As the leaves turn and the temperature begin to drop, the warmth of summer days and dreamy vacations to the Mediterranean become all but distant memories. Thankfully, New Jerseyans can savor a sliver of the Greek islands year-round, thanks to newcomer, Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park.
Formerly a location of the Mexican chain, On the Border, Naxos opened on busy Route 46 West in early September after an extensive, eight-month-long renovation.
It’s owned by the Georgoutsos-Matthews family, proprietors of the venerable Pompton Queen Diner in Pompton Plains, one of Jersey’s best diners.
“It’s been in the family for 40 years,” manager Peter Matthews shared. “We were finally ready for our second venture, a more elevated dining experience that celebrates our heritage.”
Facade at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Yet this restaurant is no scene from “Mamma Mia.” It instead offered an elegance that reminded me of NYC Greek goliaths, Estiatorio Milos and Avra.
“We wanted to create a nice, upscale ambiance rather than the typical white and blue taverna-style Greek decor,” Matthews explained.
I tucked myself into one of their cozy, curved banquettes as I admired the neutral tones and natural materials that outfitted the main dining room.
After learning that the kitchen was being run by Avra veteran and Varka’s former executive chef, Ubaldo Andres, I knew I was in great hands. Matthews noted Naxos imports its cheeses, olive oil and water from Greece, its fish is brought in daily.
My hopes for this well-pedigreed newcomer were high, but measured as New Jersey offers loads of excellent Greek dining already. Where does Naxos fit? Let’s dig in.
READ MORE: New Jersey’s 25 best Greek restaurants, ranked
The good
Complimentary starter at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The meal started with a complimentary dish of garlicky hummus, radishes and olives with toasted pita and fresh bread. An appetizer in itself, it was an unexpectedly generous spread that took the edge off of my hunger.
Naxos chips at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
One dish that I enthusiastically seek out at Greek restaurants is the “chips” ($18), a delicate stack of thinly sliced zucchini and eggplant, battered and fried until golden, set atop a foundation of thick tzatziki. I loved each crispy layer dipped into the refreshing yogurt, but craved a touch more salt. Nitpicking aside, these are a must-order for the table.
Octopus at Naxos Estiatorio restaurant in Woodland Park, NJ on Friday October 18, 2024Ed Murray| For NJ Advance Media
If there’s one type of seafood that’s synonymous with Greece, it’s octopus ($30). Naxos’ version comes at a high price tag thanks to the use of perfectly grilled, sashimi grade octopus tossed with kapia sweet peppers, capers, extra virgin olive oil, and a red wine vinaigrette. Tender with a nice char, I thoroughly enjoyed each bite.
Tuna tartar at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Tuna tartare ($28) is a dish that graces the menus of most European and Asian cuisines, so I was curious to see how Naxos would put their own spin on it. Beautifully, plated, the finely chopped yellowfin tuna and raw red onion were mixed with a blend of herbs and spices and served alongside toasted ciabatta chips and perfectly ripe, sliced avocado that was drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. Each build-your-own chip delivered a 360 experience of clean flavors and varied textures, a tartare I’d absolutely order again.
Shrimp on fire at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
I stayed on the seafood train and sampled the shrimp on fire “sti fotia” ($26), a spicy creation of colossal shrimp bathed in a spicy Calabrian chili-based sauce. The plump, roasted tomatoes and metaxa (Greek muscat wine) imparted a sweetness that balanced everything out. Keep that bread basket within reach for mopping up that heavenly sauce (and help cool things off).
Saganaki at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Picture this: a massive, triangular wedge of funky, stretchy kefalograviera cheese from the island of Naxos, dipped in a crispy coating, seared until golden and drizzled with honey. Better known as saganaki ($18), this was the most elegant looking Greek mozzarella stick I’ve ever encountered. Each forkful was a symphony of sweet, savory, crispy and creamy. If I didn’t have (a lot) more food on it’s way, I would’ve polished this off without pause.
Lamb meatballs at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Greek meatballs may be a distant cousin to the meatballs of my Italian heritage, but I love them for the juicy, lamby, herby orbs that they are. Naxos’ lamb meatballs “soutzoukakia”($22) featured a tender blend of lamb and beef simmered in a garlicky tomato sauce, topped with feta. A welcome departure from all of the seafood I’d been enjoying, they were packed with the flavor and comfort I’d expect at yia-yia’s house.
While fish at Naxos Estiatorio restaurant in Woodland Park, NJ on Friday October 18, 2024Ed Murray| For NJ Advance Media
I had to hit the seafood display, and opted for the whole branzino “lavraki” ($50). Among the three preparations offered, I went with the traditional “Naxos style” of lemon, olive oil and capers, which I knew would compliment this mild and tender fish perfectly. The fish was served with a side of lemon roasted potatoes, which although bland looking, were moist, creamy and delicious with the slightest hint of lemon.
Horta at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
One of my favorite Greek side dishes is “horta,” or wild greens ($12). Simply prepared with olive oil and lemon, these slightly bitter yet tender greens were the perfect compliment to the main dish.
The bad
After a nearly flawless runway show of appetizers, mains and sides, the only missteps occurred during dessert, and it had nothing to do with the main event, but with the accompaniments.
Baklava at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Amongst a sea of creative concoctions, I went traditional with the baklava ($10) and the bougatsa ($10). The baklava was that crispy phyllo, nutty, honey-based triagle that I love so much, paired with a scoop of ice cream in a flavor I could not identify. It really didn’t need the ice cream, so I found that pairing to be a little unnecessary.
Bougatsa at Naxos Estiatorio in Woodland Park(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The less enjoyable of the two was the apple bougatsa, a creamy, apple-filled purse-shaped pastry housed in a layer of crispy phyllo. I loved this on its own, but the intense and overpowering hazelnut ice cream that accompanied it competed with rather than complimented its flavors. The bougatsa on its own or coupled with vanilla ice cream would have been a home run.
The vibe
Dining room at Naxos Estiatorio restaurant in Woodland Park, NJ on Friday October 18, 2024Ed Murray| For NJ Advance Media
Pulling up to Naxos, you wouldn’t know it was a Greek restaurant unless you were familiar with the name of one of Greece’s smaller islands. The beautiful white facade is clean and striking, but not overdone. The dining room is decked out in warm neutrals with pops of color from the olive trees and bougainvillea. Seating is plentiful, featuring rows of curved banquettes lining the perimeter and center. The bar area continues to carry the theme, with the addition of one big screen TV, just enough to add a little buzz but not encourage a raucous scene.
Fresh sea food bar at Naxos Estiatorio restaurant in Woodland Park, NJ on Friday October 18, 2024Ed Murray| For NJ Advance Media
With a focus on fresh fish, the daily offerings are displayed in the middle of the restaurant for guests to admire and even select from. A private room is available for private events and general overflow, and during the warmer months, an al fresco patio will be available for guests to enjoy. By prime dinner time, the dining room was buzzing, an impressive sign for such a young restaurant.
The bottom line
Naxos is the restaurant that Woodland Park and its neighboring towns needed. Striking a balance of being casual enough for a family dinner and special enough for a romantic date or special occasion, it’s a unicorn that delivers in ambiance, service, and quality. Simple and authentic dishes using real Greek ingredients set Naxos apart from the rest. Naxos is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.
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Stephanie Rizzolo may be reached at stephanienjdotcom@gmail.com. Find NJ.com on Facebook.