Chef Rob Tabone knows from experience how the pandemic changed the restaurant labor model.
“The model of what is scalable and possible changed,” says the Jacksonville native. “It became pretty clear that people weren’t going to be dumping millions of dollars into restaurants like they were before.”
In the decade he’s been in New Orleans, Tabone has worked for Donald Link’s restaurant group, BRG Hospitality and a mom-and-pop spot, The Joint barbecue restaurant in Bywater. Then he had his own pop-up, Wood Duck, at Anna’s in the Marigny for a year.
Patula
Where
619 Royal St.; @patulanola on Instagram
When
lunch and dinner Wed.-Mon.
How
dine-in
Check it out
a casual cafe and wine spot in the French Quarter
With the December opening of Patula, a charming café and wine bar in the French Quarter, Tabone believes he’s created a sustainable restaurant. It’s a lean operation, with just Tabone, his sous chef Andrew Guidry and the bar manager, Aaron Dexter. Guests order at the counter and food and drink are delivered to the table.
“We’re like carpenters,” he says. “We are trying to build a pretty chair, but we still have to be able to sit in it. It’s a balance.”
Located at 619 Royal St., Patula is adjacent to the Krewe flagship store, whose partners own the complex. Tabone did some catering parties for the luxury eyeglass brand in the courtyard, so when they were looking for a permanent tenant, he was first in line.
The space formerly held Royal Blend coffee shop and a restaurant called Marigold. Patula’s gorgeous brick courtyard is a respite from the bustle of Royal Street, and the flagstone patio has a scattering of tables and inviting seating areas. Inside, there’s local art along with nosegays of dried marigolds hanging upside down on the walls.
The restaurant’s name, Patula, refers to its predecessor. Patula is the second part of the Latin name for marigold.
Patula’s bottle list features all biodynamic wines from small producers. Some of the lesser known finds include Florez Wines’ Kind of Orange from Mendocino, California, and imported Conestabile Della Staffa sangiovese. There are a few cocktails on the menu, including a vesper, an espresso martini and a smattering of beer and cider. This is a perfect place to sit, sip and kibbitz with friends, and dogs are welcome.
Between the small dining room and courtyard, there’s room for 45 guests to enjoy coffee and pastries from Ayu Bakehouse in the morning. The focus later shifts to wine and Tabone’s succinct menu of shareable nibbles.
There’s always a cheese plate and a Caesar salad that sets a high bar with meaty boquerones. Tabone promises the best onion dip you’ve ever tasted, using a recipe from his sous chef. It’s served with Zapp’s chips. A plate of tinned seafood comes with house-made pickles and Calabrian chili.
The Patula sandwich is Parisian ham with celery root remoulade on an Ayu baguette. There’s Moroccan-spiced meatballs with yogurt and a half pound serving of sliced tenderloin au poivre, a good addition to the salad for two to share. They will add a case of grab-and-go options in the near future.
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For now, Patula’s hours are 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. every day but Tuesday. But Tabone will stay open until the last bottle of wine is finished.
“I want people to take their time, not feel rushed,” he says.
Tabone credits chef Kelly Fields, with whom he worked at Willa Jean, for helping him understand the business side of running a restaurant.
“We lost a generation of chefs and mentors during the pandemic to other jobs and industries,” Tabone says. “People were promoted to roles they weren’t ready for, myself included. Now, I’m ready.”