Burgundy lineup for the ages

by sid_loves_wine

5 Comments

  1. sid_loves_wine

    Unbelievable lineup of Burgundies, literally *all* generously shared by u/interstellar_billy (who also brought maps, books, everything to get into the little details of the wines)- this was inarguably one of the greatest wine experiences of my life so far, and very possibly #1. Every single one of these Chardonnays and Pinot noirs showed beautifully, and a couple were aged for QUITE a while with nothing but beauty and complexity to show for it- not even a little bit tired.

    Raveneau, Chablis Premier Cru “Montée de Tonerre” 2004- very lucky to say this is my 3rd time trying Rav. Would never have guessed it was 20+ yrs old, maybe 15 if I was REALLY pushing it. Beautiful deep perfume with vivid apple orchard, green apples and richer yellow, with walnuts and other vague nutty tones, and even some sense of fresh citrus left- plenty of salty minerality, but also a really captivating savory thing that was like cheese danish, or even faint parmesan rind. The palate was pure elegance- bright and electric with incredibly integrated acidity, absolutely no sense of puckery sourness, oxidized fruit, or anything else like that, just salted caramel apple, touches of honey and lemon curd all the way down, and a powerful stony mineral thing lingering for days. Seriously waxy, densely flavored, but so light and filigreed at the same time. Round, gentle, comforting. In a way, this feels like one of the very rare top-end chardonnays in which the *fruit* is the star, more than the winemaking.

    Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Abbaye de Morgeot” 2019- my first time with this producer (finally!) I guess I could say this is somewhat more my “style” of Chard than the Rav, with some richer oak to it- although it was definitely less complex than the Rav at this early stage, it was singing, and *immediately* showed me why PYCM also has a cult following. A big blast of rich almond, some steely/flinty tones that absolutely never overwhelmed the rest of the wine, and maybe something closest to lemon bars for the fruit, definitely brighter and more linear than the Rav, less round, less nutty. If the Rav was a big warm hug, this was like the perfect dap-up. Extremely precise, despite a rich presence. Reminded me a lot of a 2019 Lafon Porusots we drank last fall, flavor-wise, although I found this PYCM slightly more expressive and unique, a little more flinty too.

    Alain Hudelot-Noëllat, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru “Les Suchots” 1999- my first from this producer and a truly eye-opening bottle for me as someone who kinda generally prefers wines in their earlier stages (or at least with less aging than this), *especially* with Pinot Noir. This was miraculously fresh and vibrant, loaded with complex umami-rich tertiary notes but not even remotely fading. Pungent and high-toned, definitely the “brightest” fruit of the 3 reds, wildly perfumed. Latticework of very slightly dried strawberries, raspberry or redcurrant compote, fragrant autumn leaves, chanterelles, faint leather, and bright salty cured meats like prosciutto all over the nose and palate, with a big burst of vibrant acid lifting up the earthy, silken fruit. I don’t know if it’ll get me rolling the dice on well-aged Burgs all the time yet, but I’m really excited to explore more.

    Fourrier, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru “Les Sentiers” 2010- this is actually the second Fourrier Chambolle 1er 2010 I’ve tasted, having tried Les Gruenchers a couple of years ago, again with u/interstellar_billy. This magnum of Sentiers is a true unicorn, apparently not even sold by the Domaine (only gifted?), and it ended up in our host’s hands as a lucky auction find. Pretty different from Les Gruenchers; although this was no less precise and vibrant, it was considerably darker-pitched, with a distinct amaro tone supporting the blue-ish fruit. A little less umami than the others, more of a cool woodland vibe, damp misty morning, damp stone mineral tones, violets, wild mulberries/blueberries, gorgeous acidity lifting it up.

    Bruno Clair, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru “Clos St. Jacques” 2012- my first from Clair and also from this vineyard, which is often ranked among the “honorary grands crus”. WOW. In a way this was sort of a cross between the two other Pinots; plenty of salty, meaty, umami-rich red fruit, but with deep freshness and a cool mineral edge lurking. Darker red fruit here; raspberry liqueur, thick black cherries accented with rich glazed meats, almost like candied bacon, and touches of that French Funk. The way it seemed to continually expand on the palate really stood out to me, definitely a touch fuller, more persistently blooming with complex flavors that just wouldn’t quit. In a way it seemed just a TOUCH more aged than the 2010 Fourrier, but I think that’s because of the magnum bottle. This was unbelievable in its richness, complexity, and elegance.

    I still can’t decide on my WOTN and have decided not to choose one. They all filled really different roles. If I could pick one to have just one more sip of, it would probably be the Clair, but it would be a tough choice. This was such a memorable group of wines that I didn’t even think about Burgundian QPR issues while tasting; it was super clear that all of them could only have come from Burgundy.

  2. Secret-Equipment4039

    Yeaahhh that’s a fantastic line-up. I’m not jealous at all…

    Thanks for the notes, though!

  3. AustraliaWineDude

    Sid that’s incredible! Very jealous mate, amazing notes as always

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