Two years ago, Patrick Cappiello had a harebrained idea: Could he reinvent one of the most famous wine tastings in history?
In 1976, the Judgment of Paris upended the wine world when French wine professionals, tasting blind, ranked several California wines above their French counterparts. The outcome marked a new era for California wine, which had long been overshadowed by those from Europe.
For Cappiello, winemaker and owner of Monte Rio Cellars in Sebastopol, a do-over wouldn’t foster a rivalry between California against France. Instead, it would champion American wine producers weathering an industry downturn.
“Now is the time to be innovative in the wine industry,” said Cappiello, once a leading New York sommelier. “I don’t want to give in to the idea that wine is dead. This tasting helps our mission to keep wine alive.”
Patrick Cappiello opens wines during first phase of the 1976 Redo at Pax Wines in Sebastopol. (James Joiner)
This week, “The 1976 Redo” culminated at Smithereens in New York City, where 12 judges blind-tasted 20 American wines and 20 from France, including Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Cappiello announced the results on Instagram Live.
The finale marked the end of a two-year journey for Cappiello, who launched the project with a call for U.S. wine entries in 2024. Ultimately, he received roughly 1,000 entries spanning 11 states, with 20 finalists blind-selected by nine judges at Sebastopol’s Pax Wines.
The first phase of the 1976 Redo kicked off in 2024 when nine judges blinded tasted over 1,000 wine entries at Pax Wines in Sebastopol. (James Joiner)
Wolfgang Weber assesses wines during the first phase of the 1976 Redo at Pax Wines in Sebastopol. (James Joiner)
The French wines were chosen from a survey of 100 beverage professionals, who identified benchmark producers in each category: Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Lafitte and the like. Some were sourced through trade partners, others through submission fees, with a few on Cappiello’s own dime.
Peter Stegner, co-owner of Parea Wines in Windsor, submitted his Sonoma Coast Chardonnay in hopes of boosting his fledgling brand.
“As an upstart, how could we not throw our hat into the ring? We had nothing to lose,” said Stegner, who founded Parea with his wife, Shannon. “The industry is going through a tough time, and Patrick has been a huge advocate for American wine. We’re so appreciative of his efforts.”
“As an upstart, how could we not throw our hat into the ring? said Peter Stegner, co-owner of Parea Wines with his wife, Shannon. ““We had nothing to lose.” (Parea Wines)
While the Stegners didn’t have anything to lose, they had plenty to gain. Parea Wines’ 2021 Chardonnay from H. Klopp Vineyard ranked among the top five U.S. Chardonnays.
“As a small producer, we’re incredibly honored by the recognition from The 1976 Redo,” said Stegner. “We want nothing more than to continue making wines that showcase our regions and all the wonderful people who work hard to make it possible.”
Joel Burt, co-owner of Las Jaras Wines in Sonoma, was “speechless” when he learned their Chenin Blanc came in first place.
“I’ve spent so many years obsessing over and learning from the world’s best Chenin. To come out on top over two of my hero wines from (France’s) Samur is truly mind-boggling,” said Burt, cofounder of Las Jaras with Eric Wareheim. “This (tasting) has been a great way to connect with many key players in the wine world, and it’s excited to see New World Chenin showing so well.”
In the Syrah category, Lioco Wines’ 2022 vintage from the Santa Cruz Mountains placed second overall. For winemaker Matt Licklider, the ranking came as a surprise given the Healdsburg-based winery is best known for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
“Our Syrah has a small, but loyal, following — mostly industry folks and other winemakers,” said winemaker Matt Licklider, whose Lioco Wines’ 2022 Syrah from the Santa Cruz Mountains placed second in the category. (Jeff Bramwell)
“Our Syrah has a small, but loyal, following — mostly industry folks and other winemakers — so we’re very surprised and honored to represent in the category,” said Licklider, who owns Lioco with his wife, Sara. “We believe California’s cold climate Syrahs rival the best in the world.”
Taking risks
For Cappiello, The 1976 Redo was an experiment in patience and determination, just like making wine — and building permits. His brand-new wine bar and shop, Outpost Cellar, is currently under construction at Café Aquatica in Jenner.
“I’m proud of the work we’ve done and think the California wines showed really well,” he said. “It’s time for the industry to take some risks.”
The final U.S. wines
Chenin Blanc
Clendenen Family Vineyards 2023 Chenin Blanc, Rancho La Cuna, Santa Barbara County
Keatley Wines 2023 Chenin Blanc, Camino Alto Vineyard, El Dorado County
Landmass Wines 2022 Chenin Blanc, Saint Morand Vineyard, Rogue Valley
Las Jaras Wines 2022 Cuvée Esmé Anne, Mendocino County
Minus Tide Wines 2023 Chenin Blanc, Sterling Ranch, Mendocino County
Chardonnay
Birichino 2021 Chardonnay, Peter Martin Ray Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains
Donelan Wines 2021 Chardonnay, Genevieve’s Block, DeVoto Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Flâneur Wines 2021 Bon Vivant Chardonnay, Willamette Valley
Parea Wines 2021 Chardonnay, H. Klopp Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Smith-Madrone 2021 Chardonnay, Spring Mountain District
Cabernet Sauvignon
Alta Orsa Winery 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Soil Series Estate, Mendocino County
Benevolent Neglect 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Meadowbrook Vineyard, Oak Knoll District
Drive 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Asti Ridge Vineyards, Alexander Valley
Groth 2021 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Mayacamas Vineyards 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mayacamas Vineyard, Mt. Veeder, Napa Valley
Syrah
Foxen 2021 Syrah, Tinaquaic Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley
Lioco 2022 Syrah, Caleta, Santa Cruz Mountains
Rocky Pond Estate Winery 2022 Syrah, Columbia Valley
Scar of the Sea 2021 Syrah, Bassi Vineyard, San Luis Obispo County
Outward Wines 2021 Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley
The final results
Best Chenin Blanc: Las Jaras Wines 2022 Cuvée Esmé Anne, Mendocino County
Best Chardonnay: Flâneur Wines 2021 Bon Vivant Chardonnay, Willamette Valley
Best Cabernet Sauvignon: Château Latour 2017, Pauillac, France
Best Syrah: Scar of the Sea 2021 Syrah, Bassi Vineyard, San Luis Obispo County
Dining and Cooking