Wine, spirits, and cocktail offerings
There is no more wall of whiskies, rather stiff-but-elegant martinis and Toulouse native sommelier Patrick Thillard’s wine list, which is France-centric, of course, with some California. There are everyday drinking wines I dig here, like 2023 Pali Wine Co’s Orange Gewurztraminer from California’s Central Coast, next to Domaine Coteaux des Margots French pet-nat, bubbly and carafes of petit Chablis or Coté du Rhone reds.
Cocktails are straightforward classics but with some finesse, although I had to sub out Grey Goose for gin in my martini… I just couldn’t as vodka is not a “real,” OG Martini. Simple but refined touches like a house blend of French vermouths in the martini or clarified blackcurrant milk punch and brut champagne as an upgraded Kir Royale keeps cocktails a bit interesting.
Bon Delire endive salad. Photo by Virginia Miller.The culinary experience
The menu doesn’t push boundaries, but steps into unpopular territory these days: French food. This is classic French bistro fare with modern touches, but as the world rightly starts to discover the joys of cuisines and cultures they’ve too long ignored, French food has gone a bit out of vogue. Bouzidi and longtime Barcha and Sens chef Vernon Morales (who comes from major fine dining in NYC: Daniel, Le Bernardin) created the menu with chef Te’Sean Glass, who cooked at SF greats Saison and Angler, as well as José Andrés Group, and helms Bon Délire’s kitchen.
Bistro classics include steak frites, parmesan black truffle aioli fries, as well as lovely cheese and charcuterie plates, like oozing warm, oven-baked camembert with huckleberry jam, scooped up with fuji apples and crostini. Then understated but delightful surprises appear. I appreciate classic escargots soaking in trays cradling each snail in a pool of parsley garlic butter. Here, it’s a round plate with merely slight indentations, not deep pools, and a unique accent of shallot port marmalade.
Bon Delire escargots. Photo by Virginia Miller.
Mini-croque monsieur and croque madame (with egg on top) are smart, downsizing the rich grilled ham and cheese sandwich. Here, it’s Parisian ham and gooey Comté cheese at $10–12 and only $19 to add black shaved truffles. Salads shine, whether a crunchy endive salad marked with fourme d’ambert cheese, crisp pears and sweet candied walnuts, or uncommon these days dish of Leeks Gribiche: grilled, chilled leeks with chopped eggs and capers in a sherry vinaigrette.
“Le Burger” did us right, oozing Comté cheese, nicely medium-rare as we requested it, with a contrast of frisée, tomato confit and tarragon Dijonnaise on a housemade brioche bun. I dig classic sole Meunière, an uber-buttery fish partnered with spinach and slivers of almonds. I could have used more of the verjus, as the fish was so buttery, it begged for more acid to brighten up the dense browned butter. Next time I want to try the chicken speck croquettes.
Bon Delire’s “Le Burger .“ Photo by Virginia Miller.
My favorite dish was unexpectedly the rare oeufs mayonnaise, a deviled eggs dish filled with dungeness crab, cloaked in a mayo, lemon and Dijon mustard sauce, a drizzle of bright orange pimenton oil and caviar on top. I long ago burnt out on deviled eggs, thousands of versions later. This variation revives my craving.
Dessert lovers will crave the fluffy, moist pain perdu (French toast) with its gentle toast and mound of crème diplomat (equal parts pastry cream and unsweetened whipped cream). A classic Valrhona chocolate mousse highlights the French chocolate’s signature earthiness and depth with a touch of Maldon salt and extra virgin olive oil.
Bon Delire on the Bay. Photo by Virginia Miller.
Besides its quality French bistro fare, Bon Délire is blessed with a romantic space, Bayside setting on the water and sweet service. It also blessedly offers all day hours, weaving from lunch to mid-afternoon happy hour to dinner with European lingering ease. Sunday brunch serves many of the same dishes but adds fun like raclette omelettes and Quiche Lorraine.
Bon Délire may not break molds, but it comes from a smart team — and a talented young black chef — who are doing their damndest to make French bistro fare relevant again with unassuming ease.
// Pier 3, Suite 102, on the Embarcadero, www.bondeliresf.com
The Bold Italic is a non-profit media organization that’s brought to you by GrowSF, and we publish first-person perspectives about San Francisco and the Bay Area. Donate to us today.