STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — On Tuesday, the front door to Seabass Taverna at 365 New Dorp Lane remained ajar for the afternoon. The gesture signaled a “hello” to passersby as staff readied for the restaurant’s inaugural dinners.
As the name suggests, Seabass Taverna represents a blend of rustic Turkish and Greek concepts, with fish at the fore. Owner Hussein Yavuz emphasizes its appeal to a variety of palates among vegetable sides, landlubber mains, plus the cocktails and mocktails to match.
Initially, the place will open for dinner only at 5 p.m. Ultimately, says Hussein, the goal is to have Staten Islanders converge in this one place that becomes more like a Mediterranean “Cheers” — where staff knows the regulars and understands their tastes.
Coming from a career in the cruise ship industry, this will be Hussein and his colleagues’ Mark and Barak’s third venture. In Downtown Brooklyn, they have established Verde on Smith with Italian fare and Levant on Smith with French cuisine. On Staten Island, chef Mertcan joins their partnership.
Before sitting down to a table, guests can peek at what the chef has for the day. In the display case are salads and cold apps — smoked roasted eggplant salad, a delicate roasted red bell pepper mix, roasted eggplant and homemade yogurt pureed with garlic and lemon; the round plate is arranged with sun-dried eggplant stuffed with pomegranate rice. The goblet is filled with Seabass ceviche and the cakes are made from fava beans for a savory complement to the salads.
(Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
What can guests expect on Staten Island?
Hussein emphasized the home-made vibe that starts with fresh baked bread and wraps up with chef-crafted desserts. In between, a patron can savor European wine or fresh juice- and tea-based craft sippers.
Cocktails and mocktails are made with concentrated teas and house-made syrups and reductions. This mint-garnished concoction comes with hibiscus tea and citrus spiked with agave syrup for a well-balanced sweet-on-slightly tart sensation on the palate. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Tasting with the eyes first
Where Seabass Taverna breaks with local restaurant tradition starts with its format.
Guests are invited to sit first, then take stroll to the back of the restaurant. Here in a display case are what the chef has prepared for the day. Some items represent the menu while some could be seasonal riffs. The overall message, however, is the freshness. A theme of extra-virgin olive oil is woven through recipes.
Bass varieties, prawns, Littleneck clams and King crab are presented in their whole state before cooking. Sautéed and pickled vegetables, sugar and salt-cured salmon, assorted ceviche and poached shrimp are presented in platters. A chef behind the station breaks down the items into mezze — small plates. Or, these items can be served as larger dishes for sharing.
In the fore are fava bean cakes ornamented with a dimple for an olive oil garnish. The middle are broad beans sautéed with fennel and in the back are poached shrimp coated in extra-virgin olive oil, a presentation to show of the pinky-ness and stripes on the shellfish. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Also in the inventory but not shown are the non-seafood presentations — Angus beef hanger steak, New Zealand baby lamb chops, housemate moussaka, cage free chicken souvlaki and more.
On the dessert topic, there are three notable items on the menu, said Hussein. One is a white chocolate soufflé. Another is halvah blended with tahini, lemon, organic milk and cinnamon. This is topped with walnuts and hazelnuts after a flash in the oven.
Organic figs are a third dessert with a sauce made from reduced butter and creme Anglaise. These are stuffed with puffs of house-whipped cream and juicy walnuts.
Menus are underway. For now, generally speaking, mezze are under $9 and seafood ranges from $15 to $18. Fish entrees are charged by the pound at market, roughly in the $25 to $30 range.
Hussein estimates that four guests can have a filling meal for under $110. Paella and other family-style dishes are designed to do just that, said the co-owner.
Hussein said the balance between kitchen and customer service will come from a hands-on approach from its owners.
He vowed, “One of our partners is always in the kitchen. One of them will always be around to buy the product personally. We choose the fish personally. You’ll personally see two of us always in the restaurant. It’s the only way to assure great food and service.”
Seabass Taverna can be found at 365 New Dorp Lane, New Dorp, 718-247-0900; seabasstaverna.com.
<<< Scroll down for a tour of the restaurant. >>>>>
The bar is one of the first striking visuals when entering the restaurant. It features an inventory fit for craft cocktails and sophisticated mocktails, the latter a format popular in the owners’ Brooklyn restaurants. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Tables feature a runner down the middle, a nod to a classic Mediterranean meal setting at home. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Guests can dine at the bar or at one of the high-top tables in the lounge area. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
The bar features several seats. This view features a partition that separates the dining area from the lounge. It is in a corner of the restaurant with a booth and long table for dining with about 12 guests. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
The Seabass Taverna design scheme mirrors its kitchen craft — a fresh fish and sea emphasis with Turkish and Greek flavors that marry Mediterranean regional cooking. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
One side of the restaurant features a banquette that allows large or small parties. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Despite the continual reflection on the ocean, there are landlubber items like steak and vegetable-centric dishes. This storefront has been a seafood destination for about a decade as Shaking Crab and Chikurin restaurants. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Now a look at the food. With eggplant bountiful at early fall harvests, the aim is to preserve it. This image features a ring of dried, olive-oil poached eggplants stuffed with vegetables and centering a dried bell pepper. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Shrimp come in a coating of extra-virgin olive oil. To the right is an octopus salad. Here’s a sneak peek. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Fish such as sea bass and red snapper are broken down to fillet and cooked to order. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Prawns chill on ice. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Octopus salad has a lime flavor woven into its vinaigrette marinade. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Fish are on display until they’re sent to the kitchen. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Clams can be cooked or served on the half shell. Here’s a sneak peek. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Fava bean cakes are a savory treat. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Along with the European fare comes a selection of European wines. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
The tables are set for mezze — small plates under $9 — and larger entrees that average $25. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Some of the kitchen craft includes a salmon cured in salt and sugar, flavored with fresh fennel. The process takes a few days to result in a pleasant gravlaax sensation enhanced by freshly pressed olive oil. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
All the food, including bread and desserts, are made from scratch. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Service is sit-down but guest are free to check out the display case of daily specials at the back of the restaurant. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
At the back of the restaurant is a refrigerated display case. Here in the front are veggie-based, seasonal dishes like the one on the right — leeks, cabbage and carrot. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Ceviche are macerated bits of seafood that are “cooked” by an introduction of citrus like lime juice. This preparation includes seabass, diced peppers and onions coated in a light olive oil dressing to be served chilled. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Part of the vibe includes a down-home feel where guests become friends and well-acquainted with the restaurant after many visits to a dining room with a living room-like sensibility. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Salt and pepper grinders are part of the table set up for guests. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestri
Pamela Silvestri is Advance/SILive.com Food Editor. She can be reached at silvestri@siadvance.com.