Meaty Stews | Milk Street TV Season 7, Episode 7

This episode is a carnivore’s delight, as we spotlight our favorite meat-centered dishes. Inspired by a trip to Brazil, Christopher Kimball prepares a Brazilian Black Bean Stew with Pork and Beef brightened with orange juice. Next, Milk Street Cook Sam Fore makes Spanish Chorizo, Ham and White Bean Stew with a deeply flavorful broth. To finish, Milk Street Cook Rose Hattabaugh whips up a comforting Italian Sausage and Mushroom Ragù with Pappardelle.

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This is so good and it’s not heavy it’s not one of those real muddy murky beef stews it’s very light for something that comes together so quickly with such little effort it has huge bold flavors and it’s rich and Hearty now Italian sausage and mushroom Ragu it is so

Earthy delicious lots of flavors little hint of cinnamon and it takes less than an hour I hope you’ll try It All of us have made the classic American beef stew or maybe even the French B bero but every culture has its own version starting today with a rich and Meaty Brazilian black bean stew with pork and beef and then we do a Spanish chizo ham and white bean stew and

Finally a ragu from Italy with sausage and mushrooms please stay Tuned for For Foree Fore I love Bean stews and this one is from Brazil it’s called fada it’s black beans with different cuts of meat now those cuts used to be mostly from the pig sort of the parts nobody wanted and then it became a little more middle class or high class with better Cuts so we’re

Going to do it with some sausage we’re going to do it with some short ribs do it with a ham Hawk but it’s a wonderful way to take fairly inexpensive ingredients and turn them into a great stew so we’re going to start with a little bit of bacon which has been

Browning and now we’re going to start with some Sofrito some vegetables as the base for the stew so we have a celery of course by the way this dish sometimes is served deconstructed that is if you go to a buffet have a big pot of beans and then

The meat is separate so you can choose what you want to add to the beans we’re going to cook everything together for this recipe today some cilantro very often in cooking especially in Central and South America you reserve the leaves which are coarsely chop but then we’ll take the stems which

Viously a little coarser and they have a lot of flavor though that’s true also a parsley and we’ll finally dice them and we can put them into the stew at the beginning so let’s add this to the uh bacon these are the stems we have the

Celery so one of the things we want to do here is get the balance right so the balance of obviously safr with the onions the celery the cilantro some bay leaves some garlic of course and and a little cumin and just a half a teaspoon of pepper so we’re going to sauté this

Until things nicely soften just a few minutes now part of the secret of this dish or the magic is how do you take all this meat and beans and make something that doesn’t feel too heavy well part of it is the balance between the beans and

The meat the other issue is how do you lighten it up traditionally it’s served with orange slices which you can squeeze over the top we’re actually going to incorporate some orange orange juice there’s a little bit of alcohol in here too and there’s also tomatoes so nice Sofrito Tomatoes orange juice a little

Bit of alcohol in it and just the right balance of meat and beans and you end up with a great dish that’s not too heavy so the vegetables the Sofrito are soft and now let’s add a couple of things that really make this special this is kassa it’s made from sugar cane

It’s a Brazilian lur or alcohol you can use rum of course if you don’t have that and then this dish is usually served with slices of orange but we’re going to put orange directly into it to lighten it up a little bit it’s also good just to De glaze the pan if there’s

Any round bits there so now we have our black beans here at Mo stre we often suggest soaking beans overnight in salted water that plumps them up you get a nice creamy texture it turns out however with black beans you don’t have to do that it’ll take about 20 minutes

Or half an hour more to cook them but we’re going to cook these for a few hours in this and they’re going to get nice and plump and soft and by the way for those of you who sort of cook your beans you really want beans fully cooked

It’s one of those things that’s great when it’s fully cooked not so great when it’s half cooked so put the beans in and now 3 and A2 quarts of water one of the other reasons we can cook the beans so long in this recipe the orange juice has some acidity to it

Acidity tends to slow down the cooking of beans and they’re going to get really nice and soft and creamy and plump so we’re up to a simmer with the beans and the sofo now one of the things we did with this recipe is we did cut back on

The amount of meat because some of these recipes we found actually had a huge amount so we have beef short ribs put in and our secret ingredient which are smoked ham Hawks by the way just in general if you’re making any kind of a a

Meat stew if you want to put in a ham hack or two it adds a lot of flavor because they’re smoked so we’re going to cook this for 2 hours uncovered and the reason we do that is so this liquid the 3 and2 quart starts to reduce and concentrate flavor eventually this meat

Will be pulled out and shredded and put back in so it’s mostly a dish of beans uh with some meat instead of being a heavy meat stew with a few beans so it’s been a couple hours now the meat is getting nice and soft there’s a lot of bone in the short ribs

