CHICAGO — On the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, Andros Taverna will look and smell a lot differently than the contemporary Greek restaurant normally does.
On top of the bar and spread throughout the dining room will be freshly baked, still-warm pies, the aroma of which will permeate the Logan Square restaurant, 2542 N. Milwaukee Ave.
This is the fourth year Andros pastry chef Hsing Chen, who owns the restaurant along with her chef husband, Doug Psaltis, is making Thanksgiving pies.
Rather than go the super-traditional route, Chen is offering four Greek-inspired Thanksgiving pies.
“These are recipes that I’ve always made, but then I put a twist on it,” Chen said.
Apple galaktoboureko is a riff on apple pie that adds vanilla custard along with the fruit filling, encased in buttery phyllo. Baklava cream pie mimics the traditional Middle Eastern dessert with layers of phyllo dough, walnuts, pistachios and honey along with pistachio pastry cream. For her take on pumpkin pie, Chen uses a phyllo pie shell for the pumpkin filling, which includes coconut milk for extra creaminess and is topped with a vanilla and cinnamon cream.
Andros Taverna is offering baklava cream pie (left) and galaktoboureko apple pie (right) for the holiday season. Credit: Hsing Chen/Provided
New this year is chocolate halva pie, which includes tahini cream with candied halva and chocolate ganache.
“I like to add something new each year, and I personally love chocolate,” she said.
On the savory side, Chen has added spinach- and cheese-filled spanakopita for those who like to start their Thanksgiving meal with pie.
The biggest challenge for Chen and her pastry team of three comes from the complexity of working with phyllo.
“The hardest thing about phyllo is unlike with other pies, we cannot bake it and freeze it ahead of time,” she said, adding that it has to stay at room temperature. It also needs to be kept moist. “Once it’s dry, it’s no longer pliable, so as you’re brushing it with butter, all the other sheets have to be covered.”
That’s why Andros’ 100 or so pies can only be baked on the day before Thanksgiving. On that morning, Chen and her team are joined by three other staffers to help with the packaging, which includes separate serving instructions for each pie.
“It’s a very early start time,” Chen said.
But the result is so worth it, she said.
“My husband is Greek, and Thanksgiving is a big holiday on his side of the family,” Chen said. “His father is the inspiration because he loved anything with butter and phyllo.”
Family also served as inspiration for the three Thanksgiving pies available at River North’s Obelix, 700 N. Sedgwick St., which is offering them for the first time — though plans are already in place to make pies for the holidays in December. To help share the workload, each pastry team member will create 15 pies.
Picking a pie to make was easy for Courtney Kenyon, executive pastry chef at Obélix and Le Bouchon.
“Mine was inspired by my Nana’s pecan pie,” she said. “Each year, I try to make a better pecan pie than she does, but that never happens.”
For her pie, Kenyon tops salty pecans with vanilla custard, which rests in a buttery pie dough.
For her hickory butternut squash pie, Obélix head baker Louise “Lou” Turner tapped into her Pennsylvania German farm family heritage.
“My grandfather made incredible pies and food,” she said. “I’m always trying to find the perfect pie crust for the fillings I grew up so nostalgically eating.”
Starting with an old family recipe, Turner added local flare, including using squash from Nichol’s Farm and Orchard, flour from Janie’s Mill and foraged hickory syrup from Mushroom Mike.
For her pie, Obélix pastry sous chef Ashleigh Lyons found inspiration at work.
“Oliver [Poilevey] loves bananas,” Lyons said of the lauded chef. “It seemed a no-brainer for us to do a banana cream pie.”
Lyons starts with a classic graham cracker crust and fills it with a banana pastry cream made with wild Thai bananas from Rare Tea Cellars. The pie is filled with a tonka bean whipped chantilly cream and banana caramel and topped with a Valrhona chocolate feuilletine crunch.
“Thanksgiving is the only time of year that you make a variety of pies just for one day,” Chen said. “That’s what I love about it.”
Looking to buy your pies for Thanksgiving dinner? We’ve rounded up Chicago options — and we encourage you to order as soon as possible to be on the safe side:
Andros Taverna’s pumpkin phyllo pie. Credit: Hsing Chen/Provided
Andros Taverna, 2542 N. Milwaukee Ave. (Logan Square): Andros’ four Thanksgiving pies find inspiration in Greece, with offerings including pumpkin phyllo, apple pie galaktoboureko, baklava cream and chocolate halva. Additionally, there’s a savory phyllo spanakopita and optional vanilla whipped cream. Pies cost $44. Order online by Nov. 25 for pickup Nov. 27.
Aya Pastry, 1332 W. Grand Ave. (West Town): This year, the bakery is offering an apple crumble pie, chocolate bourbon pecan pie and spiced pumpkin pie, priced $35-$37. Grab a bundle of all three for the discounted price of $95. You can even toss in a jar of vanilla bean whipped cream to use as a topping. Order online before noon Nov. 19 and pick up your treats Nov. 22-27.
Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits, 2051 N. California Ave. (Logan Square): This year’s pies include roasted pumpkin, classic apple, chocolate pecan, cast-iron apple crisp (gluten-free), key lime and cranberry cheesecake. In addition to desserts, you can pick up mini biscuits, biscuit stuffing, pot pies and pie crust baked brie to round out your Thanksgiving dinner. Pies cost $34-$56. Online orders can be picked up Nov. 26 or 27 at the Logan Square shop.
Brown Sugar Bakery, 328 E. 75th St. (Grand Crossing): A sweet potato pie combined with a two-layer caramel cake from an iconic Chicago bakery sounds like the perfect wrapup to Thanksgiving dinner. Pair the two desserts for $60. Order online for pickup Nov. 24-27.
Cadinho Bakery, 3483 S. Archer Ave. (McKinley Park): This bakery and café is offering four pies for Thanksgiving: maple bourbon pecan, passion fruit tart, French silk with dark chocolate short crust and pudim de Abade de priscos, a special Portuguese flan made with port wine and Italian prosciutto. Pies cost $53-$56. Natas, brigadeiro and other treats are also available. Open until 2 p.m. Thanksgiving. Place orders by messaging on Instagram, calling 773-801-0508 or stopping by the bakery.
Delightful Pastries, 5927 W. Lawrence Ave. (Portage Park): The menu features twists on classic holiday pies, such as cranberry fudge, apple caramel and bourbon chocolate pecan pie, plus homemade soups, breads, quiche and sides to complete the meal. There’s also mocha crème brulée pie and traditional pumpkin, pecan and apple pies. Pies cost $18-$32. You can order online. Online orders take 48 hours to process and must be a minimum of $36.
Daisies, 2375 N. Milwaukee Ave. (Logan Square): In addition to a Thanksgiving dinner kit — think turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, maple and sage sausage stuffing, green bean casserole and more — this Logan Square spot is offering two holiday pies: apple crumble and pumpkin. House-made vanilla ice cream is available too. Pies cost $35. Order online for pickup on Nov. 27.
The Dearborn, 145 N. Dearborn St. (Loop): Handcrafted holidays pies are once again available at this iconic Downtown tavern. Chocolate cheesecake with an espresso chocolate mousse and a butterscotch pecan pie with a brown butterscotch drizzle and whipped ganache are available 48 hours after placing order online. Pies cost $40.
Defloured, 1477 W. Balmoral Ave. (Andersonville): This is the place to go if you’re searching for a gluten-free dessert. Thanksgiving pies, including pumpkin, pecan and apple — all available in vegan versions — must be ordered online by Nov. 21. Pies cost $35-$39. Unbaked cheddar apple biscuits and challah rolls also available.
First Slice Cafe, various locations: A wide variety of pies are available, including traditional and not — think apple, pecan, pumpkin, sweet potato praline, coffee toffee and key lime — some of which are available vegan. In addition to pies, First Slice Cafe offers quiche, pot pies, soups, entrees and sides. Pies come in small and large sizes, $24-$39. Last day to order online is Nov. 22 with pickup Nov. 25-27. Locations in Andersonville, Ravenswood and Ravenswood Manor.
Floriole, 1220 W. Webster Ave. (LIncoln Park): A staple for 13 years, Floriole offers 6- and 9-inch Thanksgiving pies in two varieties: honey caramel pumpkin and apple crumble, both of which are made with an all-butter pie crust. Pies cost $19-$44. Pre-order online by Nov. 24 for pickup Nov. 26 and 27. Additional holiday items include green bean casserole galette, take-and-bake croissants, buttery dinner rolls and turkey pot pie.
Good Ambler, 216 N. Peoria St. (West Loop): While you won’t find pies at this West Loop bakery and cafe, you will find plenty of tasty holiday-centric offerings, including green bean casserole Danish, brie and cranberry pain Suisse, sweet potato and toasted meringue croissants, maple tonka bean morning buns and specialty chocolates. Prepare for breakfast the next day with croissant breakfast casserole and quiche. Order online with pickups on Nov. 27-28.
Kasama, 1001 N. Winchester Ave. (East Ukrainian Village): This modern Filipino bakery and restaurant’s most popular specialty is an ube and huckleberry basque cake, a buttery pound cake filed with ube pastry cream and huckleberries. It also offers lemon pecan pie and classic pumpkin pie. Pies cost $62-$72. Order online, but with the bakery’s popularity, odds are it will set out quickly. Orders can be picked up Nov. 27.
Little Goat Diner, 3325 N. Southport Ave. (Lakeview): Choose from a trio of Sugargoat holiday pies: apple gjetost, pecan or chocolate shake French fry pie. Pies cost $40-$48. Order online for pickup Nov. 27.
Loaf Lounge, 2934 N. Milwaukee Ave. (Avondale): There are no pies at this bakery and café, but you will find terrific Thanksgiving treats. Order online for Japanese pumpkin curry loaves, dinner rolls, stuffing croutons, compound butters and a pastry assortment box with apple pie Danish, pumpkin spice latter snack café, cranberry morning bun and more. This is also the spot to get that chocolate cake (you know, the one from “The Bear”). Ordering closes Nov. 21 with pickups 8-10 a.m. Nov. 27-28.
