Diners were served a tasting menu direct from the kitchen door, with the chance to learn something of the passion that had gone into the food.

It proved so popular that the family-run restaurant installed an awning and heaters to create a Winter Garden – with a handful of tables for diners snuggled under rugs and heaters.

On our Friday visit we were ushered through the low-lit Parisian-style restaurant to a rear door, and quickly settled ourselves in.

Patron was opened a decade ago by opened seven years ago by Anglo-French couple Jean-Francois and Tanzi.Patron was opened a decade ago by opened seven years ago by Anglo-French couple Jean-Francois and Tanzi. (Image: Courtesy of Patron)

Wearing warm jumpers we were perfectly cosy and ready to enjoy the latest expansion for this neighbourhood gem, which was opened a decade ago by Anglo-French couple Jean-Francois and Tanzi and in 2022 expanded into the empty vape shop next door.

The closure of nearby Kentish Town tube station for nigh on 18 months hasn’t dented its popularity with both locals, and Londoners willing to cross town for the cocktails and Gallic gastronomy.

In truth they serve superior French comfort food, the kind of home style bistro cooking you remember from childhood holidays across the channel, done impeccably.

Patron serves up brilliant cocktails and superior French bistro cooking such as my boeuf bourguignon on the bone.Patron serves up brilliant cocktails and superior French bistro cooking such as my boeuf bourguignon on the bone. (Image: Courtesy of Patron)

With just six starters, five mains and four desserts, everything is on point.

Happily they don’t try to reinvent the wheel; snails in garlic butter, a rich baked Saint Marcellin cheese with truffle honey; a French onion soup of flavoursome sweetness topped with a cheesy pastry lid; a steak tartare; and a pate – forest mushroom with candied walnut were the options.

Both the cheese and the soup were pitch perfect fare for a chill winter evening.

Mains include confit duck and moules a la creme. My short rib boeuf bourguignon slid off the bone, a richly flavoured, generous portion studded with tiny mushrooms and onions, shredded lardons and whole carrots.

Confit duck is among the options fo rmains.Confit duck is among the options fo rmains. (Image: Courtesy of Patron)

Order the spectacular gratin dauphinois on the side and it might feed two, however we had also summoned a beautifully cooked onglet steak, which arrived medium rare with rustling crispy French fries and truffle butter.

A glass of big hearted Syrah accompanied the meaty mains. Before that I’d enjoyed a pretty pink Napoleon cocktail, Courvoisier, Peach lemon and vintage cremant rose, which trod the right line between sweet and sour, unlike it’s namesake.You can enjoy cocktails in the lounge that links the two shops on Fortess Road.You can enjoy cocktails in the lounge that links the two shops on Fortess Road. (Image: Patron)

For dessert we moved into the quirky speakeasy style parlour, the choices are simple; a classic creme brulee, a cheese with fig jam, poached pear with creme fraiche, or, my choice, the divinely rich and moreish ‘Grandmere’s chocolate mousse’ brought to the table in a large ceramic bowl and dolloped onto your plate.

For old time’s sake I ordered what’s usually an aperitif, Pineau des Charentes which, along with our big French hug of a three course dinner, brought back happy memories of French holidays.

Patron Restaurant is at 26, Fortess Road, NW5.

 

 

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