Although still hardly a household name even in its domestic market, late-ripening Durif has proved well-adapted to the warm, dry, Mediterranean-style climate of Riverina. As climate change accelerates a move by Australian producers to embrace grapes that can not only survive but thrive in hot, dry conditions, the country’s Durif harvest more than doubled between 2015 and 2020 alone. Today Riverina accounts for about three quarters of Australia’s total Durif plantings.
“Durif just suits this area,” says James Ceccato of Berton Vineyard. “It handles the heat very well” in the vineyard, while in the glass “it’s probably not as juicy as Shiraz but it certainly has the tannin.” Ceccato also draws a distinction with the Durif expression typically produced in Rutherglen, another major hub for this variety. “It’s not as big as Rutherglen,” Ceccato suggests, describing Riverina Durif as “more subdued, a little more elegant.”
Durif may be on the rise, but if Riverina does already spark recognition among wine lovers for a particular style, then it’s likely to be the region’s deliciously sweet botrytis Semillon. Once again, the De Bortoli family was a pioneering force, with Deen’s son Darren inspired to experiment after tasting a Sauternes during his oenology studies.
De Bortoli’s first vintage of Noble One was 1982, and since then the wine has acquired near celebrity status, a position confirmed when then-prime minister Kevin Rudd gave a case to Pope Benedict to commemorate his 2009 visit to Australia. If you were seeking divine inspiration for your next wine adventure, then this could just be it.