The triple chocolate (left) and pumpkin (right) holiday pies available at Lost Larson.
Lost Larson, various locations: Known for milling its own flour for its array of pastries, cakes and breads, Lost Larson will offer unique twists on traditional Thanksgiving pies. Pumpkin, pecan, triple chocolate and apple pies are available, along with Lost Larson’s signature princess cake, a traditional Swedish cake. Other Thanksgiving items include take-and-bake cinnamon rolls and boxes of croissants and tea buns. Pies cost $52-$54. Three-day notice for orders online for pickup at Lost Larson’s Andersonville and Wicker Park locations.
Mindy’s Bakery, 1623 N. Milwaukee Ave. (WIcker Park): This renowned bakery mixed all your favorite seasonal treats together in its “Turducken of Pies,” with a brown butter graham cracker crust filled with a spiced pumpkin cheesecake and flourless chocolate cake. It’s topped with pecan caramel candy bar and toasted marshmallow. Other Thanksgiving items include apple cake, take-and-bake mac and cheese and Mindy’s favorite stuffing. Pies cost $45-$50. Order online until Nov. 24. Pies can be picked up Nov. 26-27.
Momotaro, 820 W. Lake St. (West Loop): Momotaro embraces its Japanese roots for its Okinawa sweet potato pie with a house-made graham cracker crust and cardamon whipped ganache. Pie costs $50. Order online for pickup Nov. 26-27. Photos.
Obelix, 700 N. Sedgwick St. (River North): This year, this River North French restaurant is offering a trio of Thanksgiving pies made by three of its pastry chefs: banana cream pie, Nana’s pecan pie and hickory butternut squash pie. Smoked honey brioche rolls are also available. Pies cost $50. Order online. Pies can be picked up Nov. 27.
Publican Quality Bread, 825 W. Fulton Market St. (West Town): Handcrafted baked goods are the signature of this classic bakery, and for Thanksgiving that will include three pies — pumpkin, bourbon pecan and Dutch apple — along with cinnamon rolls, honey oat pull-apart rolls and cornbread. Turkeys, including spatchcocked, and whole hams also available. Pies cost $39-$42. Order online until Nov. 21 with pickup Nov. 25-27. Local delivery available for $15.
Roeser’s Bakery, 3216 W. North Ave. (Humboldt Park): In addition to its extensive selection of holiday pies, the full-service bakery has been making a wide selection of pastries, cakes, doughnuts, breads and other sweet treats for more than 100 years. Thanksgiving pies featured this year include Dutch apple, blueberry, cherry, chocolate banana, lemon meringue, pumpkin, sweet potato and caramel pecan. Pies cost $14-$22. Call ahead to reserve your pie at 773-489-6900 or pop into the bakery — and be ready for crowds. Last day to place an order is Nov. 26.
Spinning J, 1000 N. California Ave. (Humboldt Park): Thanksgiving pies and other holiday specials such as the cranberry yuzu meringue, s’mores and guava cheescake are available for pickup Nov. 26-28. Thanksgiving sides include stuffing and frozen buttermilk biscuits. Pies cost $38-$48. Order online.
Sweet Mandy B’s, various locations: Known for its nostalgic, made-from-scratch baked goods, Sweet Mandy B’s classic Thanksgiving pies include apple streusel, pumpkin, pecan, chocolate cream, banana cream and key lime. Other holiday-themed specials will include pumpkin and turkey cut-out cookies and turkey leg decorated cupcakes. Pies cost $30-$36. Place orders by calling Lincoln Park at 773-244-1174 and Streeterville at 312-255-1632 Nov. 24-28.
Swift & Sons, 1000 W. Fulton Market St. (West Loop): This steakhouse will offer two Thanksgiving pies: a classic pumpkin or a rich chocolate pecan for $35 apiece. Order online through Nov. 25 with pickup Nov. 27. Photos
Swift Tavern, 3600 N. Clark St. (Wrigleyville): At this Wrigleyville sibling to Swift & Sons, you’ll find pumpkin pie on offer for Thanksgiving for $25. Order online through Nov. 25 with pickup available Nov. 27.
Vanille Patisserie, various locations: Thanksgiving specials include apple streusel, pecan, chocolate hazelnut and pumpkin pies. You can also find a variety of croissants, cakes, cookies and macaroons. Pies cost $37-$46. Order online. You can find Vanille Patisserie locations in Lincoln Park, Lakeview and the French Market.
Weber’s Bakery, 7055 W. Archer Ave. (Garfield Ridge): A Chicago tradition since 1930, Weber’s Bakery goes all out for Thanksgiving. Pies include pumpkin, apple, chocolate whipped cream and cranberry and pear. Colorfully decorated holiday cakes, cookies and cupcakes are also available. Call 773-586-1234 or stop by the shop.
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