and wholesale customers.
“As Europeans, and as French people, especially, we are always complaining about finding good quality bread, especially in America. It’s a great chance for us to bring traditional products and quality products, expanding the palates in America,” Collecchia said.
Likewise, Michel foresees a bright future as he pays homage to his home country and heritage.
“Being French is what sets us apart, and we have a deep culture with bread, so we’re going to bring this to the Asheville community, and it’s going to be exciting,” Michel said.
French Broad Pastry
Where: Various farmers markets and coffee shops.
Info: For more, visit frenchbroadpastry.com and follow @frenchbroadpastry/ on Instagram.
Tiana Kennell is the food and dining reporter for the Asheville Citizen Times, part of the USA Today Network. Tips, comments, questions? Email tkennell@citizentimes.com or follow @PrincessOfPage on Instagram. Sign up for AVL Bites and Brews, our weekly food and drink newsletter here.
Dining and Cooking