I have watched The Sopranos at least once in every decade of this century. That is not an exaggeration. And every time I go back — and there is always a reason to go back — I pick up something new. A look between characters. A line I missed. A detail in the background that means something different now than it did the first time.
Last year, between January and July, I was between full-time gigs. I kept myself busy — around the house, working out, looking for the next chapter. But I gave myself one hour a day of Sopranos. Sometimes more on rainy days. And every single time Tony and Agent Harris were enjoying pork sandwiches outside Satriale’s, or the family was sitting down to Sunday pasta and sausage, I got hungry.
Sunday dinner, Jersey style — and why it felt like home
Those Sunday dinners hit differently for me. My Italian mother had Sunday pasta every week without fail — always early afternoon, always at the table, no exceptions. Afterward we would head to my Sicilian grandparents’ house and there were always Italian snacks waiting. Watching the Soprano family gather around that table felt like watching my own childhood with better lighting and considerably more federal surveillance.
These days I cook a lot more after getting off the air and I am always looking for ideas. Turns out I never had to look any further than the show itself.
Photo by Ryan Scott on Unsplash
Photo by Ryan Scott on UnsplashTen dishes straight from the Sopranos table — and the stories behind them
AJ’s “No Fuckin’ Ziti” Baked Ziti The dish that launched a thousand memes. Tony tells Livia to bring her baked ziti to AJ’s birthday party. She cancels. AJ’s reaction is the most Jersey thing ever committed to television. Carmela’s version — three cheeses, sweet sausage, baked until bubbling — is the one worth making.
Janice’s Lasagna — actually Carmela’s Janice served it at the Sunday table like she made it herself. She did not. Carmela made it. Classic Janice. Classic lasagna. Make Carmela’s version and take full credit. That is what she would want.
Father Phil’s Penne alla Vodka He showed up at the Soprano house during a storm and had a jones for Carmela’s cooking. She made him penne. He came back for more. Eventually Carmela figured out what he was really hungry for — and dumped a fresh pot of pasta in a trash can outside the church. The penne did nothing wrong.
Photo by Liu water on Unsplash
Photo by Liu water on Unsplash
Satriale’s Gabagool Sandwich Agent Harris loved these. The FBI spent years surveilling the Soprano crew from across the street and the pork store sandwiches were the one honest relationship in the whole operation. Capicola, sharp provolone, hot peppers, good bread. No warrant required.
Artie’s Prosciutto — not intended as a weapon Artie flicked a slice at Tony’s face during an argument in Tony’s kitchen. It stuck to his eyebrow. Tony threw one back. What started as a fight became a food fight became a reminder that these two genuinely loved each other. Serve it with melon and try not to throw any.
Bobby Bacala’s Frozen Ziti After Karen passed, Bobby kept her last tray of ziti in the freezer for months. Nobody touched it. When he finally ate it, it was one of the quietest and most devastating moments in the whole series. Make Karen’s ziti. Eat it while it’s warm.
Photo by Jovan Vasiljević on Unsplash
Photo by Jovan Vasiljević on Unsplash
Uncle Junior’s Pasta Fazool “Mama always cooked. No one died of too much cholesterol or some such crap.” Junior was wrong about a lot of things. He was not wrong about this. Cannellini beans, ditalini, good olive oil. Simple and perfect.
Tony’s Backyard Sausages from Satriale’s He was grilling when the ducks first landed in his pool. He was grilling when he had his first panic attack. The sausages from Satriale’s were a constant. Fennel sausage, charcoal, no lighter fluid shortcuts — Tony was very clear about that.
Paulie’s Macaroni and Gravy — ordered in Naples The crew went to Italy for business. Paulie sat down at a proper Italian restaurant and asked the waiter for macaroni and gravy. The Italians were horrified. Paulie did not care. Make Sunday gravy the way your grandmother made it and serve it on rigatoni. Never apologize.
SEE ALSO: Why the Sopranos never filmed in the NJ Pine Barrens
Photo by John Thomas on Unsplash
Photo by John Thomas on Unsplash
Carmela’s Duck — a recipe she would make with great disdain Tony loved those ducks. He cried when they left. He had panic attacks about them leaving. Carmela watched all of this with the quiet resignation of a woman who had seen everything. In their honor — and with Carmela’s complete emotional detachment — duck braised in white wine, garlic, rosemary and tomato. Slow. Rich. Jersey Italian through and through. Tony would be furious. Carmela would say it was just dinner.
New huge Italian Market coming to Monmouth County this week
Gallery Credit: Dennis Malloy
Dining and Cooking