Brighton is something of a contradiction when it comes to dining out. While the area is known for its beachfront homes and affluent residents, there aren’t many slick restaurants to match. The opening of Henrys in December signalled a sea change. Soon, the suburb will also be home to two new venues from chef Ian Curley: 81 Bay, a wine bar that opens on Tuesday April 29, and Baix, the adjoining fine diner that’s expected to open this winter.
Curley – co-owner of Hardware Lane’s French Saloon and Kirk’s Wine Bar, (and previously of The Point, The European and The Melbourne Supper Club) – is a Brighton local. “There are things happening [here] … but it’s most certainly not North Fitzroy or Northcote,” he says. With 81 Bay and Baix, his first venues outside the CBD, Curley hopes to bring something new to the neighbourhood.
Both venues are housed at the base of new luxury apartment building The International, and each has its own distinct character. 81 Bay is bistro-coded in looks and taste, with frilly half-height curtains, timber accents and a salty-snacky-hearty menu of olasagasti anchovy Gildas, steak frites, bone marrow toast, gnocco frito with manchego cream, crème brûlée and more.
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Baix opens, a 40-seat fine diner, will trade four days a week and have a three-course menu that changes every few weeks. For the launch, Curley is thinking about dishes centred around mushrooms and truffles. Both venues share a kitchen, headed by Felix Cheung (The Ledbury in London, Saga in New York City), Pamela Tomio (Lona Misa) and Paul Turner (La Madonna, Lover).
The wine list across both venues mixes European and local labels, along with a range of custom Baix-branded wines from Tasmanian winemaker Ghost Rock. The list is light on skin-contact varieties, which Curley says are a more quintessentially north-side style.
The south-side ethos also inspired the fine diner’s name, which is a play on the Bay Street location and a commune in southeastern France called Baix. “Brighton’s always been a bit of a commune,” jokes Curley. Who knows – residents of The International might start their own, as Baix offers a room service menu for the apartments above.
81 Bay
81 Bay Street, Brighton
03 9279 2820
Hours:
Tue to Sat 5pm–10pm
@81bay_baix