Tokuha Motonari, Kyoto (Tabelog Gold)

Back to Tokuha Motonari catching the hanasansho season. Hanasansho is one of the most prized seasonal ingredients in Japan since it is only available for a short period of time in April and has a distinctive citrusy flavor while leaving a tingling sensation on the tongue. The menu reflects Hinamatsuri, the Girl Festival, and many of the traditional dishes served like chirashi sushi, hamaguri and sakura mochi were incorporated and reinterpreted. The selection of dishes reflecting the monthly theme is particularly strong this time and I wonder if the chef will lean more in this direction in the future.

Overall a very strong meal and exceptional value at ¥33k for food. Can't think of another high level kaiseki in Kyoto at or near this price point. No wonder it is packed with locals who all seem to visit regularly. Interesting to see how chef Matsumoto has continued to develop his own style with the use of sauces and innovation such as rice ice cream with katsuobushi. Will post my meal at Ogata on the next night later and the pair makes for an interesting comparison since they were both from the Wakuden lineage but have evolved quite differently stylistically

Iidako, Fuki, Takenoko, Wasabi stem, Namako, Jelly

Shredded Egg, Sushi Rice, Uni, Maguro

– play on chirashi sushi. undertone of sweetness in the shari brought together the different components

Akagai, Hokkigai, Tairagai, Awabi, Kuromebaru

– kuromebaru has a special shinkejimei type of treatment from its fisherman in Akashi

Hamaguri Shinjo, Takenoko, Warabi

– shinjo has a very elegant almost alcohol like aroma

Grilled Amadai, Kinome Oroshi

Hanasansho, Beef Shabu Shabu

– very generous amount of hanasansho

Grilled Beef, Hanasansho, Tare

– different take from the traditional nabe style. Each component has stronger flavor here but didn't meld together as well. I prefer the traditional shabu shabu

Grilled Yurine, Shiitake

– yurine is ok but not very sweet

Fried Fukinoto, Hotaru Ika

– also the very tail end of bitter sansai season. There is a carrot sauce at the bottom and while I normally like their sauce, this one was just ok

Ankou Shiro Miso, Ankimo Ponzu

– great texture on the ankou meat with a soft bounciness

Grilled Iwashi, Rice

– some sort of grill fish is always served with white rice here. The iwashi was very large and grilled to perfection. Soft juicy meat as if it has been steamed

Fish Tendon

– quite full by now and forgot what fish this was

Kiritanpo, Karasumi

– like a karasumi mochi but using grilled rice instead

Sakura Yokan

– sakura mochi is normally eaten around this time has been turned into a yokan. Some domiyoji-ko glutinous powder has been added as is traditional with how sakura mochi in Kansai is made

Strawberry, Okome Katuobushi Ice Cream

– this has become a signature on last few visits. Rice ice cream with some katsuobushi