Ask a tourist to ID a bistro in Paris, and they’ll probably point to somewhere with a zinc bar, tiled floor, chalkboard menu, and a chain-smoking waiter guarding the entrance. Ask a Parisian, and they’ll push you in the opposite direction. Forget the myth of every corner bistro serving a life-changing French onion soup. Most of those old-school spots are tourist traps, and they often have menus full of store-bought, industrial beef bourguignon and steak tartare.
But great bistros do exist—you just need to know where to look. For each spot turning out soulless escargots, there are time warps making outstanding steak frites, and neo-bistros plating za’atar-dusted sweetbreads and vegetarian-friendly croques on ceramic plates. Whether you’re looking for a classic or a more modern spin, this guide is the path to the crème de la crème.