Rhone Valley vineyards in France
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During past months I sampled the following red, rosé, white and sparkling French wines from four different wine regions: Provence, the Rhone Valley, Bordeaux and Languedoc-Rousillon. The whites are generally crisp and most reds are rich. This is the season of the harvest lunch—where long tables are placed in vineyards and big groups dine together to celebrate the end of days spent picking grapes. All these wines will pair well with food, whether or not at a long afternoon outdoor meal.
Rhone Valley
Clairmont. Crozes-Hermitage. 2023. 90+ points.
100% Marsanne grapes in this white wine. Jumping jammy aromas of marmalade, limes and even coconut. A medium bodied wine with an oily mouth feel and creamy flavors. Not complex but an easy drinking, late afternoon 12% alcohol wine. Pair with poultry or scallops.
Domaine des Pentelines. Clara. AOP Côtes du Rhône. 2023. 94-95 points
Named after the wife of the winemaker and renowned French sailor (and leader of the America’s Cup Orient Express sailing team), this 50/20/20/10 blend of Clairette/Marsanne/Roussanne/Ugni Blanc shares characteristics typical of Famille Kandler wines—textured, edgy and succulently deep and satisfying flavors. Sparky, zesty citrus aromas with a slight bulge of fat. Aged only in stainless steel, this is rounded and rich on the nose, and includes stunning flavors. A succulent rich and suave beauty—think hyper honey from a Sémillon wine, but even deeper in flavor. Pair this with a honey marinated duck breast tossed on a fiery grill.
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Bordeaux
Fourcas-Dupre. Parfaitment Sauvignon. Bordeaux AOC. 2023. 95+ points.
100% Sauvignon Blanc wine. A butter and honey set of initial aromas, with slight caramel, mango, lime and salt. Zesty and ocean fresh acidity. Magnificent mid palate that is soaked with richness and layered flavors—crème brulee, toffee coated apples, saltwater taffy and buttered toast. This is a winner that will make you twist the bottle, eye the label and nod with approval before pouring another glass. A white with the complexity and structure of many fine red wines. Serve with a pot of mussels, or with swordfish slathered in olive oil or a rice pilaf with mango chutney. Testimony to the quality of white wines from Bordeaux.
Famille Le Grix de La Salle. Le Grand Verdus. Les Petites Bulles. Pet Nat. Blanc de Noirs. Vin de France. 90+ points.
From Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux. This 12% alcohol wine is colored light orange and includes aromas of red cherries and shortbread. A lively mouthful of light flavors and bubbles. Pair with a dessert bowl of fruit.
Pavillon de Trianon. Blanc Sec. AOC Bordeaux. 2023. 91 points.
Crispy acidic aromas of tropicals that include lime, as well as green grass. A juicy and well made wine with an oily mouth feel and invigorating acidity and a length that keeps on giving. Pair with shrimp and lime juice or a salad that includes sliced mandarins and goat cheese. Somewhat linear but engaging.
Village of Bourg sur Gironde, Bordeaux, France
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Tutiac Vignerons. Les 18 Bizuts. 2023. 92+ points
From 18 winemakers pooling efforts for the Tutiac group, this 12.5% alcohol red wine includes Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Purple colored at the rim. Aromas include red plums and strawberries and a smoky smell of duck l’orange fresh from the oven or a winter chocolate cake that includes nutmeg. An easy attack with a full, hearty, somewhat thrilling mid palate that is layered, kicking with flavors of mandarin, fudge, black cherries and mint. An engaging and lively wine with firm but creamy tannins. Pair with a smorgasbord or with a stew. Made by a group, and should be shared with a group at a festive afternoon meal.
Fabrice Papin. L’Esperance. Malbec. 2022. 94+
100% Malbec from northern Bordeaux. Billowing aromas of hickory, blackberry, prunes, red cherries, wet granite, forest fire smoke and a smorgasbord of opulent and succulent flavors. The tannins are firm and consolidated, the acidity is gripping but mild. Pair with beef bourguignon or a blueberry tart dessert. Seriously seductive. This bottle will vanish quickly.
Le Petit Marand. Une Histoire de Grenache. IGP Atlantique. 2021. 91+ points.
Also from Fabrice Papin, a popping set of initial aromas with red plums, red cherries, boysenberries and country lane scents in this 13.5% alcohol wine. A light set of mid palate flavors that begin weak but grow in strength and grace—raspberries, prunes, cinnamon and even nutmeg on the finish. Light and cheery—think Grenache meets Beaujolais. Pair with rich and different foods—roasted quail or haloumi cheese.
Le Bout du Monde. Grand Vin de Bordeaux. 2018. 93-94 points.
From winemaker Stephane Renie—rich aromas of blueberries and hazelnuts and in the mouth soft and creamy tannins over a silky mid palate of red cherries. Slight menthol on the finish. Firm tannins. Complex and engaging. Winemaker Renie notes, “I prefer less concentrated but always well balanced. Not too much acidity.”
Bordeaux vineyard, France
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Château Montrevel. Grand Vin de Bordeaux. 2022. 93 points.
This 100% Merlot includes spright and jammy aromas that include marmalade. Full fruit bomb flavors of blackberries and dark plums mid palate with an edgy finish of raspberry. Full bore succulence and lean tannins. Consider pairing with cous cous and soy or with grilled beef.
L’Escalier au Ciel. Grand Vin de Bordeaux. Malbec. 2020. 94 points.
Another Bordeaux Malbec, this time from Stephanie Renie. Lively aromas of black peppers and pimente d’espelete spice from the Basque country of France, as well as dark plums, cedar and Dutch dorp licorice. Full rounded profile in the mouth with coherent and meaty but also soft flavors that include red prunes mid palate and slight cumin on a fiery finish. Succulent tannins. Winemaker Renie admits this is his baby.
Provence
Domaine Saint Andrieu. Côtes de Provence. 2022. 94 points.
A light lime colored wine made from the Rolle grape. A varied and rich set of aromas that include limes, lemongrass, cocoa milk and flint. A full and rich mid palate with a bedazzling length; mid palate flavors include peanut brittle, pineapple, guava. Complex, rich and well balanced. Acidity is buoyant and the finish is tingling and verging on spicy. Pair with sashimi or a salad with goat cheese, sliced grapefruit segments, rocket, honey and croutons.
Vineyard in Languedoc-Roussillon. France
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Languedoc-Rousillon
Château Tourril. Panatella. AOC Minervois. 2022. 94 – 95 points.
An 80/20 Syrah/Grenache blend named after a long and thin cigar. Beautiful rounded fruit aromas that include heft and power. In the mouth this wine has structured and elegant tannins and billows with fruit—blueberries, dark plums. Textured and slightly smoky with some balsamic on the finish. Beautifully balanced. Easy drinking pleasure for a long afternoon lunch with roasted chicken and rich cheeses.
Château Tourril. Livia. AOC Minervois. 2022. 96 points.
This pure Syrah from a renowned vintage includes crisp, textured, edgy, dark, powerful aromas—quite the enticing brew. Powerful but approachable crunchy flavors of rich fruit. Includes silky, creamy tannins. Delicious. As winemaker Stephan Kandler says: “The Minervois Guinness. It feeds you.” Pair this wine from ancient Gallo-Romaine site with garden grilled magret du canard duck breast. Classic.