As a young teenager I was an obsessive fan of the Clash, and it was through Joe’s lyrics for the song ‘Washington Bullets’ on 1980’s Sandinista album that I first heard of the poet-singer Victor Jara and President Salvador Allende, two of the victims of the Chilean coup that brought Pinochet’s brutal dictatorship to power.
Strummer’s lyrics got me thinking about the politics and culture of countries like Nicaragua, Chile and Cuba from a young age, and opened my eyes to a wider world.
I’ve been interested in Chile and its culture and politics ever since and I vividly remember the first time I tasted Chilean wine in 1990 – Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon owned by Château Lafite (O’Briens stock it).
Around a quarter of the wine we drink in Ireland is Chilean but most of it is inexpensive Sauvignon, Cabernet and Merlot — reliable, tasty and remarkably consistent, but not always the most interesting wine to cover on this page.
Look above the bottom shelf of a good off-licence however and you will find Chile to be a much more diverse country with fine-boned Pinot Noir from Casablanca, herbal Syrah from Elqui, and old vine Carignan, Cinsault and Pais from lesser known valleys like Itata.
Marcus and Sebastian De Martino were in town recently and took us through some of their wines from Itata, a cool region 500 km south of Santiago first planted in the 1550s making it probably the oldest New World vineyard.
Bush vine, dry-farmed vineyards with ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines influenced by the cool Humboldt Pacific currents and tended by horses.
The De Martino family celebrates 90 years growing grapes this year and I recommend two of their Itata wines below. You will also find old vine wines of theirs from Maule and Cachapoal.
De Martino Ungrafted Muscat, Itata Valley, Chile €23-24
De Martino Ungrafted Muscat, Itata Valley, Chile €23-24
Matsons; World Wide Wines; Martins; McHughs; Redmonds; Barnhill Stores; Avoca
From Guarilihue in the South Valley of Itata and made from ungrafted old vines traditionally tended, manually worked vineyards, horses instead of tractors and proper sustainability.
Floral, bruised peach, citrus and tropical aromas, dry and textured with balancing acidity this lingers very pleasantly. Try with seafood or even on its own.
De Martino Ungrafted Muscat, Itata Valley, Chile €23-24
De Martino Ungrafted Cinsault, Itata Valley, Chile €23-24.
Matsons; World Wide Wines; Martins; McHughs; Redmonds; Barnhill Stores; Avoca
Cinsault vines are at their best after a couple of decades and this is a fine example of old vine Chilean Cinsault.
Dark ruby colour, charming ripe cherry and raspberry fruits, silky, fruity and taut with admirable purity and balance. De Martino’s Pais is a little fuller with a darker fruit character.
Pedro Parra,`Vinista` Itata Valley País 2021, Chile €25.99
Pedro Parra, `Vinista` Itata Valley País 2021, Chile €25.99
Blackrock Cellar; Donnybrook Fair; The Corkscrew; Avoca; GreenManWines.ie
Pedro Parra is best known as a soil expert but also makes wine from old bush vines on granite soils – part of the wave of producers reviving this wonderful wine region.
Red berry fruit aromas, juicy and ripe with balance, structure and saline acidity – delicious. Also watch for his slightly weightier Cinsault.
Flatley Irish Whiskey ‘The Dreamer’, 46% ABV, 70cl €45
Flatley Irish Whiskey ‘The Dreamer’, 46% ABV, 70cl €45
The Corkscrew; IrishMalts.com; Wine Centre; SuperValu Stores nationwide; flatleywhiskey.com
Every celebrity needs their own booze and good to see Michael Flatley team up with Master Blender Noel Sweeney late of Powerscourt Distillery and of course Cooley.
Distilled at the Great Northern Distillery this is a blend of 5 year bourbon-cask aged single malt and grain whiskeys, finished in Pedro Ximenez casks.
Honey and dried fruit aromas with a touch of cacao, soft on the attack with sweet lemon and exotic fruits – a peppery prickle finish, lingering spice and chocolate.