Of course and also in the ham hackk so there isn’t all that much meat so we’ll add a little more some linguista sausage uh you could use a fresh chizo as well and we’re going to put that in again we’re going to let this cook uncovered

This time for about an hour and a half or so meanwhile this is often served with a simple salsa on top the same thing would be true when you have a bean dish in Mexico for example so tomato one onion chopped and the coarsely chopped cilantro salt half a teaspoon little pepper as

Well the nice thing about some of these sauces if you salt them a little bit and let them sit they’re really nice an hour or two later so there’s that fresh salsa uh we’ll come back an hour and a half the linguisa should be cooked uh the rest of

The meat should be cooked we can take it out shredd it add it back uh and we’re almost done okay cooking is over we took the short ribs and the ham Hawks out and shredded and then linguis is also done and now the shore ribs and the ham

Hawks and these beans I’ll just take one out are they’re really creamy and they’re fully cooked as I said nothing worse than almost cooked beans you really want to cook them through and there you have it we have a great fada a great black bean stew some sausage short

Ribs ham Hawk now you can make the salsa just before serving if you want we made it earlier uh we kept it in the fridge to keep it nice I like lots of salsa uh a little bit of salt and pepper as well and this is

Served with slices of orange as I said before so yeah there’s meat in here and their beans but it has the orange juice it has the kassa or the rum nice salce on top uh and also Tomatoes this is so good and it’s not heavy it’s not one of those real muddy murky beef stews it’s very light so one other little note other than the bacon we didn’t Brown the beef or the ham hawkk or the sausages there’s so much flavor in this that adding that myard

Reaction that Browning isn’t really necessary that’s a good way to make recipes much simpler so Brazilian black beans stew beans and meat but a nice balance not too heavy a fair amount of liquid nice bright sauce on the top really a great Dish today we are going to be making a Spanish cheso ham and white bean stew it’s it’s a 30 minute version of the Spanish tapa fabada Asana which is named for the beans that are typically in it however we found that using canned white beans actually made this go a little bit

Quicker without impacting the taste so to start it off I’m going to throw a little bit of oil into my pan and heat it up until it’s shimmering over medium now that my oil is hot I’m going to add in my onions my garlic and my saffron

You don’t need a ton of saffron to impart a lot of beautiful flavor and color it’s mild but a little bit will go a very long way I’m also going to add about 1/4 teaspoon of salt and about half a teaspoon of pepper the reason that I’m not adding so much

Salt is because I’m going to bring a lot of that seasoning in with my ham and my chizo going to give this a stir and cook it for about 5 to 8 minutes so I’m using some dried chizo and it’s a really high impact ingredient

That will add a lot of life and zest to a neutral ingredient like a white bean I want to add these to my onions but I don’t want them to sear if they sear they’re going to end up a little bit chewy I went ahead and used the dried

Form of thiza with the casings removed and sliced it up thin I’m going to add it to the pot with my ham and I’m only going to let it cook for about a minute just so it can start to release those oils and you can see the color starting

To leech out of the chizo as the fat starts to render and it’s mixing beautifully with the yellow of the Saffron looks like our chizo is starting to render just a bit before it cooks too much I’m going to add my beans my bay leaves and my chicken broth the chizo and ham are going to make a nice Porky Smoky base for my stew so for this recipe we are using calini

Beans for their creaminess and their texture but if you don’t have any on hand you can use any sort of white bean that you have in your pantry we made sure to use canned ones to speed up our cooking time got our beans and our Bayes in now we can add our

Broth so now that everything’s in the pot I’m going to bring it all up to a simmer over medium high so now that my broth is simmering I’m going to drop my heat down to medium and let it continue to simmer for about 10 to 15

Minutes so it’s been about 15 minutes my chizo has let out a lot of fat and it actually smells kind of incredible over here because of all the Smoky Porky goodness going on in my broth so now it’s time to go ahead and pull my bait leaves

Up while they add a lot of flavor they don’t make for the best bite got my bay leaves out and I’m going to stir in my scallions and give it a quick stir now that my scallions in I’m going to give it a quick taste for

Seasoning the chizo is imparted a lot of its saltiness into the broth so it actually tastes pretty well seasoned at the moment serve some up got some nice crusty bread to enjoy with my soup but it’s time to give it a taste for something that comes together so

Quickly with such little effort it has huge bold flavors and it’s rich and Hearty this is our Spanish chizo ham and white bean Stew this rich and Hearty Ragu is inspired by Vitali paly a Portland Chef we love the way he layers flavors and that’s what we’ve done here so I’m going to get started with the the mushrooms this Ragu has so many flavors in it if you look up Umami you will see that

Mushrooms are always mentioned because they’re so earthy and delicious when you use a Portell mushroom it has these dark brown gills for something like a sauce you don’t want that because it will end up making your sauce kind of Muddy and brown so I’m going to take those out and

