French wine can be a little intimidating and you could be forgiven for thinking you need an intimate knowledge of the “terroir”, the region, the chateau, the winemaker or the grapes themselves before even reaching for a corkscrew.
Chris Cassell, owner of Must and Lees wine shop and tasting room in Islington, North London, understands why.
“The majority of French wines are named after the region where the grapes are grown,” he explains, “and therefore the name of the grape, or grapes, which make the wine aren’t always mentioned on the bottle, so consumers are expected to know all of that just from the association with place.”
That’s why Cassell advises that when you come across a wine you like, note the label to inform future purchases and increase your knowledge of regionality and taste expectations.
And don’t always be drawn to the more user-friendly New World reds because drinkers in the UK are well placed to explore French wine with confidence.
“There are far fewer bad French red wines in the UK than the country they’re made in,” reveals Cassell. “That’s because they’ve usually gone through more filters from importers, distributors, retailers etc and with that in mind, it’s rare you’ll get a wine you won’t drink, perhaps just not to your preference.
“The red wines of Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône Valley dominate the market when looking at premium to luxury red wines, but you’ll find all quality levels across all regions of France.”
So, with this advice ringing in our ears, we spoke to buyers and connoisseurs and set out on a journey of discovery through the world of Le Vin Rouge, taking in the high-profile French regions, as well as some of the lesser-known locations, which are all turning out really good reds.
Best French red wines at a glance
Best overall: Léon Perdigal Lirac 2021 – £13.99, MajesticBest for winter warming: Chateau La Diligente Puisseguin Saint-Emilion 2018 – £16.99, Virgin Wines Best for pairing with vegetarian food: ASDA Extra Special Cóte De Beaune Villages – £17, AsdaBest for the Xmas table: Sainsbury’s Gamay, Taste the Difference 75cl – £9, Sainsbury’sBest for easy evening drinking: Château Capendu La Comelle Corbières – £7.99, Waitrose Best for pairing with food: M. Chapoutier ‘Belleruche’ Côtes du Rhône 2020/21 – £12.99, MajesticBest value for money: Calmel & Joseph Organic Pinot Noir – £12,99, WaitroseBest for BBQs: Pigmentum Malbec, Cahors Georges Vigouroux – £12.91, Great Wine Best for the cheese board: M&S Collection Margaux 75cl – £24, Ocado
We uncorked, unscrewed, smelled, glugged and slurped our way through a host of excellent wines, but, it was the red that bore the name of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate’s original Cellar Master, that really stood out.
According to wine lore, the man himself had a reputation for a commitment to quality, and this is celebrated in the Léon Perdigal Cotes du Rhône, which is a belter of a bottle, with the subtle Grenache harmoniously meeting the more structured Syrah on the palate.
The forest fruits and spicy tones made for silky supping and we found it was particularly suited to be drunk with big meaty dishes. Representing great value for money, we would have no hesitation serving this up to guests or making it a Saturday treat you can look forward to all week.