Where to: Kyuramen in Winchester Center, an area that has been enjoying a restaurant boom. Recently, Karma opened down the block, serving upscale sushi and more; Nouvelle Maison, a French café and provisions spot, is brand-new around the corner.
Why: For ramen, dumplings, and more, from a sweeping chain with seductive décor.
The katsubushi pork ramen at Kyuramen. Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff
The backstory: The Japanese chain has 40-plus US franchise locations, with more on the way.
Mandi Tong oversees this branch, leaving an auto dealership career in New York to pursue a love of food. (Tong is close with the team behind Karma, which made the move easier.)
One of the private booths at Kyuramen. Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff
“We’re the only ramen store in Winchester, and people are excited about it. Six months ago, when the restaurant hadn’t even been built up yet, people were passing by, waiting for us to be open — and once we did, we got a lot of feedback about the atmosphere,” Tong says.
About the ambiance: Kyuramen is known for a honeycomb design, with blond wood alcoves that function as tiny private dining cubbies; there’s also a noodle bar and open kitchen.
The restaurant is technically still in a soft-opening phase, with a grand opening celebration planned for this month.
The lobster Chashu salad ball at Kyuramen. Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff
What to eat: Kyu means “nine” in Japanese; hence, there are nine styles of ramen on the menu ($16.99 and up): spicy pork (a bestseller), vegetable miso, Korean kimchi. The ramen is rich and flavorful, but the menu also has other treasures: Try the classic omurice ($20.99), an egg-rice combo: Picture a fluffy, missile-shaped omelet wrapped around chicken-fried rice, coated in pork-and-beef demi-glace. It’s heavy, but comforting.
There’s also deep-fried gyoza, folded in crunchy layers; shrimp tempura; and pork belly and green onion bao, all under $10. Be forewarned: Although Kyuramen does a brisk takeout business, certain combo platters and specialties, like Takoyaki octopus balls, are only available for dine-in.
The omurice at Kyuramen. Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff
What to drink: House-made Thai iced tea and lemonade, or sake, soju, and Japanese beers.
The takeaway: A well-priced, filling nook that serves a niche in a neighborhood with a growing food scene.
Kyuramen, 538 Main St., Winchester, 781-369-1331, www.kyuramen.com
Kara Baskin can be reached at kara.baskin@globe.com. Follow her @kcbaskin.