Barely a year old, the sage-green bistro Margo is already drawing crowds with its delightful pithiviers and refined takes on French comfort classics. Its chef-owner, Wilfrid Hocquet, has earned the Opening of the Year award presented by UOB — a testament to his belief that quality need not be confined to fine dining establishments. The seasoned chef from the south of France shares his story, lessons learned and the importance of believing in one’s dreams.
What were you doing before Margo? “I’ve worked for Alain Ducasse for a total of 14 years and was at Blue by Alain Ducasse (One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2026) in Bangkok for the past six. But I’ve been in F&B my whole life — I started working at 13 or 14 during the summers and finished culinary school at 20.
I think every chef wants to open their own restaurant, but the most difficult part for me is doing it when you already have a good position at places like Blue or within a big company. The stakes are higher, and leaving that security for entrepreneurship is risky.
But then the opportunity came. I felt I had the right partners at the right time, and I was convinced I could bring something different to the market.”
“Trust your vision. Believe in what you do and work hard for it.”
Bigoli carbonara, rich with smoked pork belly and pecorino. © Nick Hargun/Margo, Anuwat Senivansa Na Ayudhya/MICHELIN Guide
What was the inspiration for Margo? “I wanted Margo to be a neighborhood bistro — a place where people who live nearby can come every week. That’s been a bit challenging, because people who know me associate my work with fine dining. They come with certain expectations, even when you’re trying to keep things simple and approachable.
In terms of the food, I wanted it to be recognizable and easy to understand. Flavor-wise and in my style, I like incorporating fruit into both sweet and savory dishes. It’s mostly French cuisine, but with a modern twist in the plating, seasoning and techniques.
Even though it’s a French bistro, we try to use as many Thai ingredients as possible — to keep prices accessible and to support local farmers. I want to offer fair prices while bringing fine dining techniques into a bistro setting.”
How do you feel about being the recipient of the Opening of the Year? “We’ll always be happy to receive a MICHELIN Star, but that wasn’t our goal — we don’t want people to feel like it’s expensive. Often, people associate a Star with high prices, so for us, this was the perfect recognition, especially since we’ve just opened.
I was very happy and proud — of myself, the team, our partners and everyone who worked hard to make it happen.”
Wilfrid Hocquet, the Southern French chef known for his sharp style and precision, now brings his signature finesse to a new bistro kitchen. © Anuwat Senivansa Na Ayudhya/MICHELIN Guide
What does this award mean to you? “The best thing about this award is the confidence it gave me — in myself and in my vision, what I want to offer and what I can achieve. It’s an event mainly centered around fine dining, so it’s a bit funny that a bistro won.
For me, it reaffirmed my decision to leave fine dining and open my own restaurant — to do something simpler, more accessible and easygoing, while still keeping the essence of great recipes and quality ingredients.”
What is the key to Margo’s success? “The right concept at the right time. You can have a great idea, but if the timing isn’t right, people won’t be interested in coming to try it. We’re in a moment when people are a bit tired of fine dining, omakase or not having a choice with tasting menus. After COVID, many don’t want to spend too much, and a bistro gives you the freedom to choose how long you stay, how much you eat and how much you spend.
What I do well is take a dish, redesign it using the same ingredients and present it in a beautiful way. I aim to make things elegant but keep them simple — not too labor-intensive for the team, which helps keep costs down. In fine dining, you’ll always see beautiful plates from MICHELIN-Starred [restaurant] chefs, but it often requires a large team to execute.
That’s what makes the difference here: you don’t need to spend a lot to enjoy the food of a MICHELIN-Starred [restaurant] chef — it’s the same ingredients and techniques, just more accessible.”
“This award reaffirmed my decision to leave fine dining and open my own restaurant. It’s the right concept at the right time.”
Hocquet brings polished French classics to this lively, design-forward space, which opened in July 2025. © Anuwat Senivansa Na Ayudhya/MICHELIN Guide
What was an important lesson you’ve learned from opening Margo? “I’m grateful to my partner for helping me understand that what you put into a restaurant doesn’t determine its success. It’s not about silver cutlery or expensive plates — we achieved this without spending a lot of money.
What really matters is having a strong concept and bringing that idea to life on the plate. That’s where your attention and energy should go. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to be successful — otherwise, only big companies or wealthy investors would succeed.”
What tips do you have for chefs who look up to you? “Trust your vision — that’s what I said at the award ceremony. Believe in what you do and work hard for it. For me, it’s not about talent; it’s about hard work. I’ve invested my life in F&B. I don’t come from a wealthy background — I started with nothing.
You can start from nothing and build something by believing in what you do and not waiting for everything to be perfect before presenting it to guests. Don’t wait too long, and be confident in yourself. It may sound simple, but it’s true. It took me many years to build the confidence to say, ‘I’m going to do it.’”
Header image: Wilfrid Hocquet at Margo in Sathorn, Bangkok. © Anuwat Senivansa Na Ayudhya/The MICHELIN Guide
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The MICHELIN Guide
Dining and Cooking