[Chartron St Aubin] Gotta love an early drinking window white burg
[Chartron St Aubin] Gotta love an early drinking window white burg
by WineNerdAndProud
4 Comments
WineNerdAndProud
**Notes at the bottom**
I realized the other day that I don’t really see all that many posts about Jean Chartron, so I thought I’d pop the cork on one.
Having sold their negociant label Chartron and Trebuchet a while ago, the quality of the domaine wines seems to still be improving with each new vintage, and with the types of holdings they have, that spells delicious wine.
A lot of producers would consider themselves incredibly fortunate to have holdings in Puligny Les Pucelles, Puligny Cailleret, or Chevalier Montrachet GC. Not only does Chartron own land in all 3, but all 3 are designated as “clos” sites. In fact, Puligny Cailleret 1er was once 100% owned by Chartron, now they have the “Clos de la Pucelles”, “Clos du Cailleret”, and “Clos des Chevaliers” which are all excellent.
Until 2004, the domaine also worked with the negociant Chartron & Trebuchet, and I have to say, at least to me, I started seeing a difference in their domaine wines which took them from good to great, and one of the wines I took more and more of a shine to was this one.
Saint Aubin is no secret now, but it seems like not long ago I could get this bottle for $30, and it felt like finding a Burgundy cheat code. Now, sadly, that price is over double that, but even that is still a pretty reasonable for what you get. I’ve tasted a lot of them over the last 3-4 years, and while there are number of producers out their offering fantastic wines for less (Domaine Larue comes to mind), this particular bottle from Chartron has become sort of a comfort bottle.
Located just up the hill of Montrachet/Mont Rachet, “Murgers des Dents de Chien” is in a fantastic neighborhood for white wine. Previously less reliable in terms of ripeness, the warmer vintages Burgundy has been getting lately are allowing Saint Aubin to shine, and Chartron is one of many producers making an MDC.
**2018 Domaine Jean Chartron Saint Aubin 1er Cru “Murgers des Dents de Chien”, Cote de Beaune**-
Immediately on the nose you are hit with fresh lemon juice, Asian pear, and ripe cantaloupe, but it’s not until you get to the palate that you truly experience the lemon juice. The pear is a little under-ripe, and the cantaloupe is less present, but the wine makes up for it by giving you white peach, lemon curd, a curiously glorious salinity for the top of a mountain in the middle of France, and a sort of chicken or other poultry bouillon flavor that gives the wine a beautiful umami characteristic. There’s also a nuttiness I always get with Chartron as part of how my palate perceives their house style. (I get a similar thing with Francois Carillon.)
The acidity is fantastic, almost Chablis-like, and there is a tingly minerality that likes to hang out with the rest of the flavors during the finish like you had a swig of mineral water at the end of each sip.
One thing that really surprised me is that this vintage was 100% barrel-fermented with 25% being new because the oak feels barely perceptable.
This is still such an enjoyable wine and I personally love the fact that you are able to pop the corks on them sooner than some of the longer aging Puligny/Chassagne and explore the vintage a little bit without having to sacrifice any infants in the process.
Lehto
I’ve had my eye on the Chartron wines for quite a while, but never bit the bullet and actually bought one… Maybe next time I’ll have to after this great post!
DontLookBack_88
I’ve also enjoyed this producer (his less expensive stuff is very chuggable lol).
What to you makes a wine stylistically “early drinking” vs. not?
EmotionsInWine
Great! Am a long time big supporter of them, happy you posted this!
The last generation, if I well remember Michel, is the one who improved to stunning heights the overall quality! If I well remember the top crus are all very old, one of the reasons of their depth and quality, then he learnt very well the use of oak, this is what really makes lot of difference in burgundy besides the quality of the grapes!
The ageing potential and complexity of their wines is something I will never forget!
4 Comments
**Notes at the bottom**
I realized the other day that I don’t really see all that many posts about Jean Chartron, so I thought I’d pop the cork on one.
Having sold their negociant label Chartron and Trebuchet a while ago, the quality of the domaine wines seems to still be improving with each new vintage, and with the types of holdings they have, that spells delicious wine.
A lot of producers would consider themselves incredibly fortunate to have holdings in Puligny Les Pucelles, Puligny Cailleret, or Chevalier Montrachet GC. Not only does Chartron own land in all 3, but all 3 are designated as “clos” sites. In fact, Puligny Cailleret 1er was once 100% owned by Chartron, now they have the “Clos de la Pucelles”, “Clos du Cailleret”, and “Clos des Chevaliers” which are all excellent.
Until 2004, the domaine also worked with the negociant Chartron & Trebuchet, and I have to say, at least to me, I started seeing a difference in their domaine wines which took them from good to great, and one of the wines I took more and more of a shine to was this one.
Saint Aubin is no secret now, but it seems like not long ago I could get this bottle for $30, and it felt like finding a Burgundy cheat code. Now, sadly, that price is over double that, but even that is still a pretty reasonable for what you get. I’ve tasted a lot of them over the last 3-4 years, and while there are number of producers out their offering fantastic wines for less (Domaine Larue comes to mind), this particular bottle from Chartron has become sort of a comfort bottle.
Located just up the hill of Montrachet/Mont Rachet, “Murgers des Dents de Chien” is in a fantastic neighborhood for white wine. Previously less reliable in terms of ripeness, the warmer vintages Burgundy has been getting lately are allowing Saint Aubin to shine, and Chartron is one of many producers making an MDC.
**2018 Domaine Jean Chartron Saint Aubin 1er Cru “Murgers des Dents de Chien”, Cote de Beaune**-
Immediately on the nose you are hit with fresh lemon juice, Asian pear, and ripe cantaloupe, but it’s not until you get to the palate that you truly experience the lemon juice. The pear is a little under-ripe, and the cantaloupe is less present, but the wine makes up for it by giving you white peach, lemon curd, a curiously glorious salinity for the top of a mountain in the middle of France, and a sort of chicken or other poultry bouillon flavor that gives the wine a beautiful umami characteristic. There’s also a nuttiness I always get with Chartron as part of how my palate perceives their house style. (I get a similar thing with Francois Carillon.)
The acidity is fantastic, almost Chablis-like, and there is a tingly minerality that likes to hang out with the rest of the flavors during the finish like you had a swig of mineral water at the end of each sip.
One thing that really surprised me is that this vintage was 100% barrel-fermented with 25% being new because the oak feels barely perceptable.
This is still such an enjoyable wine and I personally love the fact that you are able to pop the corks on them sooner than some of the longer aging Puligny/Chassagne and explore the vintage a little bit without having to sacrifice any infants in the process.
I’ve had my eye on the Chartron wines for quite a while, but never bit the bullet and actually bought one… Maybe next time I’ll have to after this great post!
I’ve also enjoyed this producer (his less expensive stuff is very chuggable lol).
What to you makes a wine stylistically “early drinking” vs. not?
Great!
Am a long time big supporter of them, happy you posted this!
The last generation, if I well remember Michel, is the one who improved to stunning heights the overall quality!
If I well remember the top crus are all very old, one of the reasons of their depth and quality, then he learnt very well the use of oak, this is what really makes lot of difference in burgundy besides the quality of the grapes!
The ageing potential and complexity of their wines is something I will never forget!
Long time can’t drink any…
Sante’!