The dishes were gorgeous, from the curry-scented lobster Malabar to the majestic, pastry-domed truffle soup. But many of those pulling out phones during dinner at this grand Uptown mansion were snapping photos of the chefs circulating between the tables rather than the food.
They were, after all, among the most famous and acclaimed chefs in the U.S. with global reputations to match. They graciously worked the rooms, visiting tables to shake hands, listen to stories eagerly shared of meals at their restaurants through the years, and pose for photos.
Daniel Boulud snaps a photo with his friend Thomas Keller (center) and attendees of the host committee dinner for Bocuse d’Or Americas in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
There was Thomas Keller, known for his Napa Valley restaurant French Laundry and Per Se in New York, calling across one bustling room to his good friend Daniel Boulud, perhaps the best-known French chef working in the U.S., recruiting him for a group photo with a New Orleans couple.
Emeril Lagasse soon joined them too, along with Jérôme Bocuse, the chef who continues the legacy of his father Paul Bocuse, the revered godfather of modern French cuisine.
One part of that Bocuse legacy was the reason the chefs were lending their star power for one big night in New Orleans, and why we’ll be seeing more like it in the city.
The event was part of a bigger effort with the potential to boost New Orleans’ standing on the global culinary stage, and elevate a key piece of the city’s culture and economy along the way.
Chefs convene, hosts prepare
The evening was a dinner to launch the host committee for Bocuse d’Or Americas, held at the home of attorney John Houghtaling, the historic Romanesque Revival mansion on St. Charles Avenue. It was a fundraiser in support of Team U.S.A., which represents the nation in the international culinary competition Bocuse d’Or, and to support the return of that prestigious event to New Orleans in 2026.
At this grand Romanesque Revival mansion on St. Charles Avenue, the red carpet is rolled out for guests of the Bocuse d’Or host committee dinner. (Photo by Darryl Schmitt Photography)
Rooms inside the St. Charles Avenue mansion are set for a host committee dinner for the Bocuse d’Or Americas in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
Bocuse d’Or was created by Paul Bocuse in the 1980s, along with the closely related Coupe de Monde de la Patisserie, or Pastry World Cup. They’ve grown into one mega event, held every two years in Lyon, France, and together they’re regarded as the world cup of cuisine. They stoke the same pride and passion as sporting world cups; reputations are minted in their winners’ circles; they’re covered closely by international media and draw big sponsorships and industry money.
Team USA, including lead chef Stefani De Palma, commis Bradley Waddle and coach Sebastian Gibrand, compete during Bocuse d’Or, known as the World Cup of cuisine, held at Sirha Lyon food trade show in Lyon, France. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
Chefs with Team Japan celebrate after winning the gold medal at Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie, the Pastry World Cup, held at Sirha Lyon food trade show in Lyon, France. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
Media and fans pack the stands for the Bocuse d’Or chef competition in Lyon, France.. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
They’re much lesser known in the U.S., but that is changing. To compete in the finals, national teams must qualify in preliminary rounds. Last year, the qualifiers for countries in North America and South America were held in the U.S. for the first time, and the host city was New Orleans.
To bring the first competitions here, New Orleans & Co., the city’s tourism sales and marketing agency, worked with GL Events, the same French-based production giant that helped orchestrate the Paris Olympics. In January, they announced that New Orleans would again host the qualifier round for Bocuse d’Or and the Pastry World Cup in 2026.
Planning is underway, and this dinner, held in February just after the Super Bowl, was one of the first moves. The aim was to begin marshaling support among philanthropists and restaurant industry insiders who will help support the event’s return next year. The dinner brought in $150,000 toward that goal.
Chefs (from left) Emeril Lagasse, Daniel Boulud, Thomas Keller and (right) Jerome Bocuse listen as host John Houghtaling speaks at a host committee dinner for the Bocuse d’Or Americas at his home in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
Posing for a photo during a host committee dinner for Bocuse d’Or Americas are (from left) Jerome Bocuse, Franco Valobra, Alon Shaya, Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, Irvin Mayfield and host John Houghtaling. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty)
Houghtaling has long been campaigning to get Bocuse d’Or to come to New Orleans. He is friends with chefs Keller, Boulud and Bocuse, who are on the board of Ment’or, the group that supports Team U.S.A. Traveling to Lyon to attend the Bocuse d’Or finals through the years, he recognized its potential to shine a brighter global spotlight on the New Orleans culinary scene, and elevate the work of local chefs guiding it.
“It was a huge honor to have Bocuse come here, and it’s a huge responsibility,” Houghtaling said. “Hopefully, people in the business and people who care about food will see what an honor this is, and as a city, we can keep it coming back here.”
A roster of chefs
At the host committee dinner, while the celebrity chefs worked the rooms around the mansion, the kitchen was a hive of energy as a roster of local and visiting chefs cooked together.
Chefs (from left) E.J. Lagasse, Chris Nye and Arvinder Vilkhu work together in the kitchen at the home of John Houghtaling during a host committee dinner for Bocuse d’Or Americas in New Orleans. (Photo by Darryl Schmitt Photography)
That included Justin Devillier, of La Petite Grocery and Justine; Ashwin Vilkhu, who with his family runs Saffron NOLA and the forthcoming restaurant The Kingsway; Baruch Rabasa, a private chef and creator of the Applied Arts Coffee brand; E.J. Lagasse, who leads his family’s flagship Emeril’s Restaurant and co-founded their modern Portuguese spot 34 Restaurant & Bar; and pastry chef Kristyne Bouley.
They also cooked with Chris Nye, executive chef at Soigne Hospitality, the Minneapolis-based restaurant group led by the Gavin Kaysen, who is president of Team U.S.A. and a Bocuse d’Or competitor from the 2007 campaign.
Chefs who took part in a host committee dinner for Bocuse d’Or Americas in New Orleans included (top row, from left) Ashwin Vilkhu, Kristyne Bouley, Baruch Rabasa, Emeril Lagasse, Jerome Bocuse and Chris Nye and (bottom row from left) Daniel Boulud, Thomas Keller and E.J. Lagasse. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
The meal was lavish and carefully composed. As a finale, trumpeter Irvin Mayfield led a performance in the center of the house.
At one point, Keller addressed the crowd, explaining his own passion for Bocuse d’Or. He sees America’s pursuit of the competition as a point of inspiration for today’s chefs, and the next generation coming behind them. Keller, himself often credited with transforming American fine dining a generation ago, said that inspiration could shape the future of American cuisine.
Chefs in New Orleans for the Bocuse d’Or and Pastry World Cup Americas selection gather at a reception at Arnaud’s Restaurant to sample local Creole cuisine prior to the international competition. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
New Orleans hosted the Bocuse d’Or Americas qualifier round in June 2024, which drew culinary talent and stars from around the world. Pictured during the competition are (from left) Florent Suplisson, director of Bocuse d’Or; Susan Spicer, Alon Shaya, Daniel Boulud, E.J. Lagasse, Nina Compton and Thomas Keller. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
New Orleans got a taste of what’s possible at this level last year with the first edition of the Bocuse d’Or qualifiers. For one week, the city was abuzz with international chefs, culinary enthusiasts and industry players. Still, it felt more like an introduction of a new concept than a full embrace of what it could be.
As New Orleans burnishes its culinary reputation, and its draw as a travel destination, the potential to go bigger, do more and showcase the city as a top global food city is coming around again as Bocuse d’Or Americas 2026 takes shape. The first steps are already simmering.