Rafael draws on the western and eastern regions of the Mediterranean for its menu.
Rafael
Mediterranean restaurants are not exactly rife on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, so the recent addition of Rafael adds measurably to the neighborhood’s increasing diversity. Chef Rafael (Rafi) Hasid of 6R Hospitality Group waves a wide hand over the Mediterranean region, after success with Miriam in Park Slope and a branch on the Upper West Side.
Along with Executive Chef Francisco Da Silva Rosa , he has fashioned a menu at Rafael that borrows from Provence, Italy, Lebanon and Israel, and the best way to appreciate it all is to bring friends and share everything placed before you.
Several dining areas of different size allow for intimacy or communal sharing g.
Rafael
Rafael is set within a landmarked two-story townhouse that was previously an Italian restaurant, and architect Amanda Sullivan has designed a front room done with olive wood tables and colors of blue and gold; down a staircase you find curved banquettes and tiled bar. On the mezzanine level, up a winding staircase, is a small, intimate room with two large circular tables ideal for family-style or communal mezze sharing, as well as a charming nook overlooking the street. The main room has large windows and a curved fresco-secco wall as a showcase for regional objets d’art.
The service staff is terrifically amiable and helpful with some of the more unfamiliar dishes, and they’ll advise as to portion size for sharing. Our table of four ate ravenously and still took a lot home.
Grilled octopus is cuddled in beans and savory spices.
Rafael
There are both appetizers and mezze on the menu, and among the former, the lentil and vegetable soup is warming and hearty on this bleak winter nights. In a city where octopus seems on every menu, the version at Rafael takes on novel dimensions via roasted sweet potato, sautéed arugula, caper berries and chermoula sauce. There is, of course, fresh, warm pita bread to top, push and scoop everything on your plates.
Clearly you could make a meal of appetizers and mezze, including muhammara of roasted peppers mashed with walnuts, pomegranate and a swirl of molasses. Goat’s cheese is blended in with white beans, Kalamata olives and a sweet-tart tomato confit. There are several more, including baba ghanoush and tzatziki. Since the entrees are expensive, apps, soup, salads and mezze are a more moderate way to go.
But the entrees––in generous portions that lend themselves to sharing–– offer some of the best items on the menu, starting with impeccably roasted chicken with mashed potatoes, glazed carrots, and a za’atar-seasoned butter sauce. A large striped bass didn’t look very pretty on the plate but, with carrots, shallots, cherry tomatoes and a wine and butter sauce adding to the sweet flesh and the crispy, edible skin, but it was delicious.
Lamb shank comes with noodles and rice in a sumptuous portion
John Mariani
The lamb shoulder spent a good long time simmering away in its well-spiced braising liquid, served over rice and noodles, with pine nuts, raisins and tomato; a bone-in short rib was similarly long cooked to a fall-from-the-bone tenderness, served with Brussels sprout, shiitakes and a sweet pomegranate glaze. The sweet and sour elements are key to Mediterranean food, along with a little kick of heat.
You need at least two forks to finish the chocolate torte at Rafael.
John Mariani
There is also a puzzling corn schnitzel on the menu, which turned out to be crispy flattened corn cakes atop mashed potatoes and an Israeli salad. They went with everything else on the table.
Traditional desserts all get a hint of the Mediterranean, as with a tahini brûleé with its caramelized crust, and a cardamon spice torte with lush crème anglaise.
Our party arrived around 7:30 with the place already close to full, and a lot of people were clearly from around the neighborhood, some already becoming regulars. They may not have ordered as lavishly as our party––we were still busy eating when the place began to empty out around nine––but most took food home, and Rafael does a brisk take-out business. The place has caught on fast––a relief from so many so-so Italian, sushi restaurants and burger bars in the neighborhood. With its warm welcome, Rafael is certainly a familial place, and after just three months it seems to be headed for a long tenure in this lovely townhouse.
Appetizers at dinner are $ 16-$28; main courses $41-$54.
RAFAEL
973 Lexington Avenue
646-918-7971
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.