Thinking of heading to Oz for a few days and a few cocktails? Sarah Lang wonder if Sydney is the Negroni capital of the South Pacific
In Florence, Italy, in 1919, Count Camillo Negroni – who liked a strong drink – stepped into Caffè Casoni, his usual haunt, and asked bartender Fosco Scarselli for a twist on his favourite drink, the Americano, but with something more bite than the usual seltzer. Fosco reached for the gin and so the Negroni was born: made of equal parts gin, sweet vermouth and Campari. The Caffè’s customers began ordering “Americano con un tocco di gin”, or simply “un Negroni”, with a garnish of an orange slice. So thank you, Count, and Fosco, because this is by far my favourite cocktail. It’s so dang refreshing, with just the right mix of bitter and sweet.
Visiting Sydney recently, I felt inspired to do a bit of a Negroni-athon (not all in the same day, of course). I started at Bar Morris, whose Negroni Hour (5-6 pm) celebrates its signature cocktail, which pairs with the bar’s blood-orange colour scheme. Whatever the hour, six of its 15 cocktails are Negronis. Sip one on a velvet chair or a tall stool under some stunning art deco Murano chandeliers. Bar Morris is also an Italian restaurant: think panini sandos and Pumpkin & Ricotta Gnocchi by day, and Beef Ribeye and Baked Cauliflower Parmigiana by night.
But Bar Morris isn’t just an Italian cocktail bar and restaurant. In a very clever use of space, one corner of it is the foyer of a 14-storey Hotel Morris. In 1929, Italian architect Virgil Dante Cizzio designed this narrow building in a rare example of the Inter-War Palazzo style, based upon the palazzi (palaces) built by wealthy families of the Italian Renaissance. The two huge 1930s steel-framed glass doors of the entrance are quite something, as are the original, almost church-like arched windows on the floor above.
There are seven kinds of rooms mine was surprisingly roomy for such a narrow building. It had a sofa area, a table and chair where I could open my laptop or have a cuppa; and a roomy glass shower. I also loved the large arched windows that let the light flood in. And the hotel is surprisingly quiet for so central a location in bustling Haymarket.
Negroni central
Next to Haymarket in the CBD-adjacent suburb of Surry Hills, a busy road spills into the quieter streets with their historic terraced townhouses. One corner is home to Bar Conte, which proprietor Raffaelle Lombardi calls the world’s only dedicated negroni bar. The Negroni has been his cocktail of choice since he was a young man living on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. Bar Conte is a gem. Eat in the small restaurant, perch on a bar stool, or sit outdoors. The ceiling is exposed timber and original bricks, while vintage posters sourced by Raffaelle from Italy enliven the orange walls.
It’s not easy to choose from 23 negronis, but your waiter can advise you! The Sacred Negroni, with an indescribable tang, is perhaps the best Negroni I’ve ever had. The menu is focused on sharing plates like the bruschetta stracciatella speck with marinated eggplant, or hog your own dish such as the marinated octopus salad with garlic emulsion.
Bar Conte’s negroni
Sydney’s Bar Conte has proved so popular that the owners took the concept to the CBD, opening a much larger, two-storey establishment last year. Known as Conte, sometimes as Conte Clarence St, it’s their second dedicated negroni bar, with a bigger restaurant. It’s also visually gorgeous, with more vintage posters sourced by Raffaelle. Perch at the green marble bar to watch your Negronis being made. Choose from more than 30 (yes, really) takes on the Negroni – including a Nut & Spice Negroni, a Chocolate Negroni, and a Beetroot Negroni.
Like its sister establishment, Conte Clarence St has a ‘Three Shades of Negroni’ tasting platter. It has three different Negronis in green, white and red colours to reflect the Italian flag. Have a sip of the Verde and a bite of its accompanying canape, do the same with the Bianco, then the Rosso, then change direction from right to left and back again. It’s fun. There are three set menus – or you can order from the à la carte menu, where tapas also feature. The gnocchi di Patate was delicious. Negroni tiramisu? Don’t mind if I do. It’s rich and decadent – maybe one to share.
Raffaelle’s wife Victoria Hampshire did an incredible job designing the elegant, classic interior of both Contes.