This is how you do it you just use a spoon and we’re just going to scrape along the inside and take all those gills out so I’ve got most of those gills out as you can see and now I’m just going to chop these finely this is a giant

Mushroom but Porto Bellow are so flavorful they add so much richness to anything okay that looks pretty good I’m going to add it to the rest of the mushrooms I have here and now we’re going to start the sauce so we have some butter and some minced garlic I’m going

To heat those together over medium in a 12-in skillet until the butter is melted and the garlic starts to simmer and that’s only going to take a few minutes so we don’t want to Brown the garlic here we just want to infuse the butter with that garlic

Flavor now that the butter is melted and it’s infused with our garlic we’re going to add our mushrooms and our minced shallots we’re going to cook this together until the juices from the mushrooms have cooked out and the shallots are soft that’s going to take about 5

Minutes so as you can see most of the liquid is cooked out of the mushrooms but this smells amazing already so now I’m going to add our sausage and this already has fennel and maybe a little more garlic so it really does add another great layer of flavor to this so

When you’re putting this in here you really want to break it up as much as you can with your spatula use the best sausage you can find so you’ll get all that extra flavor in there we’re going to cook this until the sausage is no longer pink and that’s going to take

About 8 minutes so our sausage is cooked all the way through it’s no longer pink but it’s not brown we want it to stay nice nice and tender so I’m going to turn this up to medium high and add our wine I’m using a Cabernet svon here because

That’s perfect with this and it will hold up to all of those bold flavors so you want something that’s dry and full bodied and a Cabernet is a great wine for that so we’re going to let this cook down for 5 minutes until all of the wine

Is reduced and then we’ll add another layer of flavor it’s been about 5 minutes and most of our wine is cooked down so now we’re going to add add some chicken stock and we’re going to add something unusual we’re adding cinnamon I know you usually think of cinnamon as a dessert

Spice but there are a lot of Cuisines around the world that use cinnamon in sweet and savory things and it really tamps down the acidity of the tomatoes we’re going to add later and also adds a little bit of warmth to this and we’re going to add some black

Pepper now this is also going to cook down for another 5 minutes until it’s reduced by half okay so this is reduced by half we’re going to add our final layer of flavor here and these are crushed tomatoes I’m going to add these to stir them in and we’re going to

Let this cook for about 5 minutes until it starts to thicken a little bit and while this is happening I’m going to boil my pasta we are using tagliatelli here you want to use a flat wide pasta here because this is a really hearty sauce and this will soak it up and stick

To it it’s a great pasta for this kind of stewy thick sauce this is 4 quarts of water I’m going to add one tblspoon of salt to that and we’re going to add our Chell and cook it until it’s Al Dente okay so this sauce has really thickened look at how beautiful that

Looks so I’m going to just taste it and see if it needs any salt and pepper and might add a little pepper so we’ve boiled our pasta It’s Al Dente I saved a little bit of the pasta water it’s always nice to have some of this starchy water if your sauce is a

Little thick and you want to thin it out a little bit so carefully we’re going to take the sauce and add it to our Tagle be careful it can be a little messy but it’s pasta it’s okay so you want to toss this in this beautiful sauce so you coat your noodles really

Well now this is just so perfect with this kind of thick noodle so this looks like a sauce that has been sitting on your stove all day but because of the way we layered all the flavors it took less than an hour so I can’t wait to dry

It it looks so good so I’m going to add one more layer of flavor some nutty parmesan cheese to this always good now let me give it a try there’s so much flavor in this for something that took so little time I can taste the warm cinnamon the sausage the

Earthiness of the mushrooms and then a little bit of that nutty cheese it’s really delicious Italian sausage and mushroom ragu it is so earthy delicious lots of flavors little hint of cinnamon and it takes less than an hour I hope you’ll try it you can get this recipe

And all the recipes this season on milkstreettv.com While we were in saalo we also visited Restaurante and rotisseri halim it has no traditional storefront to speak of just an open wall and an understated sign above it it’s a family run bakery that opened 50 years ago when nigat Sultan and her husband moved from Lebanon to Brazil spee foreign speee fore Spee Their most popular item is AA a pizza St flatbread with beef Satur onion and all spice all topped with sumac and a drizzle of tahini this kind of flatbread has been around for centuries in Levant but recently they become one of Brazil’s most popular fast Foods recipes and episodes from this season of milre are available at milkstreet tv.com along with shopping lists printer ready recipes and step-by-step videos access our content anytime to change the way you cook the new Milk Street cookbook is now available and includes every recipe from

Our TV show from pad tie with shrimp and no fry eggplant Parmesan to Korean fried chicken and salty honey brown butter bars The Milk Street cookbook offers Boulder fresher easier recipes order your copy of the milk Street cookbook for $27 40% % less than the cover price call 855 m177 or order Online H