Lamb is the protein of choice for many Easter celebrations, mine included. And I take my flavour cues from the Greek culinary playbook. That means garlic, oregano, mint, lemon juice and olive oil in the marinade, be it lamb chops, leg or shoulder. Lemon-roasted potatoes with more garlic, oregano, lemon juice and olive oil, is the classic accompaniment along with a salad of greens accented with Kalamata olives and feta.
For Pascha, the Greek Orthodox Easter tradition — celebrated this year on April 12 — Gregory Condon of Theo’s restaurant will be slow roasting a whole lamb on Saturday, April 11. In Greece, lamb would traditionally be roasted over hardwood such as oak or olive. At Theo’s it will be slow-roasted over coals on the front outdoor patio. It’s been a tradition at the restaurant since 2021, overseen by Condon’s good friend, longtime local restaurateur and fellow Greek, Spiro. “He is a genius when it comes to the Greek culinary arts,” says Condon.
“Our lamb is seasoned with sea salt, pepper, Greek oregano, olive oil, fresh lemon and dry white wine,” Condon explains. “And bits of garlic cloves are embedded into the lamb during roasting.”
I stand in solidarity with this technique. I use it when preparing leg of lamb — letting it marinate with studded garlic and bits of rosemary, a massage of olive oil and salt, and leave overnight to create flavour magic in the fridge before roasting. At Theo’s the coals will be ready by noon, and the lamb should be ready by 5 p.m., transported by two strong people to the kitchen before being portioned.
During the roasting process, Spiro, I am told, will be outside — maybe sipping on Retsina — basting the lamb in the oregano and lemon marinade mentioned above, using large tied-together bunches of oregano stalks as the basting brush.
Condon predicts they will have approximately 24 generous portions ready for diners, and the succulent and flavourful results will be served alongside Theo’s classic Greek roasted potatoes, rice pilaf and roasted vegetables.
If Retsina, or Ouzo, is not your thing, Condon suggests pairing the lamb with a full-bodied red wine with good structure and rich tannins.
He has several Okanagan suggestions from his wine list including The Judge from Hester Creek, the Syrah from Burrowing Owl, and the Reserve Pinot Noir from Moraine Winery on Naramata Bench. We are also seeing an uptick in Greek wine selections on liquor store shelves, and Theo’s has a few including those made from 100-percent Agiorgitiko grapes grown in the dry, infertile vineyards of the Nemea region of the Peloponnese.
That terroir, where the vines have to struggle, produces fewer – but highly concentrated – grapes known for their plummy and spicy characteristics, the strength of the latter dependent on the altitude they are grown. I look forward to exploring the nuances of this varietal wine in the future.
I’m staying local for my lamb and wine pairing this Easter, with the award-winning 2022 Cabernet Franc Reserve from Kismet Estate Winery in Oliver. It offers hints of herbs and violets on the nose, with a touch of pepper. On the palate it’s silky smooth with dark berry fruit on the finish and bright minerality. It’s a triumph for winemaker Manpreet Dhaliwal, Canada’s first and only South Asian female head winemaker, who has been named to the BCBusiness 30 Under 30 Class of 2026, recognized for her leadership in shaping the winery’s next chapter in the South Okanagan. The wine — an early-release gift — is estimated to be released to the public this coming June. To reserve, check the winery’s website, kismetestatewinery.com To reserve your seat at the Greek Easter table at Theo’s next Saturday, call the restaurant, 250-492-4019.
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Dining and Cooking