Street Appeal
Five kilometres from the CBD is Newtown, easily accessible by public transport, with the busy shopping strip King Street spilling into quieter streets with those eye-catching old terraced townhouses. Paisano and Daughters – a highly regarded hospitality business founded by two brothers-in-law and named for their seven daughters – owns and runs four destination dining establishments side by side in a 1911 heritage-listed building on Australia Street.
There’s the New York-inspired restaurant Joe’s Tavern, seafood restaurant Mister Grotto, Italian restaurant Osteria Mucca, and Continental Deli Bar Bistro. At the latter, thick strings of garlic and empty cocktail tins hang from the ceiling. Grab a seat by the window, or perch at the counter/bar to enjoy snacks or small meals like platters of cheese and charcuterie, or tinned fish; the lunch menu’s sandwiches are outstanding. It’s a deli in the daytime, and a cocktail bar and bistro in the evening.
You must try (or take away) one of Continental Deli’s pre-mixed cocktails, which canned onsite using a vintage machine intended for tinned fish. The names are fun puns: the signature Mar-tinny, plus the Cosmopoli-tin, Can-Hattan, Mexi-CAN (Margarita), Spicy Mexi-CAN, and the un-pun-able Negroni. My ‘Negroni from a tin’ was as good as any freshly made one. If you’re lucky, you’ll be attended by Mikey Nicolian, the restaurants’ manager and the resident drinks experts, having honed his skills at top London hotspots. He says there are many more versions of Negronis than you might expect. He favours a red Spanish vermouth and Beefeater gin.
The Continental Negroni in a can. Photo: Hugh O’Brien
Above three of the restaurants are the Australia St Suites: three boutique, two-bedroom apartments (also run by Paisano And Daughters).I know where I want to stay next time I’m in Sydney. Heck, I may not even leave the street.
Fine Dining
If you’re looking for fine dining and cutting-edge contemporary cuisine, head to 25 Martin Place: a 67-storey heritage-listed modernist building that dominates the city skyline. Two years ago, The International (internationalsydney.com) opened comprised of two bars and a restaurant over three storeys. A distinctive curved exterior wall creates interesting spaces.
The Grill at the International is something special focusing on seasonality and simplicity. Under the direction of renowned chef Joel Bickford, the food is not based on a specific type of international cuisine; rather, it combines fine dining with dishes cooked over fire, with meat dishes and seafood a specialty. Caviar and oysters are also stars of the menu.
You can watch the chefs working when you walk past, and the waiters are so attentive and unobtrusive that everything turns up at the table almost without you realising. You’ll definitely notice, though, when the Grilled Southern Rock Lobster with fermented chilli butter, sea greens, and potato bread comes out. It’s huge, thus absolutely made to share. There are also four Chef’s Selections set menus which mix and match combinations of dishes: think Prawn Crumpet with anchovy cream; Snapper Crudo with green apple, honeydew, macadamia; and Caramelised Basque Cheesecake Tart.
Continental Deli. Photographer: Hugh O’Brien
The orange colour palette of The Grill extends to the rooftop Panorama Bar. In this indoor-outdoor cocktail bar, tropical ferns hug the curved wall on one side, and on the other side is an extremely long, eye-catching bar where you can watch the mixologists doing their thing. It’s just the right mix of fancy and relaxed, with comfortable couches surrounding fire pits. And they make a great Negroni!
Also part of the International, a storey below The Grill, the Wine Bar has a more casual feel, as a piazza-style take on a traditional wine bar, with comfy curved couches, and a 60-seat dining room, with some tables in an outside courtyard. It’s the perfect place to head for a long lunch with a sneaky mimosa. There are three main menus, plus a fun Sips + Snacks menu. And does whether it offers a good Negroni? It sure does: a blackcurrant version.
If you have time to spare before a flight, or just want to go somewhere lovely, visit The Grounds of Alexandria at The Potting Shed, near Sydney airport. It’s effectively a greenhouse with tables – a riot of colour with potted plants hanging from the ceiling, bursting from freestanding terracotta pots, walls of living plants, and a literal arched ceiling made of plants in the outdoor area. And does it make a Negroni? It sure does.
*Sarah Lang was hosted by Tourism Australia, and also did a personal trip later
Dining and Cooking