There are a few ways to interpret the name Bar Etoile, the latest culinary addition to Melrose Hill that opens today, October 29. Translated from French, the name simply means “star bar.” But dig a little deeper and diners may find that the new restaurant’s name is also a nod to Los Angeles’s entertainment industry, a wink to the biodynamic farming calendar, and a connection to Paris’s bistronomy scene.
“We were inspired by a lot of different places in Paris where there’s this great blend of high-level experience mixed with a more casual environment,” says co-owner Jill Bernheimer. “It’s not a nod to a specific place, but a nod to the names of the types of places that we enjoy.”
Behind Bar Etoile are first-time restaurateurs Bernheimer, who opened the seminal natural wine shop Domaine LA in 2009, partner Julian Kurland (formerly of Native, the Rose), and chef Travis Hayden (formerly of Rustic Canyon, Voodoo Vin). Together, the three are bringing a vibrant slice of contemporary Parisian dining culture to a 2,200-square-foot space designed by Lovers Unite that seats 65 in the main dining area and another 16 on the patio. Bernheimer and Kurland, who worked closely together at Domaine LA before partnering with Bar Etoile, didn’t initially plan on opening a full-fledged restaurant, but the expansive Western Avenue space convinced them otherwise. The pair had been searching for potential locations in the Larchmont Village area since 2019 before signing their current lease in 2022.
From left to right: co-owner Julian Kurland, chef Travis Hayden, and co-owner Jill Bernheimer.
The two-story building that houses Bar Etoile is one of 14 owned by real estate developer Zach Lasry in the neighborhood. “Zach was dedicated to keeping the character of the buildings and preserving them as they were decades and decades, if not a century-plus, ago,” says Bernheimer. Upgrades included seismically retrofitting the restaurant’s back wall, rebuilding the roof, removing plaster from the building’s facade, and exposing original brickwork and molding.
Both Bernheimer and Kurland live about a half-mile from the restaurant and look forward to welcoming Melrose Hill residents to Bar Etoile. The neighborhood has a majority Latine population and a history of predominantly HUD housing. “Whether it’s having a very affordable glass [of wine], making our menu feel like there’s value offered, or employing people from the neighborhood, we want people to be able to be our guests and to be part of our community, and for us to be part of the community,” says Bernheimer.
The welcoming spirit that Bernheimer hopes Bar Etoile embodies is inspired by Campanile’s legendary grilled cheese nights that ran through the late ’90s and early aughts. “There was this party-like atmosphere, there was table hopping, there was an amazing wine program, and a high level of service — but also this casual spin to it,” says Bernheimer. “That sort of atmosphere is something that always moves me and I haven’t seen it since then.” Bar Etoile is divided into “different zones” with a service bar in the center, which “allows the space to have that multifaceted format,” she says, whether perched on a barstool with a book, on a date with a loved one, or celebrating a birthday with friends.
After securing a much grander space than the simple neighborhood wine bar they initially envisioned, Bar Etoile’s owners reached out to Hayden to come on board following his departure from Voodoo Vin. “We subscribe to the same ethos of what we want to do for a restaurant and we became friends, which was really important, too,” says Hayden.
A research trip to Paris and London solidified their partnership and a shared vision for running the restaurant’s front- and back-of-house. “Mentorship is really important to Travis, and it’s really important to Jill and me,” says Kurland. “Education, openness, transparency, all these pillars of how we work and build a business.”
Bar Etoile serves two European-leaning menus: One has just bar bites, including spiced nuts, olives, and bread with cultured butter for patrons having a glass of wine or a martini, and another that is comprised of small and large plates. Hayden’s house-cured charcuterie, including rillettes, mortadella, and coppa, is available on both menus. The mortadella is made with Peads and Barnetts pork and is currently served with pickled celtuce.
Chef Travis Hayden previously cooked at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica and East Hollywood’s Voodoo Vin.
Hayden’s signature Caesar steak tartare, a dish the chef conceived as a special at Rustic Canyon and perfected at Voodoo Vin, also features on the menu. The slate of larger format dishes includes steak frites, ricotta gnocchi, and a whole rotisserie chicken served with root vegetables.
To drink, Bar Etoile serves small-production wines made from well-farmed grapes, including a range of styles from natural to more traditional. Wines from France dominate the list with notable appearances by California, Italy, Spain, and Eastern and Central Europe. Bar Etoile carries 150 to 200 bottles and aims to have a dozen or so pours by the glass available each evening. “We have three temperature-controlled fridges on the floor, so we want there to be a very visual aspect of the menu,” says Kurland. Served alongside wine is an array of classic cocktails, including variations on both gin and vodka martinis, Negronis, and a whiskey-based drink that riffs on an Old Fashioned.
The wine list includes a range of styles from natural to more traditional.
Martini.
Tequila gimlet.
Negroni.
Bringing Bar Etoile to life each service is a team of around 15 employees. Bernheimer did not disclose the hourly wage, but tips will be pooled and distributed evenly among all staff. Full-time employees receive health care benefits. “As much as we want to create a great experience for guests, we also all really feel strongly about the workplace environment also striking a supportive tone and having it be a place where people are excited to come work and learn and not burn out and just be a home for people,” says Bernheimer.
Polished but casual neighborhood restaurants are on the rise across the Southland. Bar Etoile joins the ranks of newly opened places like Montrose’s Backbone, Bar Sinizki in Atwater Village, and Belle’s Delicatessen in Highland Park that offer good food and drinks without fuss aimed at the local set. “Having a place where people feel comfortable to try new things, have that extra bottle, have that extra glass of wine, and have a fun, convivial atmosphere,” says Kurland. “That’s the vision for Bar Etoile.”
Trout rillettes, biquinho peppers, potato chips.
Kampachi crudo, ajo blanco, Ashmead’s Kernel apple, caviar lime.
Steak frites, Montpellier butter.
Rotisserie chicken, persimmon Béarnaise, apple salad.
Root vegetables, guajillo sabayon, fried dill.
Gruyere tart, yellow peach jam, chives.
“Having a place where people feel comfortable to try new things, have that extra bottle, have that extra glass of wine, and have a fun, convivial atmosphere,” says Kurland. “That’s the vision for Bar Etoile.”
Bar Etoile is located at 632 N. Western Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90004, and is open Tuesday through Sunday from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Sign up for the
newsletter
Eater LA